Gromit

Condolences to you Les.

Mechanically it doesn't matter, but it makes sense to keep the sliding joint up out of the mud.

I would suggest that the problems occurring after starting it in gear are simply coincidence. If it actually problems selecting the correct gear, rather than a dragging clutch, then I'd look at the bias springs on the top of the gear selector.

If this was while revving the engine, then the alternator is not charging. Take it out and get it recon'd, either yourself or by an auto electrician.

Yep, it's the anti-shunt system.

I had 2 amber LED warning lights on my old 110. The main reason for them was that I had found myself stopped or traveling slowly a few times in dangerous places. One particular situation was coming across a guy who had run out of petrol in the centre lane of the motorway at rush-hour. He was particularly clueless and didn't even have his lights on. Having seen rear-end collisions all the time on this particular stretch, I'm pretty sure he would not have lasted long if I hadn't stopped. The last trip my 110 made was when my mum was driving it. She lost drive and ended up stationary in the fast lane of the motorway, in the dark. It was her 2nd time driving the truck. Despite having been briefed on how and when to use the ambers, she didn't find the switch and was rear-ended at about 50mph. I'm convinced the accident wouldn't have happened if the ambers had been switched on. They will be going on my new 110.

Is the bulb working? Have you checked the voltage at the alternator?

you can recon it yourself for very little money, and it's pretty easy. see here

You remove the half shaft oil seal, so that axle oil can migrate to the hubs, lubricating the bearings and drive flanges.

Rad plugs yes? I've used metal ones without orings or washers and not had a problem.

As you have both the stop solenoid and the starter loosing power at the same time, I'd go for engine/gearbox earth too.

if it is a broken bias spring or similar, then yes it would affect the gear change. Could equally be something else in or near the selector that is resonating and not affecting the gear change. There - think I've covered all possibilities with that answer

Are you sure it's not something else resonating? Exhaust heat shields are great for this kind of noise. If it is from the bottom of the gearstick, then you'll need to strip the top selector of the gearbox and find the source of the noise.

:lol: ditto

The R380 is nicer, but it depends if it's nicer to the tune of buying a new one and/or moving the engine. I mean it doesn't bring car-like changes to the defender, 2nd still crunches when it's cold and is only a bit stronger. Personally, I'd rebuild both boxes, or rebuild other ones and swap them, to minimise your time off the road.

That's why a Land Rover should always be the first car of 2.

You could siphon out most of the old fluid out of the reservoir first, fill with new fluid and bleed from there, starting with the brake furthest from the reservoir.

Sounds like the new air filter is restricted in some way

I don't have a welder or the space to buy one and learn (though I'd love to) The Gwyn Lewis guards look nice, though if I had a welder then they could be made pretty easily...

I suppose a wolf pan would make a lot of sense, but welding something on isn't an option for me unfortunately Not driving like a **** might be though

I have one of the sonys. Cant remember which model, but something similar to this: Best thing about it is it has an aux in for an MP3 player and a USB slot. I just stick all music on a USB stick. Good sound and has a front flip for sticking your 78s in too Mine has bluetooth phone too which is great in the car. Haven't tried it in the defender yet - I suspect it'd be pretty mush* useless. *typo, but I think it's appropriate.

Firstly I'd start by spraying everything with plusgas or WD40 a day or 2 before you start. The turret rings will almost certainly snap The spring retaining plates can be a bit of a pain, as can retaining the shock while you undo the lower nut. A pair of stilsons are handy. I assume the shocks have all the required bushes? You will probably get away without needing spring compressors.

I'm pondering diff guards for the new truck. I had the simple clamp-on ones on the old truck and they seemed ok, but never managed to actually abuse/test them too much, and having a Salisbury on the back didn't really need any protection. I'm wondering if QT guards are worth the money for the new TD5 truck. Do they offer better protection of the diff and prop UJ, and do they actually allow you to slide over obstacles? Front: Rear: Cheers.

Sounds a bit low to me. Do you have the correct dipstick and check the dipstick tube has not moved down into the sump.

My 200tdi was similar when I changed the oil. When you drain it, it won't drain completely out of all the oil galleries. When you refill it, the oil filter doesn't fill until you run the engine, hence the oil pressure light staying on for longer the first time. (I assume you don't have an oil cooler as it's a TD?) Best run it up to temperature, switch off and allow to settle and re-check. Then just keep an eye on the level over the following few days.