Gromit

Yep, there is a gasket there. It's straight forward to remove the selector housing from the gearbox. You may have to lower the gearbox or lift the seatbox to get at the 2 rear bolts. There's a selector yoke in the gearbox that the gear lever engages with. Just don't move it too far left or right or the reverse lever can disengage within the box.

Neither does mine and has been fine since I last replaced it 5 or so years ago.

I recently had something similar, when plugged in an incorrectly wired trailer. The side lights were wired to the stop lights in the trailer. With the side lights on, the engine wouldn't turn off. So it seems that dodgy light electrics can supply 12 to the stop solenoid, so maybe start hunting around there.

if you can get the nuts off (by cuting or other method) there's a single nut that retains the drive flange. Be prepared for some oil leakage when you remove the flange. There's a large circlip that retains the bolts to the flange. Just get replacement 8.8 bolts and locnuts from your local fastner shop. I think they are 3/8 BNC.

It's an irish thing :D

I inherited some on the wings, which is very useful. Could have done with some on the bonnet for roofrack access, but it's too late now as the bonnet is all bendy. The sills are a bit mangled from various offroad excursions, but they'll stay like that till I have the cash for some tree sliders. Recently added rear quarter panels to straighten out and (possibly) strenghten them. I've never had a rear door card. I'll probably put a chequer plate one on it at some point so I can mount stuff on it.

It's funny the different reactions you get from different people. My neighbour, everytime he sees me working on the truck in the driveway says "Have you it nearly fixed yet?" despite it being my daily driver. He thinks he's hilarious. He does vaguely try to engage in conversation about it, but you can see he doesn't get it. He's much happier with his A4. Just not a car person I suppose. By contrast, I've just dropped 4 band members home; first time they had seen the truck, and they just loved it, despite one of them asking me what make it was! Even a car-o-phobe loves a Land Rover. The 110 has been variously used to move me to France, camp around the Alps, commute 150 miles a day, explore off road, pull down 60 foot trees, trim hedges and of course educate its owner on all things mechanical while emptying his wallet. Despite the money spent on tweaking things, fixing things or just servicing it, I don't resent a single penny I've put into it. For the last few months while the truck was off the road, I've been driving a Cosworth Mercedes; by far the best drive I've had - a car that just wills you to floor it everywhere and clip every apex. I loved driving it. Now that the truck is back on the road, when I jump in it, I don't even look to see if the Cossie is still parked over in the car park. I do check the 110 is there every morning though. The shed that is the 110 is part of my life and I will never part with it.

really? Wonder if it sold. I have to say, it looked worse in the flesh than the pictures do justice to . Piece-de-resistance was the handpainted yellow springs.

Reconditioning a magneti marelli A127 Alternator

I was at a local car show yesterday. Growing up with The Fall Guy as a kid, I liked this Then there was this thing, which made me very sad. I'm sure at one point it was a nice series, not any more though.

That's the one, cheers Madcowz

If you were pulling the box apart to replace a synchro, it'd only make sense to overhaul to box completely. Have a look at this thread for a recent conversation on the topic.

if you go to this page and download the Defender 90 & 110 Workshop Maunual part 3 it explains how to reassemble the selector. Not that you need to do this, but it explains how to set the bias springs, which might help. Start on page 15/16 of the pdf

Was funny reading this morning though. Beer and forums are a bad combination

It is very handy. I have it on another machine that I'm having a palava with getting the motherboard replaced, so I've no access to it at the moment. I passed it around the forum a few times over the last few years so I'm sure someone could host it. It's about 20Mb from memory. I could do with it myself I think for your trip, I'd have a hardcopy of it just for a worst-case scenario as suggested above. (edited to add, that the parts cat would be useful to point at the pictures to your bush mechanic, whereas the workshop manual is lots and lots of text, with some diagrams)

I mainly just use the parts catalog in PDF form. Shows you where all the bits go and what to expect when pulling something apart. Plus, obviously, you have the part numbers for ordering replacements.

If you're quoting Ashcrofts, then that price is if you supply your own box for the recon.

From the Haynes: offside (right) sidelights are Red/Orange Horn is Purple/Black Interior light is Purple I think there are wiring diagrams in the workshop manuals that you can get online; I'll check now. I'm sure RAVE has them too. EDIT: Go here, under Defender, Workshop Manual Part 5 has a wiring diagram.

out of curiosity, what gearbox does the TD5 get? R380?

Heat until cherry red and allow to cool slowly. To be honest, given that the ridge on the washer compresses when you use them, it might be better just to get new washers.

Annealing the washers softens them to allow them to better conform to the mating surfaces, so better sealing the joint.

Yep, sounds like the PAS belt needs tightening. You should be able to turn the belt a 1/4 turn with your fingers. When levering the pump to tention the belt, be sure to lever on the pump bracket, rather than the pump body itself. If the belt is the correct tension, a dying pump can cause the belt to squeel.

I would say there's not much you can do other than change the oil and see what comes out. Sounds like 2nd gear synchro is worn. Does double clutching help? Could be a dragging clutch, but that'd affect all gears.

Only the top pin has shims.

I did the same, just undid the chassis side and then removed it altogether. (Be aware that the flipped joint may have squashed the brake pipe on the axle.)