Anderzander

When I fitted longer shocks to mine I had to move the filter - but I did it without needing to undo the pipes. There was just enough flex. I used Gwyn's 3 position pin to pin mounts. I notice that he now does a kit to move the filter across. Details of my bodge here!

If I send any more PM's or emails I'll be done for harassment Ralph! I've been trying to get a message to him for a couple of weeks to buy an EGR kit.

Thanks For mine the plot thickens - the part number recorded through Nanocom is NNN000120 - ie the later flashable ECU. So my guess is that mine has had a new ECU, the later type, and that's why the injector codes are as they are. I only hope they uploaded the necessary EU2 files to it .... Config. tune ID:sttlp009 Fuel tune ID:sthle022 ECU Part number:NNN000120 Homologation:4143 I've no idea! ?

An update: Got time to pop the cylinder head cover off today and jot down the injector codes... they are all totally different. Each one has the 5 letters and also a large single number on them too, not sure if that is supposed to correlate to which cylinder its in? if so number 5 would be at the front and has been changed ? ? .. Reading from the back of the engine to the front: 1 NGBBA 2 NCLBA 3 LFGFA 4 NMNNA 1 NCLCC Can anyone confirm what Ralph said, that the cylinder at the front of the car, on a Td5, is no.1? So that when I program them in its all on the right place. I'm also curious as to how the codes ended up being all the same ... ? I wonder if it was a new ECU and that was the default? Any guesses?

Have you used the search feature? loads of info on here about rust proofing - as you'd expect it being a Land Rover forum an all

I'm getting mine done this month - I'll report back if you like?

Great! Thank you very much

That's good info guys, thank you.

I've arranged to take my 2000 Td5 over to Bell Auto Services in mid June for a re-map. So prior to that I've been doing little outstanding jobs to get it ready, FPR leak etc. One of the things I've done is plug it into my friends Nanocom to check for faults. What its turned up is that Nanocom is saying that all 5 injectors have the same code. Apparently this is as likely as winning the lottery .... They have been recorded as: INJECTOR1: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR2: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR3: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR4: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR5: NC NC 0-M-A So my plan is to get a new cam cover gasket and lift the cover to read the codes directly from the injectors- so that we can put these in before I take it to be mapped. I've seen this thread, with a bit of info from Porny - though I'm still not clear what the last two letters on the ECU are given that the injector only seems to have 5 letters, where the 5th is converted to a number. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Also which is injector 1?

My friend's done this a couple of times, first black and then silver, I'll send him the link for him to comment :-)

Ahhh.... Perhaps repeat with a good quality seal. Some good Viton ones on eBay. If you do it yourself you can also rule out a leak through any Installation errors/problems.

Are you sure its more ? I paid £124.91 including postage for ETC7939 ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT, ERR6761 FUEL STRAINER O RING, MSX000010 FUEL CONNECTOR BLOCK GASKET and LR016319 CONNECTOR FUEL BLOCK. That's the earlier 2 pipe one though.

I paid 59p for one on my ipod touch. Its one of the first ones made and has flat sides so no trouble with taking readings. It seems to be working well - and is certainly the cheapest option so well worth a try. My steering self centres - but there still seems to be a little vibration that wasn't there before - so I'll see what this turns up :-) Thanks for all the replies everyone.

I'm just about to do this too. I also bought my gasket, regulator and o ring from LR Series - but I went for OE parts. My engine has started to feel a bit 'lumpier' recently and I'm hoping the regulator leak will be the reason...

I have an ipod touch! - I'll check it out Thanks Si - brilliant heads up.

Thanks Ralph Those figures will make useful baselines. I know about adjusting the drag link - I was just baffled as to why it would alter ?! :-)

Having altered my front suspension I want to check how close I've got my castor back to being stock - so I've been looking at inclinometers with a view to measuring the diff and prop on mine and taking the same measurements from a standard vehicle. Ebay has cheap plastic dial types, for £4.15 posted: Or these for just over £20: Both are much cheaper than on line shop prices. My concern though is that £20 seems a bit for a tool I'll use once - whilst the £4 one doesn't convince me it'll be easy enough to use .... Can anyone make and suggestions or recommendations please? I looked at tool hire, but non seem to have this kind of thing.

Hi Michelle I haven't re-drilled the diff for bigger bolts - though I have used longer ones of the same thread as those that came out. Before installing it I hadn't realised that the new bolts were larger and didn't have a tap that size. Looking at those bolts though, in relation to the main forces acting on them (ie through the links) they are in shear ... and so are all the other bolts on the Rock Guard, and the rest of the bolts are massive. So I feel pretty comfortable with the old bolt diameter. I may drill and tap them out later or perhaps buy bolts in a stronger material with a higher shear strength. The pic at the top of this thread is everything in the kit - what do you think is missing from yours? One thing I'm not sure on is the position of those thin tubes on the control arms. The instructions say for a 90 they should be on top, whereas on a 110 they should be underneath. Though it doesn't specify if they should point in or out? The picture on the instructions 'appears' to show them pointing in - but I can't be sure.

T1G UP, That cross member is the one Safari Gard sell for the V8: Anyhow - I got to time to drive it today. Possibly a small bit of vibration around 40 mph? But really driving very well.

I recently bought crwoody's 3 link set up via Hybrid_from_Hell ..... thread here.. And I got to fitting it yesterday with the help of friend. This is crwoody's picture of the set up: The kit comes with a model specific cross member - and this one was the V8. The cross member's centre sits as low as on my TD5 - but the ends kick up for the twin pipes of the V8. The standard cross member for the TD5 has the pipe routed above it and looks like this of course: So I expected to have to re-route the pipe under the V8 cross member - and bought a flexi link as a temporary solution. Here's the pipe on ebay. It was fantastic quality when it turned up though - really substantial and with a smooth interior and exterior - good enough to use as a permanent solution This is the new cross member sat directly below where it will be. The standard pipe is above it and the flexi link is in shot too. The rusty square on the inside of the chassis beams is where the old cross member was and where this one will fit too. What became apparent was that with the link I could still run the pipe over the top and end up with much better ground clearance even than the stock set up. Here's the new cross member mounted in place and a section of the original exhaust cut out. Also visible is the diesel leak from the FPR up above ... The front pipe and flange end was removed and welded to the flexi link: Here's a couple of photo's of it fitted. We kept the original hanger bracket and rubber but moved it. We made up a new mount from the old one ground off the pipe and a D clamp. It turned out really neat and I'm really pleased with it. Then it was time to tackle the 3 link, its laid out here ready to start. The photos kind of stopped for a while here - lol - as the fitting turned into a bit of a nightmare. Not sure how much was down to Land Rover tolerances or Safari Gard tolerances. Suffice to say after hours of filing, drilling, levering, sweating and becoming stressed etc it was on. The 'Rock Guard' and its associated bushes was the nightmare. Its basically a cover / guard for the track rod, not dissimilar to the one Gwyn (Lewis) makes, except that this one picks up the radius arm mounts and the ARB mount and the two threaded bolt holes on the underside of the diff pinion. It then serves as the mount for the 3rd link. The centre link is adjustable in length so you can set the castor. I don't have an inclinometer or the like so we took 3 measurements to and from various points and used these to set it up. The Diff had dropped quite a bit so we jacked it up bit by bit until all the measurements were as close as possible and then fitted the centre link. We erred on the side of dropping it a little to increase castor rather than decrease it. Here you can see where the Rock Guard uses the two bolt holes in the diff to mount: Here you can see the front radius arm, and the axle ARB mount, taken by the Rock Guard: No action shots yet and I've not yet tried it off road - but on road it drives very well. I don't know how much the standard springs and OME shocks I have help with that. I can feel its more compliant but it doesn't roll or wander any more than it did before.

I've just finished fitting a 3 link front end (which I'll make a thread for later on). I had to remove and refit the track rod (in the dark....) and after I've reassembled it all the steering wheel is off centre, when it was spot on before. I figured I must have got the tracking out - but after a quick measure of the distance across the front and rear edges of the front tyres the tracking seems pretty good. I measured twice and got a 5mm difference. What's confusing me is that I didn't touch the drop arm or drag link so why would my steering wheel alignment have changed at all? I suppose if the axle had moved across a little it would do that too - but I left the panhard rod on and other that the link rods all the rest is as it was (ie shocks and springs etc) I'm thinking my measuring must be too inaccurate and that I need to get under there again and measure from the inside rims of the front wheels. Am I missing something?

Except they want £37 for it on that web site

Do you think they will be looking for the new one to by bought by the military? I think that may be our only hope for it being genuinely robust and rebuild-able.

I just did mine - I bought one of the Viton ones from ebay. Very pleased with it - came quickly and good quality.

I need to get one too - anyone recommend a place to buy from?