Gromit

Interesting read this. So is the conclusion that the temperature is controlled by the stat, in so far that it does the best it can with the heat sink available. If the heat sink is very efficient, the engine temp is absolutely controlled by the stat. In marginal situations, the overall heat sink's performance mostly determines the engine temp, which is modulated by the stat

I would solder and heatshrink and get the connections right the frist time

I remember the Ashcroft site stated that the noise was due to the layshaft, which is spinning when the cluth is engaged and the 'box is in neutral. The layshaft amplifies the diesels vibrations at tickover, as there is no load on it. I would imagine that the type/number/age of springs in the clutch would affect how noticable the noise was, hence the OP stating the noise increased after changing the clutch.

Check the wiring to the yellow relay (fuel pump) under the seat. IIRC, its the one to the front of the 2. Check also the blue connector that joins the 2 looms. Wiggle everything till the relay clicks, the fuel pump starts and the temp needle returns to cold.

Good you got it sorted. Must have been Lighting Relay Week last week. I wonder what's planned for next week

Ahh, explains why you gave different fuse positions the last time you had electrical problems with your dash. There was a thread a while back with photos of the fuse stickers, not sure if it had TD5 though.

looking at the wiring diagram, the dash illimation goes as follows: lighting switch -> fuse 12 -> header 290 -> bulbs This should be very easy to trace with a multimeter. The left rear lighting is as follows: lighting switch -> fuse 11 -> header 288 -> number plate & tail light The right is a bit more convoluted and goes through the dimdip relay (which you probably don't have) and the the dash warning light. The only common thing is the lighting switch AFAIK.

Is your rear number plate light working? Are the front side/park lights working? Is the cigarette lighter illumination working?

I meant SD1 Rover & Sherpa vans. The hi-low lever is on the main box, indicating that the vehice the main box came out of, had high and low.

true, but they didn't have low range, did they?

Nige was being humerous Yes, of course a picture would paint more words, but I was just curious if anyone knew of any other BL 4x4 products.

Seconded. It would be great to collect the combined info on the TD5 sensors somewhere.

I was driving my brother-in-law's 110 again last week, and was looking again at his unknown gearboxes. So, I invite your informed or otherwise guesses as to what they might be. The main box is a 5 speed, reverse is left and forward. It's not an LT77. It has a British Leyland symbol in the casting. There is no filler plug on the side. The transfer box is Borg Warner with a viscous difflock and hi and low range. It's not the same as the one from a RR Classic. It feels like it's 1:1.6 as it runs out of gears at around 60mph. Someone last night suggested a 101, but they apparently had 4 speed LT95s. It was also suggested that DAF used BL stuff? Some day if it's ever dry and I'm near the truck again, I'll take the tunnel off and photograph it. So, folks your suggestions as to what it might have come from. Something 4x4 from BL (or that BL supplied boxes to) with hi and low range. (and before you post the usual "ask Ashcrofts", they don't know what it it )

If you want to go wading, you'll need to seal the drain point in the airbox. IIRC, there are also a bunch of other holes in the airbox that need to be sealed too

I had this recently - side lights, dim-dip and nothing else. My problem was the main lighting relay not being seated correctly. I believe however, that this relay was introduced on the 300tdi, so you probably don't have one. In that case, i'd suspect your dim-dip relay. On later models, this is a pink relay behind the dash. My old 200tdi didn't have one, so I'm not sure where it is/what it looks like on earlier models. @Ralph, the dim-dip is driven from position 1 (sidelights) of the main light switch, so not necessarily the lighting stalk (never say never with a LR though )

No, but it would stop the turbo spooling up and cause lack of power. However, if the turbo didn't spool up, there would be no excess fuelling provided by the injection pump, so I doubt it would be causing your misfire & smoke. Worth checking all the same though.

likely to be the hazard switch, as the indicators go through it. There's a diagnosis thingy in the tech archive. edit: which is here

Sounds like it, or a sticking starter solenoid.

For £35.17 (and £13.81 for some hose) I'll manage just fine with a socket

Hi, mine does exactly the same thing, very occasionally, around once a week or so, at first start. Too little to diagnose at the moment. Was the waste gate actuator changed with the turbo? (Is this a defender unit? The disco unit has an extra modulator thingy on the wategate) If the waste gate sticks, you get an overboost error code, and the engine goes into limp home mode. Agree with above, disconnect the MAF sensor and see what happens. Does it have EGR? This is controlled by the MAP sensor - if duff, the EGR could be sticking (worth removing the EGR altogether)

Pink relay behind the dash. You need to join pins 2 and 8 (blue or blue/while wires - can't remember**) **edit - blue, red trace from the wiring diagram

Thanks everyone. Hope to have a sump from a disco next week. For anyone that hasn't removed the sump from a TD5 defender: The sump comes out if you remove the track rod and jack up the nearside chassis rail to allow it to clear the gearbox. If you have a cat, you might have to remove that section of exhaust. I got away with unbolting both ends and moving the section on its hanger, as i've no cat. Watch the oil pickup, which is in the centre of of the sump, and don't forget to remove the dipistick! All bolts are the same length, except the 4 at the flywheel end, which are different lengths.

Hmm, cheaper than I'd have thought. Carriage might be a killer though. I'm in the process of removing the sump. Will see if I can get it fixed/tapped/glued locally. If not, then new sump.

So the oil was draining and I should have known some monkey had previously worked on the truck , as I squashed the oil filter trying to get it off, it was that tight. On cleaning up the sump plug, the threads were full of something like chemical metal. Turns out the sump threads are now stripped So, options now are, I suppose, to remove and retap the sump ?? or should I helicoil it? I don't imagine doing it in situ is a good idea, and risk getting swarf in the sump. How easy or difficult is it to remove the sump? (Looks like it's bolted to the bellhousing too)