Gromit

Yep, simple as that. After refitting, don't open the bleed screw too much unless you like ATF fountains. I managed to empty the system all over the underside of the bonnet, front of truck, front of house and a passing dog.

It's pretty straight forward. Disconnect battery -ve Remove exhaust downpipe from the turbo (You can do the job with it on, but why make your life more difficult) Remove solenoid wire Remove main +ve feed/alternator etc. Remove 3 bolts/studs holding the starter. These can be tight and access is difficult. IIRC one needed a spanner, with another spanner to get leverage. The others needed combinations of short and long extensions on a ratchet. It's heavy and watch the brake lines when manoeuvering it out. It might be that the bendix is sticking, so that can be cleaned up. As for further refurbishment, I don't know.

Well with RAW, you can then produce what ever size of files you wish; just a bit if a pain post-processing them, if you're just taking a snap to throw up on the forum.

Oil for me. Lubricates better, easier to change than grease, allows for early detection of your swivel seal leaking and letting water in. I got that one shot from paddocks too, free with a kit. You can have mine if you want. Not definitive, just my preference

Yep, mines lifted with a roof rack, so quite high. Everyone thinks it's enormous About 5cm longer than the Dad's laguna and narrower I suspect.

On that point, I would always use oil. I reckon oil gets about much better than grease, and if it leaks, then there's water getting in and killing your CVs. Something which would not be as evident with grease.

110 as my daily driver for the last 6 or so years. I find the sedentary pace on the motorway relaxing, rather than trying to hammer down the road. Just turn up the radio As others have said, it's high and narrow, so round town is not a problem. The fact that the front of the truck ends where you see it, and that the mirrors are the widest point means you can place it accurately. Turning circle takes a bit of an adjustment to your driving, using all of the road to negotiate sharp corners. Where you really notice it, is the lack of lock when reverse parallel parking. Rear visibility, even without the spare wheel on the back isn't great (as vehicles are usually below you) and tipping a parked eurobox with a hitch and bumperettes on rear of a 110 is going to do a bit of damage. So despite not being overly long, you need a longish space to get into. Other than that, it's brilliant, plus you get to wave at other LRs

My trucks got around 225k miles on it. Original axles and LT77. Transfer box I believe was changed by previous owner, over 6 years ago at least. I prefer to put standard oils in it and change them more frequently. Helps to get any water out and you can keep and eye out for teeth and bits of bearings in the oil. Not broken anything yet. I also try not to rag the truck to bits.

If you look in the shooting menu, there's an option to set the image size and quality. On my D2, setting the size to small and resolution to basic, results in pictures around 400k, which seem grand for the forum. Also, setting the exposure to spot meter on a focus point, generally results in better pictures of LR parts.

What about this?

The tech archive is invaluable. I think one problem with though, it that it can only be added to by the mods. I've done a few writeups that have never make it to the tech archives. They might not be the most complicated jobs, but I put them up so that other could learn from my mistakes and contribute their own tips. If we had some sort of Wiki-type submission system that could be approved by a mod, then I think that'd be an improvement, allowing more people to contribute to the archive.

Did the same job over the weekend too, only I had to grid off one drive member off . I had to change half shafts, as the new drive members would not fit on the old shafts. There's still a bit of play with one wheel lifted, but the drive is vastly improved. Wish I've done it ages ago.

£303 That buys a lot of time down your friendly workshop getting a bearing or two pulled.

No problem, good luck with the rebuild, watching with interest

Yeah, that's what I need, unfortunately, Machine Mart don't ship to Ireland

one of these, I image.

I've 2 either side of the fuse box, and 2 above the small windows, either side of the rear door. If you can mount them up near your head though, that'd be better.

This applies to the front prop only though.

This is the pic from the haynes for the spacing on 200 and 300tdi. (According to the Haynes, the 120 degree spacing is for the TD5)

From Haynes for 200 and 300tdi. "Position the oil control ring gap to the manifold side of the piston (the left side when viewed with the arrow on the piston crown pointing forward). Arrange the gaps of the middle and upper rings 90 degrees either side of the oil control ring gap, but make sure that no gap is positioned on the thrust side of the piston. See illustration" If you can't find yours, I can post the illustration. I wonder where they got their info from?

From Nige on this thread "NB - the rings have to be positioned with the gaps at 120 degrees to each other with no gaps on the thrust side (recess side IIRC)."

Just looked in my workshop manual and it says nothing about the position of the rings and the diagram show them lined up I'm sure this is wrong. I thought they were installed at 180 degrees. Remember the rings have a top and a bottom.

Cheers dude. Am going to go round to the tool place at 2 to see what they have. Yes, I thought that initially too, but seeing as I can't get to the bearing track in the transfer box, I've to pull the existing bearing off the old gear and use it on the new gear.

I just bought one of these: It's an aircraft map light, and amazingly well built. It's removable from the base, which I've fixed to the dash, so you can pull the light for rummaging in the cubby box or behind the front seats. Also has a red filter for that Hunt For Red October look

Hi guys, I've a couple of basic engineering questions here. Bear with me I'm planning on fitted my new cross-drilled input gear at the weekend. I'm off to buy a bearing puller to remove the bearings. I've new taper bearings, but I won't be able to change the rear bearing track, so I was going to reuse the old rear bearing, which looks fine. So, am I right in thinking that it's a bad idea to run a new race on an old bearing track? so I would be better using the old race? When pulling bearings, does the puller have to bear on the inner track of the bearing, or can it bear on the cage? I ask this because the inner track only protrudes by 0.5 - 1mm so there's not much there to pull against. Cheers,