Anderzander

Is it not worth buying a good 2nd hand one ?

I've only seen black or silver checker plate .....

Thanks Boydie ! For the record, I found out it's the same as the disco one.

Thanks Mikey - they do a 6mm too I notice, which is I suspect the set screw size on mine.

That's kind of my thinking Mikey. Would it be worth centring the axle location by moving the rear spring hanger back ? It would mean standard props, no body mods needed and reduce the amount of extra length at the front.

How much further forward will it move the axle ? Do you have any plans for the bodywork to accommodate that ?

I think I'll take it off to see what it's like underneath and also see what I think of it without it. I can let you know here if it's going to stay off then ?

Thanks for the clarification Dave. Lewis, it's just the aesthetic - I don't really use them, I can't remember the last time I needed to stand on them and I fancy seeing how it's look a bit plainer and more standard looking. The chequer plate that's on it is good quality and I suppose another option would be to paint it - but doubt that would really work.

I'm considering removing the checker plate wing tops from my 90 - and musing on what to do with the holes that will remain. The checker plate has a gasket underneath and was a dealer fit - it'd leave 5 holes and I don't know how good the surface will be. If the surface is decent I did consider putting interior trim clips in and colour coding them - not the most aesthetic - but the reaction to that suggestion was that it would look hideous..... An alternative suggestion was to pop a rivet in - but I don't see how that would look much different ? So the other option is filler and paint - or can I replace the top panel of the wing ? Are they separable from the front and side ? I suppose the whole exercise is a little bit of an expression of vanity - and whilst I don't want holes in the wing tops - I'm also not the sort to be out there polishing and waxing the thing. Any suggestions or opinions welcome ....

There is also to consider that on a newer one you can do preventative maintenance - rust proofing and the like, plus you get the galvanised doors. Have you driven both ? Which do you like best ? Does the Td5 need work doing on it ? How's its chassis ? Clunks ? Doors and bulkhead ?

I would have thought you might fit a 3 point linkage next Mo ?

In a car with no roof flights ?! I'm lost !

Dare I say it ...? They always look a bit tacky to me ....

I've dropped them a line to ask about a group buy and also what difference sending them your intermediate gear to be modified makes. I'll post up the reply.

Bit more detail here : http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Ashcroft_Underdrive.htm

I'd love to Si - but I don't have the details... beyond: The 30% gears are apparently tooth count as follows: Input/Intermediate/Low-Int/Low 26/41/20/55 The low gear for the 30% set in overall diameter is 181 mm. Picture of the kit a few down here : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/land-rover/213796-maxi-drive-crawler-gear-installed.html

Hi Ralph This is the solenoid I'm referring to: http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/Patrick_A961/media/miscellanous/06042012106.jpg.html I read somewhere that there is a blanking plate available for it ?

Or we petition Ashcroft to make another batch of crawler gears - to obviate the issue entirely. Please !!!

My figures on the Ashcroft site came out as: 3.54 diff 1.4 LT230 Low first: 43.40:1 giving 10mph at 4709 rpm Fifth high: 03.84:1 giving 70mph at 2919 rpm 3.54 diff 1.2 LT230 Low first: 43.40:1 giving 10mph at 4709 rpm Fifth high: 03.33:1 giving 70mph at 2530 rpm 4.75 diff 1.2 LT230 Low first: 58.28:1 giving 10mph at 6318 rpm Fifth high: 04.47:1 giving 70mph at 3394 rpm This is with 31" tyres. The first change obviously just showing the in improved road manners with the disco box. The different diffs put low box nicely down: 3.54 & 1.2 1 43.40:1 2 25.06:1 3 16.42:1 4.75 & 1.2 1 58.24:1 2 33.63:1 3 22.04:1 But the 70 mph speed is almost 1000 rpm up.

I'm intrigued - but it's worth more than I could afford to pay for it.

Let's build a wicker 88 and burn LR's chief creative design chap in it ?

Strange : Last Active Today, 01:03 AM Hope he's ok !

Besides the cost of that option - I have the problem of having a hydraulic PTO. So not really an option even with cost aside.

I have an Lt230 that has (according to Ashcrofts serial number list) come from a RRC. It's 28D with suffix E Can anyone tell me which cross drilled input gear it needs ? The Ashcroft site just tells you the parts for Defender and Disco serial numbers: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/lt230-rebuild-kits/input-gear.html Any help appreciated

Thank you all. Bill - I'd love to hear what you do if you don't mind sharing it with me. Dan and Dann - I'll head over to Ashcrofts calculator and run some numbers. I had sort of overlooked the diffs on the basis that I only wanted to change low range - but it's worth investigating, especially in conjunction with a higher geared high range. I think my naïveté was that there may have been a set of gears from 'such and such' that could be machined to fit. I'm sure though it would be all over the net if it were the case.