Anderzander

Thanks Dan - I'd been on there - but with not knowing what parts I needed I wasn't sure what parts the search brought up were for the 'eye' end. Plus I wanted to know the sequence of the parts in assembly. Thanks Ralph! - just what I needed.

Can anyone post up a picture of the parts and numbers I need for the pin end of a Defender steering damper? I need to replace them - but am not sure what parts and in what order they fit.... Stephen

Isn't it mainly there to protect the box?

I'll miss it off my trip.

Are you referring to the IRB kit here? ie they now come with a bung rather than a replacement pipe? I hope not! It was the pipe that seperated it from the competition. The material of the induction pipe seems largely irrelavant other than aesthetics - and other kits have bungs too... I thought the pipe replacement helped it look professional too. I hope I've misread your post.

Any idea when that will be Paul? I've a trip planned, with few days already booked in a B&B, in 2 weeks - I'm really hoping its done by then ....

What did you go for in the end? welding?

Sounds like a cracking idea this. Perhaps I could just have a tyre place break the bead and pour them in?

Do a search Mitch - there is loads and loads on Suspension

That would be the ideal solution .......

Thanks for all the info guys - I'll see what I can put together and post up the results.

Thanks I'll have a look - and look for a little voltage regulator too then.... It would be nice though if there was an integrated solution.

hmmm ......I'd rather find a socket though than pay for a new stereo. I don't really even listen to music that much This is interesting: A waterproof extension cable with a panel mounted end. I guess I'd just cut the USB plug off the other end and wire it into a 12v feed and earth. link

Has anyone found a USB socket that could be fitted in to the dash panel ? so that I could charge phones, ipods and sat nav's etc? The only things I can find are adaptors to plug into a cigarette lighter socket but I don't fancy that I want a panel mounted one.... but the only panel mounted ones I can find are to convert USB A to USB etc: This is an extension for a clarion Hifi - but would make a nice neat front end. It'd be an expensive way of doing it though - to buy it and cut the cable down and just wire it up for power.. Anyone able to point me in the right direction.

I remember asking Gwyn about it when I came to fit mine - he said he wasn't sure how it was done, but said no one had come back to him about it so presumed it can't be too difficult to sort out. This is how I did it - remove the guard leaving the filter and pipes connected: Mark out the hole spacings on a bit of card, as you look at the chassis there are two top bolts that hold the filter and the bracket, and two bottom ones that just hold the bracket: I decided that 4 bolts to mount it was overkill and so iirc elected to just use two ( a top and a bottom) and rotate the mount around the top left hole and fit it onto the top right hole on the chassis ..... if that makes sense. So I rotated the bracket around the top right hole on my template: and marked the bottom right hole by pushing through the template to mark the bracket: I then drilled the hole: But as I didn't have a large enough drill bit - I opened it up a bit with an old engine porting tool: I then realised I'd done it on the wrong place and so repeated the procedure in the right place...... Then just bolted it up, the pipe work is stiff and there isn't much leeway, but if you do it like this it'll move enough to allow the new mounts to fit without having to remove or extend the pipework : It immediately felt firm enough to satisfy me that 4 bolts was over kill. If it hadn't I'd have drilled a new hole in the chassis and used a nutsert. I've done lots of miles both on and off road on it though and its not moved at all.

I did this and moved the filter set up across drilling a new hole in the standard back using the standard hoses - I took a few photos, I'll look for them and post them up.

I think on the internet they call that ....

I'd recommend reading the suspension article in the tech archive - a lot of good basic explanations in there about what does what etc. I have x springs on the back along with +5.5" shocks and Gwyn's mount on standard springs, ie no lift and I get good articulation..

The Gwyn Lewis kit is brilliant IMO.

I used the RBC100111 ones on the front of mine with Gwyn Lewis challenge turrets - they fit ok. Looks like they wouldn't interfere with relocation either... though I haven't got to take off the anti roll bar yet so am not really sure I've really put that to the test.

CG I recommend these: Gwyn Lewis' galvanised open turrets .... Link Well worth doing whilst its in bits imo. He does these too: Very good price too - link

Brilliant!

The OME's you should be able to hold with your hand to tighten them up.

When you put the OME shocks on don't over-tighten them - you'll just bind up the bushes and stop them working.

Mr Widget is a top guy = and a good driver to boot. Its a cracking lane that one too. One strange thing about the video's is that they always seem to visually flatten out the terrain? not sure why that is.