Gromit

Both reported to Ebay. They can decide.

Hi, On the steering wheel, are there 2 threaded holes? If so, you can make a small puller from a piece of bar and 3 bolts. If not, get a 2/3 leg puller. A cheap one should be fit for it, as they are not usually that tight. Jumping up and down while hangong on to one or other side of the wheel usually does it. Leave the centre nut on loosely so you don't smack yourself when it lets go Oil filter should just be hand tight and shouldn't leak if the o-ring is present and correctly seated. Those prices you quoted for the body work are insane.

Old Man Emu. OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer

thank you Mr. Henson for confirming I wasn't seeing things! Would have made sense once I'd had it apart, but wanted the parts in advance. Cheers.

Check out the questions at the bottom

Hi, cheers but the local motor factors is completely useless. You have to pre-order brake pipe FFS. So, am buying everything online.

I thought that chroming was now illegal in the UK due to the chemicals used?

I've to replace the brake pipe on the chassis rail to the rear, on the 110 ('05 TD5). I'm planning on doing it myself with kunifer and brass unions. Are these fittings on Ebay the correct fittings? I ask, as looking at the ones in Les' thread, look just slightly different (the 11th close-up picture) Cheers!

There is: Check post 14 in this thread.

The 8th digit should be an 'F' for 200 Tdi & 300 Tdi (2.5 Liter, 4 cylinder, Turbor Diesels) rather than the '6' that it is.

The 7th digit is the body type, so the first one 'A' is Truck Cab, Soft Top or Hard Top (Utility body) and the second one 'B' is 3 door Station Wagon, or Freelander 5 door hardtop. As you've said, the 10th digit is the year.

Feel free to photo/write up for everyone else to find their way around

GT 2052 is the TD5 turbo alright. Not sure about the following 'S'

Is that what a standard wolf chassis looks like? Seriously solid

If you read all of the above, then you are probably now here: Wiki - Bernoulli's principle

it also doesn't look new.

I've read about the water pump shearing a few times, so that's a possibility. But from the symptoms, it sounds like the head gasket. As Gary says, I'd get it tested.

Hi, No, it's not normal for the PAS pulley to fall off I'd assume they hadn't been torqued up properly. Is there supposed to be loctite on the bolts on the 300? The temp went into the red because the water pump was no longer pumping. How hard was the engine working during the 2 minutes it was in the red? The 300tdi is a pretty hardy engine. I'd just replace the belt and see how it runs. Keep an eye out for headgasket signs - steam from the exhaust, bubbles / oil in the coolant, water in the oil etc.

There isn't a kit as such, but you can buy the original parts from LR. See page 482 in this

For the cost of the parts, and piece of mind, I'd order new pins and bearings.

I would second being very delicate with the timing chest cover & water pump bolts.

Have a look here. 10W40 is for -10 to 50 degrees, so fine for you. I'd also be sure that the oil confirms to spec A1/B1 for the TD5.

Hi, You can confirm if the belt has broken by looking in the oil filler, or taking the rocker cover off, and seeing if the valve gear moves when you turn the engine over (by hand). A new belt kit is £40 from the likes of Paddocks. This is a Dayco belt, tensioner and some gaskets. Les's HOWTO details every step. It's for a defender 200tdi, but the disco engine is similar. Most likely, the only damage is a few bent push rods, which are easily replaced. You might need a puller to get the damper/crank pulley off. though IIRC, there are 2 holes in it, so you can use a piece of iron bar and 2 bolts instead. All easily done with not too many tools. If you take your time, it's an easy and satisfying job if you've never done it before. To time it, There's a dot on the cam, the pump takes a 9mm drill bit. The only think to be aware of is that there can be 2 slots in the flywheel. The woodruff key should be at 12 oclock when you have the correct slot lined up.

It's it actually air coming up the expansion tank? Does it smell of diesel combustion?

Unfortunately, no amount of driving it about the garden will get it up to temp to burn off the oil, particularly with the 200tdi as it's overcooled. Big hills, if you have them, are an alternative to a 2am motorway run