Anderzander

best as in quickest? robust? easy to fit? easiest to deploy? strongest pull? least maintenance?

3/4" .... is that what it's supposed to be I'm trying to make the best of my bad lock and am working on about 1/4" ....

Excellent. I've always found him great to deal with and his stuff is top notch :-)

Here are the turrets: Link Galvanised spring seats: Link Turret rings: Link

I'd be inclined to fit Gwyn Lewis turrets, he does them in std height, and they are imo a better design. You'll be able to clean round the top of the shock. He also does galvanised rings iirc. Perhaps also, seeing as the turret bolts aren't loaded in sheer, you could use stainless bolts?

I found this, apprently from the manual: turn off the starter switch and wait for 15 seconds turn the starter key to position 2 and wait for30 seconds turn off the starter switch repeat steps 2 and 3 six times fully depress the accelerator pedal keeping the pedal depressed,start cranking the engine continue cranking the engine and as soon as the engine is running on all cylinders ease the accelator pedal back to approximately halfway and release the starter key the engine should now be running if not do it all over again

Its worth waiting for the OME ones imo anyway

The dash light came on in mine - I took the filter drain off to look, no water drained out, but 1 of the wires had corroded off. I put it back on and the light went out ... when I checked the 2nd wire had now broken off. When I replaced the filter the next time I just left the plastic blank in the bottom.

Tip-x ? Lol

Do you have a rev counter? or ABS? if not then the ECU will read them as a fault.

I like the X-Tend name For the arb - how about Roll-X ?

Cruise at 80 mph!? Is the noise not just tyre or running gear resonance with it being speed affected?

When I fitted longer shocks to mine I had to move the filter - but I did it without needing to undo the pipes. There was just enough flex. I used Gwyn's 3 position pin to pin mounts. I notice that he now does a kit to move the filter across. Details of my bodge here!

If I send any more PM's or emails I'll be done for harassment Ralph! I've been trying to get a message to him for a couple of weeks to buy an EGR kit.

Thanks For mine the plot thickens - the part number recorded through Nanocom is NNN000120 - ie the later flashable ECU. So my guess is that mine has had a new ECU, the later type, and that's why the injector codes are as they are. I only hope they uploaded the necessary EU2 files to it .... Config. tune ID:sttlp009 Fuel tune ID:sthle022 ECU Part number:NNN000120 Homologation:4143 I've no idea! ?

An update: Got time to pop the cylinder head cover off today and jot down the injector codes... they are all totally different. Each one has the 5 letters and also a large single number on them too, not sure if that is supposed to correlate to which cylinder its in? if so number 5 would be at the front and has been changed ? ? .. Reading from the back of the engine to the front: 1 NGBBA 2 NCLBA 3 LFGFA 4 NMNNA 1 NCLCC Can anyone confirm what Ralph said, that the cylinder at the front of the car, on a Td5, is no.1? So that when I program them in its all on the right place. I'm also curious as to how the codes ended up being all the same ... ? I wonder if it was a new ECU and that was the default? Any guesses?

Have you used the search feature? loads of info on here about rust proofing - as you'd expect it being a Land Rover forum an all

I'm getting mine done this month - I'll report back if you like?

Great! Thank you very much

That's good info guys, thank you.

I've arranged to take my 2000 Td5 over to Bell Auto Services in mid June for a re-map. So prior to that I've been doing little outstanding jobs to get it ready, FPR leak etc. One of the things I've done is plug it into my friends Nanocom to check for faults. What its turned up is that Nanocom is saying that all 5 injectors have the same code. Apparently this is as likely as winning the lottery .... They have been recorded as: INJECTOR1: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR2: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR3: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR4: NC NC 0-M-A INJECTOR5: NC NC 0-M-A So my plan is to get a new cam cover gasket and lift the cover to read the codes directly from the injectors- so that we can put these in before I take it to be mapped. I've seen this thread, with a bit of info from Porny - though I'm still not clear what the last two letters on the ECU are given that the injector only seems to have 5 letters, where the 5th is converted to a number. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Also which is injector 1?

My friend's done this a couple of times, first black and then silver, I'll send him the link for him to comment :-)

Ahhh.... Perhaps repeat with a good quality seal. Some good Viton ones on eBay. If you do it yourself you can also rule out a leak through any Installation errors/problems.

Are you sure its more ? I paid £124.91 including postage for ETC7939 ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT, ERR6761 FUEL STRAINER O RING, MSX000010 FUEL CONNECTOR BLOCK GASKET and LR016319 CONNECTOR FUEL BLOCK. That's the earlier 2 pipe one though.

I paid 59p for one on my ipod touch. Its one of the first ones made and has flat sides so no trouble with taking readings. It seems to be working well - and is certainly the cheapest option so well worth a try. My steering self centres - but there still seems to be a little vibration that wasn't there before - so I'll see what this turns up :-) Thanks for all the replies everyone.