stephencdavies

Good old duck tape. good luck. drive carefully

it depends how much its leaking. if its leaking a small amount into the rubber cap you could pack it with grease to act as a secondary seal. i'd stage drive stopping to check the oil level. but in reality if you run dry it could cost a fair bit. if you have RAC relay , i'd use that.

i'd check the injector return lines are tight too. i had one that was lose and sucking in air, it doesnt take much. Maff sensors can be cleaned with carb cleaner. EGRs can be cleaned too. they get quite messed up. you might be able to refit the EGR the wrong way round, that means it thinks its working but the port is always closed, saves buying the blanking kit. ( we do this to improve performance on Vivaro vans )

that defender 110 has been snapped up already.

this just came up on gum tree https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/land-rover-defender-110-tdi-spares-or-repair-ideal-for-parts/1179205551

Tis true. the Landiman has gone away. apparently acc to Crown court he borrowed money raised for help the heroes. ( on a permanent basis ). i'm sure theres still parts available at Morchard farm though. if so , they may be desperate enough to pass them on. who knows. if you havent already. its worth chancing your arm. you could also try Cornish wreckers, if you havent aready. http://barneyproctor.wix.com/cornishwreckers

Sticking a pump wired up to 12v into a tank of highly volatile liquid isnt for the faint of heart. my only tip would be, Not to do at night by candle light

Before you fit rear seats. check your V5. some 90s say theyre 3 seaters. if your lucky the seating capacity section will say nothing ( as mine ). i'm not sure what the legality is when fitting extra seats. i think if it says 3. you need to inform somebody of the changes for insurance purposes or for some white collar worker to get out his rubber stamp. it might be worth checking the MOT status too, depending on how you decide to fit them. all i have is the bottom cushion in the rear and two seats in the front. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82262 https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/adding-rear-seats-to-a-utility-defender-and-the-law.177450/page-2

the oil / diesel mix could be your problem. normal diesels will run at CN40 to CN50. i'm not sure what your mix would be. it sounds like its the fuel. i would drain the tank. put some diesel cleaner like Comma diesel magic in and 1/2 a tank of clean fuel. you fuel might just be too thick.

Yeh! i've got enough to think about while driving in the west country. another gauge will just be a distraction. i've order a tacho on the bay. i looked at the reviews and everyone says how accurate it is. it cost less than a tenner. i just want to set my idle speed as near as damn it. i've not really addressed the idle speed since the rebuild. the clever ones out there will say do it by ear. well i cant. i still hear voices in my head....... normally her in doors

Just reviewed this idea. i'm not going to bother. i only wanted one, mainly to set the idle speed. it's running a bit slow. i'll just get a hands free contact less one,.they are cheap as chips with the added bonus of seeing your tweeks as you do it.

on your 90 , the side panel should have a support brace running top to bottom. i'd measure that and use it a a guide. soft , crushable insulation can be a bit thicker, so it squashes in place,but the solid stuff needs to be exact. also when you glue it, use a high heat resistant spray glue. one that goes to 120c. when i did mine , it started to go saggy as the spray glue wasnt up to it. i had to redo the whole thing. i relined my roof too. again ... use high temp glue or it'll be hanging off after a sunny day. trust me, i learnt the hard way.

you might need to take the cable off the truck, remove the inner cable. clean it and lube it up. i had a similar thing with a speedo cable. when i removed it the cable was covered in fine swarf. your accel cable might be the same. my 200 accel cable goes from the pedal straight through a hole in the bulkhead and to the pump without any twists and turns. maybe different makers provide different lengths. if you cable is a standard one , like on a push bike brake, you should be able to cut it to size.

if you have a welder, weld a bolt to it, it should just need a tack weld. you may get away with placing a nut over whats left and tack that too. when you say you drilled and tried to use a removal tool, i guess you mean one of those reverse screw type things. in the past ive managed to remove a stud by drilling into it and sacrificing a male star socket. all those cheap screw driver sets have them.if you can whack one of those in, you might just get enough on it to get it out, also before you try to undo it, try to nip it up 1st. that may break any rust thats holding it tight.

try this one. http://landiman.wix.com/home#!location/c3fg

i think the interior light is on the same circuit as the horn. maybe your interior light is sucking away the power. my one is at 12v -ish and works fine. obviously the original horn worked. just wondering how well it was working. i think there's been issues with the horn stalks. i'm sure there's been horn questions on here before. it's worth trawling the archives, or do as i do, ask the question and wait for someone like western to chip in.

12v should be fine, just put it up against the wire thats in place. if the size/gauge looks the same then it probably is.

i stuck my switch in the end and the pressure sender on the side. i dont think it matters which one you use. the duel pole senders mean you dont need a T piece or your original switch. one pole is for the dash light switch and the other is for the pressure gauge. i bought the T piece and single pole sender as its all i could find at the time. i have a mud dash so i slipped the wire through the bulk head to there. works great. as for pressure. thats a tricky one. my gauge is Psi. i get 60 when cold and 25 when hot. this is when using 10w/40 oil. i did have 5w/30 in until a few days ago it was 50 when cold and 15 when hot. what ever happens you will see two pressures, one hot and one cold. when you idle with a cold engine the pressure will obviously drop of, but when you rev the engine , the pressure will go back up. this is a good way to see your pump running. you will just get used to where it wants to be. the T piece i sent is for idea only. the one i bought specifically said for Tdi , so best to hunt one down, TBH it was the 1st link i found, just make sure the thread size is correct.

I'm thinking of putting a rev counter on my defender 200Tdi. Is it worth having or is it not worth bothering. i'll have to check that my alt has the w pole 1st. i have a volt meter, oil pressure, time clock and the fuel / temp gauges already. any thoughts. steve.

i bought something similar to these. cheap as chips and does the job. there are gauges on the bay that have a sender that does the warning light and pressure. that means you dont have to have the adaptor. worth looking into http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-300TDI-200TDI-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTOR-MLR-IE-/122021302518?fits=Model%3ADefender&hash=item1c690950f6:g:NK0AAOSwGotWqgyM http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-DIAL-0-100-PSI-FACE-52mm-2-WITH-SENDER-/290947927681?hash=item43bdd90e81:g:EC0AAOSw~gRVwLaG

I've just read the new MOT regs. Tims right, my MOT tester mate is wrong. it proves a point that some testers should be challenged. i've just sent my mate a text that puts him right ( mates can do that, i think ) just in case, i might take it somewhere else next year.

Diesel magic did it for me. cheap and made a huge difference very quickly. i think all Tdi owners need to treat their Landy's once in a while with some cleaner. my mates an MOT tester and when he saw mine start up and rev prior to its MOT, shook his head. i told him the truck hadnt been run for two years, ( project ) started 1st time.anyway i put half a bottle of diesel magic in and ran it for about 1/2 and hour, so it got up to temperature. i did this once a day for a week, until the MOT. no smoke, and it sailed through. ( he wasnt being kind either )

i have been called scrooge but hey ho, why waste money. i would buy some sheet insulation a hardboard from wickes. spray glue the insulation in place, spray the hardboard the same colour as the inside of your truck. drill and screw or rivet it on. the kit you talk of can look carp if badly fitted, get some heavy duty lining paper , the thick card grade and make a template first. like the expensive kit, it'll only look as good as you fit it.

i just took a look at how i done mine. i traced the wire on the multi plug that goes to the oil switch. i cut the wire off , but long enough to put a connector on the tail that is left on the multi plug. i then traced a new wire through the bulkhead and to the switch. hope this helps if you have to fudge it.

speak to the MOT tester about the lights. i think the new MOT regs says the warning lights have to work. i know that when i had my MOT a few weeks ago the subject came up. i had the same problem as you. the 1st thing i did was bought an after market oil pressure gauge and a T piece. really quick to install. at least then youll see your pressure all of the time. you'll get used to the engine pressure as differing temperatures. like me you can get paranoid about it. i then stripped the warning cluster off and put a tester on the oil warning side of the bulb. i found which side had power when the ignition came on, just like the battery one. i put a wire to a new oil pressure switch straight from the bulb ( bit of fudging ) now it works as it should. i'm not sure what the original wiring fault was , but looking behind the dash at all the messy wiring wasnt worth delving into, all you need is the light to come on at ignition and go off once the engines running. thats what the MOT tester will check for. my mate had the same problem and couldnt suss it, so he wired the oil light into the battery one, so they both go on and ff, BUT he has a pressure gauge to back him up.