Gromit

True-ist thing I've read all day, nay all week.

Most devices have Lithium Ion batteries, not Lithium Polymer. Without knowing the differences in chemistry between the 2, I do know that the latter is much more explody I'm sure that as batteries evolve, the LiPo horror stories will continue beyond the actual risk of using the batteries. Maybe they have already. I have personally had 1 LiPo get hot and swell while being correctly charged - it was less than a year old - and one let lots of smoke out while discharging. Both were from reputable manufacturers and were correctly maintained, balanced, charged and used.

..and when they explode, the continue to burn Napam style until they have set everything around them alight. I used to charge mine in an ammo box.......... outside. Fun things

If you carefully clamp the flexi pipe to the slave, the pedal should go hard If it doesn't, then there's a problem with the master, or the pipework to the slave. Also, take out the wading plug and see what somes out.

Yeah, I'd say Maverik is about right. I used to cruse in my 110, with roof rack and 255/85s at about 65mph. 70mph was achevable with downhill/tailwind etc. That was a 200tdi with 230k miles on it, recon pump and new injectors. The same engine is now in a light 90, standard tyres etc. and it cruses at over 70mph.

Though I never use one, this is one argument for using a test light over a multimeter, as you can check for sections that are failing or introducing a high resistance under load. At least you're narrowed down the location

As above, then I imported mine to France, I got a certificate from LR in France (and paid a chunk of money too, IIRC)

Vinny, Pink is dim dip. You'll need to jump 2 pins if you are not using the relay. The rest I don't know (and mine isn't XS spec) but you can have a nosey at mine. (The fog light relay is in there too)

Always used Coopers and never had any problems.

And i'll think you'll find a 20 pence piece won't stick to a magnet. Best not to keep your change under the oil filler.

As above, I'd start by removing the swivels from the axle tubes and check the half shafts. You can't be sure its the diff.

duff battery that can't keep up for some reason. (someone who is actually familiar with the evils of V8s should really be responding )

Seeing as we're all guessing - I'm going to plumb for an earth fault or blocked fuel pickup.

58 quid buys a lot of filters / beer / flowers for the missus / etc. In fact, go to ebay, go to advanced search, and search for "Land Rover" with Buy Now and a Max Price £58. There are 79,385 items, most if not all of which are more useful than anything made by Britpart.

Is the lock washer clear? Soak in plusgas and then either get a proper socket and breaker bar on to it or tap round with a cold chisel.

Interesting. Not heard that before. Not that that means much

Your experiment doesn't say anything about the transfer box It does say that something is broken in the axle, so either diff, half shaft, CV or drive memebers. You can pop the dust covers off and check the members. Other than that, there isn't an easy way to determine what's broken without pulling the half shafts.

Tunnel area is probably gearbox. Does the noise occur in all gears, all gears but 4th or just one gear? You can try changing the oil and see what comes out / see if the noise changes or stops.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Yes, planning on keeping the truck (just as I was planning on keeping the last truck but ... ) I'd hope that I can still use the existing calipers. The truck is now pulling as the pads bed in. I'm assuming that the scored disk is providing less braking force. So stainless pistons it is then. Just need to figure how to do without the truck while I change them.

Service items are still easily available along with many common parts. Better than any other 10-15 year old car I'd say. For block parts, then you'll have to keep an eye on ebay / local scrappy /friends / here / etc.. I had a 200tdi for 6 years. The thermostat and the water pump where the only parts I found susceptible to stripping as it's a steel bolt in a water filled ally hole Now you know for when you have to do the timing belt. The solution is lots of copperslip when re-assembling. Anyway, buy a helicoil. It's an easily accessible place to learn how to fit one.

This was under full acceleration, not stationary, yes?

hmmmm. Is the diaphragm under the top of the injection pump intact?

Is there enough meat to drill it out and retap to a larger size? or fit a helicoil or time-sert?

Good result. I wonder how much washer and/or turbo shrapnel was injested by the engine.

I finally got around to changing all the brake pads on my 05 defender. (Not soon enough as one of the disks was scored from one pad being down to the metal ) The rears were ok, but the fronts were a bit of a pig, particularly getting the inboard pistons pushed back. I noticed that they were pitted and I had to work them in and out a few times to get them fully back. In the process, I popped one of the seals Anyway, it's all back together and I'm deciding what to do. I need a new disk anyway, or the current one skimmed if it can be. So, 6 years old and the pistons are pitted and need to be sorted. Do stainless pistons really last much longer? I ask because it's much-of-a-muchness buying 8 pistons, seal kits and time off the road vs just buying new calipers (with steel pistons obviously) if they are going to last about the same amount of time FFS Your experiences please [edited to add] If they are worth the money, could you recommend an online supplier.