Gromit

waste gate stuck open?

Not for the ratios you don't. The first 2 numbers give you the ratio (cause the all seem to have a 'D' in the prefix) and the suffix gives you the revision or age.

There was a thread very recently about setting up Salisbury diffs. The concensus seemed to be that it was a difficult DIY job, setting up the pinion preload I believe, as it is set via shimming the compression of the casing on the diff. It seems that on some of them, you can get away without needing a spreader to remove the diff. Is it drum or disk braked? I thought drum braked salisbury axles could be had for nowt second-hand.

Run a jump lead from the starter to the battery -ve to determine if you've a bad earth. Check you have a good 12v at the solenoid exciter wire, and the bigger starter feed wire. If not, it could be the solenoid not throwing out properly or the starter itself failing.

I noticed a while back that the Evolution was released and that BlackBox solutions are now supporting it. Is anyone using it? How does it now compare to Rovacom, hawkeye etc? It looks pretty:

From the link I posted above, 22D makes it: 1.410 Defender 4 Cyl bar 2.5 Diesel Nat Asp.

Off, unlocked, is the lever to the right. Left is diff locked. There is no neutral position for the difflock left/right movement. There is only a netural position in the Hi-Low direction.

I know we all hear about the mortal perils of driving about with the diff locked on tarmac, but has anyone actually broken something as a direct result of having the centre diff locked and if so, what let go? All the wind up has to happen from the props outward, so if you wind up a prop or a half shaft and it subsequently breaks, you still have drive to the other axle. So there'd be a bang, but you'd still have drive because the diff is locked. A Catch 44, if you will.

seriously, first link in google. transfer box serial number location

You mentioned the diff-lock lever had been disconnected. Is the hi-low lever connected properly? Escape might be right that the transfer box had just jumped out of gear. If, not you need to do a proper diagnosis. Is one of the prop shafts turning in any gear? If so, it's the axle connected to the turning prop that's dead. If not, remove the PTO cover on the transfer box. If you can see the gear turning, but no props turning, then the transferbox is kablamo. If not, then it's the main box or the clutch. You'll need to drop the main box to look at the clutch.

Any solvent will do really. Diesel, paraffin etc. make sure it's dry before you refit it.

Can you feel the turbo coming on-boost? Check all air ducting for leaks/blockages, including the intercooler. Check the boost line from the turbo to the IP is connected and not leaking. Remove the top of the IP and check the diaphragm spring fuel boost thingy moves up and down freely and that the diaphragm isn't split. Check for blocked fuel filter/broken lift pump.

The camshaft bearing issue on the 200tdi refers to the rear cam bearing moving and reducing the oil pressure. The bearing can be inspected by removing the lift pump cover plate. You should be able to see if it is sitting correctly in its casting. As for your problem, I'm not sure that it moving would have happened with a 'bang'. If it were mine, I'd be looking at the turbo, dropping the sump for a look-see, and then taking the head off.

I had an x-eng sensor in my old 200tdi and an electric fan. Don't think the fan has come on once while on-road driving, including trekking up and down the Alps in the summer. As Peter says, completely over-cooled beasts.

Ahh.. Glad you got it sorted

I bought a 110 with a bit of a whine (of the non-girlfriend type). It started getting worse after 3 months of a 70 mile motorway commute, so I checked the transferbox to discover it was bone dry. Once filled, it resumed it's previous whine and hasn't gotten worse since. I was quite impressed it hadn't exploded. I should rebuild it someday, as the noise is getting a bit tiresome. Comare this to my LT77 that lost all its oil out the front seal, melted the release bearing, warped the front plate, turned bearings to dust - all in about 20 minutes on the motorway. Anyway, I'd fill it and carry on and see what happens [edited to add] This is why I've given up on using a 'professional' mechanic on any of my vehicles.

Converter, excuse me

Looking around Ebay at used UPSs, it looks like many of them above about 300 Watts use 24 or 48v, so sourcing a higher wattage one for use with 12v might be a non-starter. Is using a step-up transformer from 12-24V DC, in order to use a 240V UPS, entering the realms of the ridiculous?

Interesting. I had heard that it was variable loads, such as drills, that needed FSW. Cool. Will keep an eye out.

I've always promised myself I'd get an inverter at some point. A mate has a 1000w full sine wave one for a few hundred. I've no need for a FSW one, just something to charge a notebook, cordless drill, girlfriends hairdryer etc (if it's under 1000w) These seem cheep, and they have a 5V USB port too, which I'd use. My link opinions?

Wheel bearings can do with being removed, inspected and regreased, if you do a lot of wading. Depends on what you are wading in. Silt or muddy water is much harder on components than clean water. Some mud also eats brake pads for lunch. Handbrake drum may need to be cleaned out periodically. The alternator can be rinsed with clean water while running, to get any silt out of it. The starter should be reasonably sealed depending on the type. Other possible items are greasing prop UJs, changing swivel oil. So, lots of extra maintenance required. Sometimes I think it'd be easier to just get a boat.

..which would have been sealed up, given that if they aren't sealed, they make the whole point of a snorkel ....ermm..... pointless. TD5 has one on the bottom of the airbox, along with the usual LR method of sealing the airbox (i.e. leaving lots of holes in it) I've filled all of them. I was looking at the neck of it, wondering about the shape. That makes sense. I wonder if it works.

I was pondering today as I drove along in the hammering rain - where does all the rain forced into your snorkel (Safari type) end up. I have images of it all collecting at a low point somewhere and then being ingested in one gulp when rounding the next corner

Pictures please! Sounds like exactly what I hope to get one day.