Gromit

thanks dad.

Best wait for an adult to answer that one. I can't remember exactly when PAS was introduced TBH, thought it might have been after the TD, possibly not.

So this is the right way round? hard to make out on your picture Ralph.

I assume you don't have PAS fitted? though you say belts Could be bearings in the water pump or the alternator. You can remove the belt round the water pump and alternator and run it and see if the noise is still there. Don't run it for longer than a few seconds as you'll have no coolant circulation without the pump running. If you do have PAS, do the same and remove the belt and see if the noise is still there. To locate the noise, if you have a length of hose, put one end to your ear and listen around the engine with the other end. I don't need to tell you not to get the hose caught in the whirling belts

Chatting to the Da, and he reckons the tape is called bitumen flash-band here too, as Jericho says. Can look in our local building suppliers here if you're stuck and chuck it in the post to you, if you can't find it locally.

Hi Sheppy, It it engine or road speed related? Does it change when you dip the clutch? Does it change when switching from drive to overrun?

really? Cool. B) Em, where? (Shackleton, sorry for the hijack, but you're not going to find your tape anyway )

No, doesn't really pour out. Well, some pours out, but most stays in the swivel. Maybe flushing out with oil might work.

Try going to the goldenPages.ie with that category. Not a hope (Edit to add, I asked around here, no one knows what it is. )

Always wondered why we don't get half the stuff you get in the UK; drives me mad; maybe I'm just not looking in the right places.

great stuff guys Replaced the power steering box with help from Virtual Uncle Les. Old box off and new box on without problems. Filled with ATF. Started it up, wound the steering from lock to lock. Then as per instructions, opened the bleed screw on top of the box. Got in, started up the truck again and turned the wheel - nothing, no movement. Hmm, that's odd, I'll try a little harder - just groaning from the pump. As the open bonnet was obscuring my view, I got out of the truck and pulled on the wheel while peering round to see what was going on in the engine bay, where I was greeted by a fountain of ATF hitting the underside of the bonnet and the front of the house I was parked next to. Les, if ever our paths should cross...

The Kingdom?

I've a knack for refitting wheel nuts hand tight, dropping it off the jack/stand and forgetting to fully tighten the nuts. 1/4 mile later and clunk clunk clunk, what the &%*$ is....oh yeah Maybe I shouldn't be allowed to work on vehicles of any kind!

Was rebuilding a swivel a while back; new railko and bottom bearing, new seals and wheel bearings. After attaching the stub axle, I was having problems getting the swivel to move from lock to lock. Stub axle off to have a look see, pulled the CV out, looked fine, put it back in, still the same. I did this about 5 times and then finally it was fine. Now engrossed in a job that I'd soon be finished, I put the hub, track rod and brake caliper back on. Then went to fit the drive member, hmmmm, where's the splined pokey outey bit? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . turned around to find the CV sitting on the ground behind me. Pulled it all apart again, put the CV in and discovered that I'd just had the CV pushed in too far which was limiting the lock. Was working on my own, so can't even blame someone else.

I got one of these a few months ago. Seems powerful enough and does a grand job of cleaning the trucks. Comes with a swappable lances - a brush, high pressure and Hi/low(soap) .

You and me both. Looked as MSS stuff before, very nice kit, just a bit out of my price range Nice truck, BTW, just a little bit too short

Not necessary. Agree with Ralph, fit the lift and take it from there.

If Crossover doesn't work, there's also Virtual Box. Its free and similar to VMWare. Been using it on my linux box and it works well.

I like those storage boxes you have. Did you make them?

Look in the tech archive. You'll need a new swivel seal. You can either do it the quick way or the slow way. Quick way: remove the seal retainer bolts, cut old seal to remove. Cut new seal and place in position with the cut at the top. Superglue together and refit the retainer. Slow way: Remove track rod. Remove brake caliper. Unbolt the swivel ball from the axle and replace the seal. Here's a of the slow way, done quickly (Edited to add: looking at that video again, I didn't remove the caliper. I removed the flexi to the caliper. Note the plastic over the brake fluid reservoir to minimise loss)

Did a lot of that last year, pulling down trees. Rope 1/2 way up tree, cut 3/4 way through trunk and a swift pull with the truck. The trees were weighted on one side and I found this method pretty accurate in getting the tree to fall in the desired direction. Biggest was about 40ft tall and made lots of noise when it came down. Not the recommended method of course

Good work there fella, well done. B) I'd also like to nominate you as the maddest person on the forum

Looks like we've all got pretty much the same. I've 2 100w lights on the roof, switchable, wired to the head lights. They light up the bonnet a bit but to be honest it don't bother me at all. Brilliant for country roads when there's no traffic, and silver X-trails that pull out in front if me, as happened lat night . Wouldn't be without them. Also have a 100w rear work light, useful for reversing and lamping white van man tailgaiters . Recently got an aircraft map light bolted to the dash. Am on the lookout for suitable inside lights for the 110, though pointing the rear work light in the rear door works well.

Thanks guys

So, I've been working on this this evening, and have a working version - sort of. Could someone give me fuel map block or 2, to try out? I take it that these are always 16KB?