stephencdavies

Youre mad as a box of frogs, but you own a land rover so we already knew that. i have witttle truck speakers. if you listen very carefully over the noise of the 200 Tdi , you just about make out whats playing.

stop worrying. if it runs well / normally i wouldnt worry. try pulling off in 2nd gear on a flat to see if the clutch slips. if it does then theres wear. TBH in Devon we have our fair share of steep hills. if i approach them from standing still or slowly. i tend to go up in 2nd albeit slower but without the engine screaming ( new clutch ) if its a long climb i get enough speed up to warrant the next gear. when driving a TDI you feel the torque. they are very strong and if looked after will serve you well.

i'd be taking a look in the tank. maybe the pick up pipe is lose, also check you fuel sedimenter, if you have one. just a guess

stc1139 for defender 90 and amr 1495 for the 110 both are Bearmach. thats according to a well known auction site. ( L R Parts ) i've recently fitted the one for my 90, it comes in a green branded Bearmark box, as does the one for the 110 / 130 which i fitted for a mate.

if you haven't actually got these parts they are plentiful on Ebay for about £25. as for directing more flow to the drivers side. i removed the top vent trim. i put some black electrical tape across the vent apprx 1/3 at each end. so now the passenger vent only blows from the middle. as youve said the system is poor at best. the actual amount of extra air going to the drivers side is just noticeable.

i agree. might as well do them both at the same time. hopefully once they've both been changed and bled, you wont have to visit them for some time, famous last words.

you could try reverse bleeding it. get an oil can and fill it with brake fluid. put a hose on the end and connect it to the bleed nipple. open the nipple and pump slowly. if theres air in there it should travel up to the master cylinder. a standard oil can should hold enough to do the job. make sure there/s room in the master to receive the fluid. obviously the bleed nipple must be checked / cleared first as Western says.

I had this problem. easily solve by buying a new bearmark sender. they are quite cheap to buy and easy to fit. as you've already removed your sender why not just pop a new one in. i've had many problems over the last few months with parts in blue and white boxes. the extra few pounds spent on OEM / Bearmark will save you grief.

Thanks Western, just ordered a couple. i'll be changing the oil a couple of times in the next few months.

Lights on facing a wall or similar. hover your reflectors over the beam until it moves central or over the opposite side. then stick them on. near as damn it wont hurt.

So, the final word on my self hijacked thread is 15w40. i'm happy to go with the advice. i've spent thousands rebuilding my truck and dont want to throw all the hard work away by not using the right grade. so finally. i wont be using 5w30 semi and will revert to using 15w40. the Q is semi syn or mineral. i plan to change the oil every 5 / 6 months regardless of mileage.

Possibly an air lock in the top hose. i'd run without the thermostat in until the issue has been sorted

Ye olde Haynes book of untruths says 5w30 to 25w50. my Europrats car spares acc says 5w40. i was just wondering if my high miler would benefit from a thicker oil. the pressure at cold is 55 and then drops to about 15 when hot. i think these are normal for the engine. i think i'll go with the owners / forum advice. theres a good bit on the difflock forum. 10w40 it is then.

Yup, that about sums things up ( no i didnt cross thread it, turns out it was a Britpart ) i watch a tv prog the other day where a Range rover was restored at Britpart's workshops ( car rescue one with fuzz and his plonker side kick ). funnier than Wheeler dealers, ( oldout yerand yoo bort a motah ) No doubt its a scrapper now. funny thing is, i thought BP was a quality brand until i had 1st hand experience. thats BP v Bearmark etc. i must admit i laughed when i read your post's as its almost identical to my experience............... but i did the cross threading and it didnt take much to do it either.

I've always used Pagid on road cars. i've just put a full set back and front, discs and drums on. so far the brakes have worked well. ( apart from a knackered master cylinder )

my one just sits all on its own. its the disco one with the butterfly bracket ( for want of a better description ) the only thing thats been holding it is the nut on the bottom. i'm not sure. what i should fix it to as the top end is defender with the high mount turbo. when i do the oil change next week i might adjust the tube so the stick reads correct. no doubt it'll find its own way again. i could move the olive back to its original place and braze it. or do the right thing and find a defender tube and stick. to be honest i'm a little defendered out at the moment. ( see my post about master cylinder and you'll see what i mean ) Happy Land Rovering evryone.

1991 Defender 200 TDI was a wreck , now brought back to live another full life

the failed one was from allmakes4x4 via barry4x4 in wales. to be fair theyve been very accommodating. they have agreed to send me the TRW in exchange for the other ( non branded ) Barry4x4 were shocked when i told them what had happened. theyve sent the new one out 1st post. i'm going to have to wash out the servo as the the brake fluid will probably want to digest it over the next few months. i'm also going to do an engine flush ( probably with sacrificial oil ) new oil filter etc. once fitted and all hunky dory i hope a lesson will be learnt. no cheap stuff. i'm kicking myself because everything i used for the rebuild, no matter how small was OEM/bearmark. why on earth i settled for nearly as good as is beyond belief. My truck has about 130 on the clock and i was going to use 10w40 instead of 5w30........ opinions please

thanks for all the responses guy. heres what i found ( or a landy mate did with me watching ) i stripped the brakes , drums on rear for inspection. nothing. topped the reservoir up and watched the level drop as we pumped the pedal. we ( royal wee ) took the vacuum non return off and stuck a cable tie in the servo. it was 1/2 full of brake fluid. the rear vacuum seal on the master had failed..... brake fluid was being sucked in on merrily wen on its way to the engine via the vacuum pump. i've contacted the company that sold me the MS and they have agreed to send me a TRW as replacement.

no further forward bled the brakes again using a one man kit. flow was poor. i then revived my easy bleed and put 1/2 a ltr of fluid through all corners without seeing any bubbles, very slow though ??. the brake pedal initially was hard but then dropped off again. it recovers a bit when its pumped but its not what it was. i've checked the one way valve again. this blows one way. the vacuum pump feels okay, suction appears to be fine. when i remove the one way, they servo draws air to the vacuum, so i assume the servo is ok. i topped up the reservoir to max and after a few pumps the level dropped................. could there be an air lock somewhere. i also jacked the o/s rear wheel up and span it over, at the same time i used a lump of 2x2 to press the brake pedal. the wheel never stopped until the pedal almost bottomed out....

Well, MS came this morning, all shiny and new. took about an hour to remove and refit the new one. i did prep the bleed nipples with a tad of plus gas. i also bench bled the MS before fitting ( never bothered before ) stuck the EZ-bleed on it and hey presto-ish. the rears and the NS was done but as i was ducking under the wing to finish off the OS, the damn EZ-bleed bled to death. lummy seal split !!! hey ho. will need to wait for the missus to return from her golf day. She can play pedal pusher for me. As for my earlier comment about repairing the old one, i agree with Maverik and probably wont repair it. i might pull it apart though, coz i can.

i recently done the same job, i also had the same querie. i have the same engine. no ............ spacer. works a treat. a new pump will make the fuel spurt out of the filter vent like a bugger, so put your hat on. ( Devon rattler )

Ian, generally the rhs is the off side. normally seen when sitting in the drivers seat. i've often been puzzled by this, especially when looking under the bonnet. LHS is the near side.

That was my line of thinking too. never seen it behave this way before. the new master should arrive today and hopefully i'll be back on the road again. i was thinking of repairing the one i take off, mainly to take a look at what might have gone wrong. good seal kits aren't expensive so i'll repair it and leave it aside. ( my workshops full of defender bits, left aside...... just in case ) thanks for response.

I have a 200 TDI hard top thats been totally rebuilt. when i changed the brakes, the master cylinder reservoir popped off. So i decided that as it was the only original part. i'd change it. that was last year. the brakes have been fine since and have sailed the MOT. the other day the pedal went soft. i limped home and done the obvious checks. No leaks anywhere. the reservoir was full. there was good vacuum at the pump. i took the top off the pump and checked the vanes ect, checked the hose and non return valve.all good. engine running or not, the pedal dropped. the only thing i noticed was that when the pedal was pushed, there was what can only be described as turbulence in the reservoir. it looks like a jet of hyro oil is being forced back into it and not down the brake lines.this was worse if the cap was off. i've never seen this before so my assumption is that one of the seals has gone bad. ( although the master is 18 months old at best and only covered 200 miles ) any way i've ordered an non Britpart unit and hope this will sort the issue. mind you the one i fitted last tear was non britpart too. anything else i've missed.