Gromit

Mine did that after sitting up for 2 months. I'd guess a small leak past the valve stems. Mine was the same vintage of 200tdi as yours. A little oil in the air filter does happen, as the cyclone filter is conencted to the airbox. Get it up to temperature and take it for a rally down the motorway first and see if that clears it.

That does depend on where he is though. I wouldn't touch my local motor factors with yours.

I'd be inclined to agree. I got mine from IRB Developments and was impressed with the quality. Came with a blank for the vacuum, and the air filter so that you can remove the solenoids completely. I didn't really log the economy before and after. I did it more for the health of the engine.

ECU? Is it not just a latching relay? Header blocks are where one loom is section is joined to another.

As above, you need the full kit for a TD5. The kits for the later Euro IV TD5 engines just have 2 extra blanking plates for the heat exchanger. You'll also need a method of blanking the brake vacuum pipe too.

ok, I'll have a go. Welcome to the forum. What engine are we talking about? 300tdi, TD5, etc. If TD5, there are 2 types. The second type (Euro IV? ) has a water cooled exchanger, which can be blanked off - is this what you are talking about? The EGR system takes its vacuum from the brake servo, so the T connection to the EGR actuator need to be blanked off, or replaced. On the TD5, you can unplug remove the actuators and lines to the brake servo and air filter, providing the brake line is correctly blanked off.

It looks more like the centre of the car caught on the receiver for the gates, and stopped the car. The momentum of 20 tonnes, (or whatever it weighs) of beast moving forward, was translated into downward force at the front, which broke the front suspension.

Temp gauge goes to hot though, when they come loose and fail to power the pump.

ahhh.........a flux capacitor.

Hmm, if the wiring is ok, then I'd try and rig up a fuel pressure guage and see if the pump is keeping up with demand.

sounds like electrical problem with ECU / injectors. Follow everything Inane listed, including the wiring harness to the injectors. Is the temperature gauge always at cold, or does it move to hot when starting?

Interesting. So this is presumably done by Land Rover's marketing dept.? Do any other vehicle manufacturers do that?

ahh.. Pity they can't spell Land Rover

where's the 101?

Nanocom, Hawkeye, Rovacom, Testbook....

On what principal?

8 wires is far too many for a split charge. Is there anything written on it, or can you photo it? I'd start by traceing the wires to/from it and, as you say, rewire if it is causing problems.

I'm not aware of them eating head gaskets. Check the basics first. Rad not blocked, waterpump working. (I have read that the pump shaft can shear, therefore no flow), heat from the heater. Then check the usual water/oil contamination, steam from exhaust etc..

I'm with Bowie on the rear bushes. I'd say they are also causing the drift over bumps, as the axle moves about. Swivel preload, or lack thereof, usualy manifests itself as vibration directly through the steering wheel.

Problem 1 sounds like a large current going through the solenoid, which would indicate a short within the solenoid or high resistance at the connector. If you have verified the wiring for the 12v big feed, 12v solenoid feed and earth, then it just leaves the solenoid/starter. Problem 2 sounds like great fun

As I understand it, Nanocom cannot change any 10AS settings once the ECU has been immobilised. I believe the only way is to enter the EKA code.

:lol: :lol:

A dying CV will interfere with the steering and might cause your symptoms. Jack up the front on full right lock and spin each wheel in turn.

If the accelerator is working, then you don't need a new one immediately, but they develop wear or flat points on them and you might experience misfire type symptoms at some throttle settings. Be aware, when ordering, that there 2 and 3 track pots. There is one direction of compatibility that I can't remember just now. 2/3 track can also be set via Nanocom etc. Here'swhere to buy one. (Not sure if this is 2 or 3 track) or http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=92112

You should go to your Bripart dealer with the actual evidence you now have, as to why Britpart quality is substandard. I personally would never let a bripart part near any part of the braking system, or any other safety critial component.