Gromit

Well said Mark.

Hi Richard, Where were you specifically? I am as unclear about ROWs here in Ireland as you are. In general people seem to go to specific sites to play. Where I am, (East Coast) many areas of the mountain are closed with specific signs for no vehicles/quads/bikes as part of the mountain has been torn up. Pity really, as there are tracks that could be driven without destroying them.

True, or give the hi/low lever an extra push, as you move off.

..and if they are loose, you can tighten up the hub nut. You'll need a hub nut box spanner and a new locking tab. Possibly a drive member gasket. remove dust cap remove circlip & shims remove drive member hammer back locking tab with a chisel/screwdriver remove locking nut. tighten hub nut correctly. fit new locking washer and lock nut (or reuse old lock washer if you're cheap ) bend lock washer over both nuts Refit all the other bits sitting on the ground.

Yes Yes, pulling/pushing stuff, low speed maneuvering, climbing, general larking about etc. Yes Anywhere where you are likely to loose traction at higher speed and don't necessarily need low range. Wet grass, sand etc. It puts the transfer box in neutral. Used for running a PTO (or diagnosing which of your gearboxes is broken ) See my previous post. that's what the forum is for.

To add to this, in general you usually stop to change from hi to low, though it can be done on the move. Changing from low to high is done as follows: From low 3rd or 4th Clutch in Transfer to Neutral Clutch up Clutch in Transfer to H Select 2nd gear Clutch up Locking / unlocking the diff can be done on the move, providing you are not spinning a wheel or driving in circles etc. When unlocking the diff, the diff-lock light will not go out until the transmission has unwound either by reversing in circles or driving on loose ground.

Personally I would find out what it is rather than ignoring it. It could be an indication of something more serious. Firstly check all your wheel bearing are ok. I had both my rear wheel bearings bizarrely loosen simultaneously and give the same symptoms. Swap the wheels front-to-back and see if the vibration moves. Check all bushes for play. Just be because the truck is old doesn't mean it should drive any worse than a new one.

I mounted 2 new speakers in mounts either side of the fuse box, which worked quite well.

Same here on a TD5. Speedo is within 1kph of GPS on 255/85s BFGs I previously had these tyres on a lifted truck and are now on a standard height 110. Haven't managed to get them to rub yet, though the lock stops need slight adjustment obviously. Edited to add, The most noticeable changes are that 1st is taller, there's a bit less pull up long motorway hills and top speed is possibly reduced slightly. Not 100% sure as I didn't really get a chance to get the 110 flat out before I changed the wheels

yes, you do

Emm, yes especially after the park switch gives up on one of them after a few wipes. You could drive one wiper from each motor though.

The only possible reason I can think of why you would want to relocate the motor is to fit a normal sized speaker in the dash instead of an expensive slim one. Unless your knees are hard of hearing, I reckon it's better to fit new speakers in a better location than the factory location and leave the wiper motor where it is. Either that, or the area swept my your wipers is too consistent and you wish to place the motor under higher strain to remove the aforementioned consistency and wipe the bulkhead vents & A pillars randomly.

why?

Was there any smoke? Knocking and going straight to full throttle sounds like it was running on it's own oil, though it stopping when you turned off the ignition would contradict that somewhat, unless it's running partially on oil, but not enough to sustain combustion without diesel. Are you sure you didn't overfill it with oil (moving dipstick syndrome) Is the turbo leaking oil into the intake? Are you getting much blowby with the oil filler cap off?

An oil leak would either be the oil supply (top) or return (bottom) on the turbo. If you clean it up it should be easy to spot where it's leaking. I can't remember what position the actuator should be in, but possibly you've disturbed the waste-gate and it is now opening at under 1 bar. Is the boost pipe from the turbo to the injection pump connected and intact? A boost gauge would tell you if the turbo & plumbing is performing correctly.

Must be a poor connection on the other side of the fuse holder that is causing a high resistance and heat. The fuse will only blow if the current exceeds the fuse rating. Edited to add, I'd put a 20amp fuse back in there, as this limits what the wiring can safely supply without melting etc. If it blows then you've more problems to trace

you have that precisely backwards

It uses exhaust gases to spin a turbine which compress the intake air. The turbine rotates on an oil fed bearing. The turbo does not use oil but if worn, oil can leak past the bearing and be consumed by the engine. In extreme cases, the engine can run away just on this source of oil. How do you know it's the turbo that is not performing?

Fuse 5 - main, is 30 amps fuse 4 - fuel pump relay is 20 amps If it's melting then too high a current is flowing through it (short circuit), or there's high resistance at this point. I see your TD5 doesn't have a centre console so a bit different then. Don't forget to read all the posts - can only help Did you download the link crwoody posted - it's a complete wiring diagram.

My way: Chock the wheels & release handbrake no locker, jack up one rear wheel. Remove the split pin and clevis pin that holds the handbrake cable fork Do up square adjuster until the drum doesn't move. Adjust the handbrake cable at gearbox end until the fork lines up again. Reconnect the fork Back the adjuster off two clicks

yes it is and no it doesn't

Have you worked through the wiring diagram? Fuse 15 supplies the instrument cluster. Are you getting 12v at this fuse and header 0285 (wherever that is!) with the ignition on? (Green/white) If you are, and you have earth from the instrument pack to the battery, then I'd say it's time to look at the ECU Also, The sidelights would feed gauge illumination, so maybe there's a short between the instrument illumination/supply. (red/orange) and fuse 18. Do the instruments light up?

They look good. Can you get the LEDs to strobe? (without injuring yourself )

Hmmm, that's lovely

Yes, if it doesn't turn over, it's not the stop solenoid. Go back to basic fault finding rather than randomly replacing bits. When it stops, do you have 12v at the stop solenoid? Do you have earth back to the battery. Check same at the starter; do you have 12v at the exciter terminal on the starter solenoid, and earth back to the battery. Do you have 12v at the starter itself. If you are loosing earth or supply to both of these components at the same time, then it's not one of the components It's either a common earth problem(engine / gearbox earth strap/ speedometer cable being earth) or common supply problem (battery, wiring, ignition switch etc)