Gromit

Congrats on the new addition. If you are sure it's not the wheel bearing, then it'll be the top or bottom swivel pins. The bottom is a taper bearing. The top is either a bearing or a railko bush. Mine's the same age as yours and has a railko bush. This is not adjustable so you'll have to replace it. It's not a difficult job. See the how to in the tech archive here

If this is of any use, it's a PDF of the defender 110 parts catalog, from 1987 on. It's 30MB Has part numbers and exploded diagrams. It's all I use for my truck. Covers: 2.5 petrol and diesel 2.5 TD 200 and 300tdi V8 Carb LT77/R380/LT85 Axles Suspension Vehicle and engine controls brakes Fuel/Exhaust/Cooling System Body Electrical and chassis Seats/Interior trim Accessories http://hobophoto.org/RTC9932CEunlocked.pdf

Had a similar conversation with my sister, who recently got a 110. After only 3 months of ownership, she has quickly realised that There's always something that isn't quite right, but you can live with it There's always something that needs to be fixed promptly. There's always something that can be improved/modified/added/removed No. 1 adds "character" until you fix it for the MOT. Then it usually breaks again. No. 2 stops most things on No.3 getting done.

Without a snorkel, you can only wade to a depth lower than the air intake on the wing. Go over this and the engine will suck and try to compress water, rather than air, with obvious results The maximum recommended wading height for a standard defender is to the top of the wheel rims. This assumes you are driving through it slowing, creating a bow wave in front of the truck; not hammering through it at 50mph

Yellow cap the same as above, on my 200. Dip stick is a sort of general oily colour.

Oi Henson, I resemble that remark. If I wasn't langered drunk, I'd come over and give you the kickin' of your life. Welcome all new members. There's mostly friendly on here, apart from Les, though he has his uses (allegedly)

As above, cup stucky, no goey inney. Anyway, I borrowed a pitman puller from my local mechanic, and it came off with a bit of a bang. Once off, I was able to press the cup fully home and got it all refitted last night

You can remove the rear prop and the handbrake drum, stick it in diff lock and drive about for a while and see if the noise disappears. Or you might see a bunch of crud fall out of the drum when you remove it, which would confirm your suspicions.

at a guess 1.5 to 2 litres.

There was a thread on this yesterday. If that doesn't help, I'll be measuring my beam (which just passed the test) to set up the lights on the other 110. Won't be for a few days though.

That's what I ordered. Also has 3 leg and bearing separator configurations. Was so impressed with the one I borrowed a while back that I decided to buy one as I'll always find a use for it on a LR. Not cheap mind. With a bit of luck I might have it by the weekend. Must remember to video the ensuing drama

I spent all Sunday trying to change the ball joint on the drop arm. Tried to get the arm off and didn't succeed. So went to do the ball joint in-situ. Went ok until trying to tap the new cup in. I can't get it all the way home. So now the arm needs to come off so I can try and press the cup in. No amount of beating and swearing will get the arm off. Also broke a standard puller. Have just ordered a hydraulic puller, so we'll see what that makes of it.

James, Have you checked basics like the fuel filter. Certainly sounds like it is being starved of fuel. Or a split in the fuel line that only opens under higher demand?

I just cruse at 70, with a roofrack on the 110. Hill or a headwind and I'm down to 60-65. 80mph? I thought that was a defender's terminal velocity in free-fall.

Mine's been playing similar games. Give the connector block on the door a wiggle and see what happens. Mine had a bunch of corrosion in it.

I recently got a Carrera kracken from Halfords, mainly because my local bike shop didn't have any cheaper bikes. I've been quite impressed with it. Ali frame, 27 gears, front suspension (which isn't bad), Sram gears which are good and cable disk brakes. The brakes are grand, if a little noisy in the wet. You can upgrade to hydraulics for about 100 quid per wheel, but I haven't felt the need as yet.

Perfect, thanks Ralph. I reckon that should do the trick. Sorry to hear of your t-box woes

Likewise. When fully home, the nuts have about 1/2 to 1 thread that is not on the stud, but never had one come loose.

Afternoon all, A while back I had a problem with the spill return banjos on the injectors working loose and throwing diesel about the place. Replacing the copper washers worked for a while but the problem is back The pipe assembly puts strain on the banjos eventually loosening them. I remember reading a while back that the pipe assembly was changed. Is this true? If so, I want to change to the later type. The only part no I can find is ERR3652. Is this early or late? Anyone have a part number for the redesigned type? Cheers muchly!

have you tried it with the transfer box in neutral?

I had vibration from about 55 - 60 felt through the steering wheel. Turned out to be the rear wheel bearings.

NCT actually, I'm in Ireland. €49 for normal punters. Free for me cause I work for them (And no, I don't get any pre-arranged passes) Yep, pic is of drum brakes and a driver member being lightly fettled with LR tool #2 Disks came in at the end of the 200tdi run.

So I was coming back home on my 2 hour commute last night when I got some pretty bad vibration. So much so, that I stopped twice to see have a look round the truck. It seemed to be coming from the front of the truck but nothing looked awry. Typical, as I had my test the next day. Got home in the dark and set about tracking down the vibration. It turned out to be both rear wheel bearings. 2 hours later, with some minor adjustment: they were good. Attacked the truck with the pressure washer, bled the brakes, adjusted the door lock, cleaned the muck out of the back of it and went to the pub after a long long day. This morning I ragged it up the motorway to warm it up, stopped just outside the test centre, wiped the swivel clean and headed in for the test. 4 guys poured over the truck. Initial comment was "you're leaking a bit of oil out of the swivel mate". They didn't find anything else though, and it passed B)

Yep, no problem.

30mm on my 91 110.