ianmayco68

The switch isn’t on it’s way out is it ? Mine was doing that sort of thing and one of the terminals was loose then dropped off . How hard is it to move the lever from diff lock on to disengage it ?

Hi all , fitted the glencoyne mounts last week when I did the transfer box swap , I changed all 4 . The ones I took off were really hard couldn’t press my finger into them at all , and what a difference with the new ones fitted at idle the electric fuel pump and radio are louder than the engine , it hasn’t stopped the small amount of vibration that was there before but they have taken all the harshness out of it the floor plates don’t vibrate as bad as they used to , am well impressed. cheers Ian

When I rebuilt the 110 I repaired it and it was as bad as that needed to get a few more years out of it till I could afford a new one so I know the feeling.

It’s 57mm western on mine that’s from the gearbox to the outer edge of part 8 in the parts diagram above and I believe I’ve got the same setup as you r380 stumpy and 200tdi .

Cheers Ross , did find them while searching did a copy of them .

I had mine done at work , was told the acid dip doesn't remove the paint . I had mine blasted before I did the repairs and after acid dipping they said they had to remove some paint by hand . cheers Ian

Yep just had a read , they've changed the cable adjuster plate it fits on both bolts now . I put it on and the disc looked on the squif when I tightened it up .

There was a little bit of play in one so I've changed that today , trans box all fitted then tried to fit my x-eng disc hand brake couldn't fathom it out destructions have got really mucky so they weren't any help , got it on but disc doesn't sit square so off to the tech archive think I saw a write up in there , then just the glencoyne engine mounts to fit .

Can get you one tomorrow afternoon when I come back from work as I've just swapped my transfer box and the floor is still out . Wish I'd have seen it earlier as I've put the box on this afternoon , don't know whether you've had a look at it yet but had a similar problem and it was one of the pins that had come out . cheers Ian

Hi all , as I was taking the prop off and I fancy going fishing easter thought I'd bring the transfer box swap forward and do the mounts as well , so with the weather as it is finally got myself motivated this morning bout 11 took the prop off and the rear diff feels fine that only moves about 10 mm but does clunk when it reaches the end of its travel ,so it turns out the play was in the transfer box good call Ross . Its funny how the diff feels more controlled without the prop on and attached to the transfer box, anyway will fit the new box on tomorrow and hopefully all will be well still plan on checking the rear diff as advised above before I refit the rear prop just to make sure but hopefully I've found the culprit . cheers Ian

No problem mate .

Hi Pete it’s 40mm long with a 10mm hole and the hole center is 30mm from bulkhead , here’s a couple of pics for you as well. have you got the strap that goes from the steering column to the bracket? cheers Ian

No problem Pete will take you a photo as well .

I can measure the one on the bulkhead off my project tomorrow for you if you’d like ? But as said above I’d just make one .

Personally I would say yes as there is only the 2 bolts holding it were it attaches to the footwell and I would imagine in time with the stress of turning the steering wheel frequently you would eventually damage the footwell possibly even tear it loose as it would act as a pivot point when turning . cheers Ian

I got rid of the lift pump and fitted a facet pump , but that spacer that came in the britpart kit which was the last one I brought by mistake came in real handy , as it had a gasket glued to each end I used it behind the blanking plate I made to cover the lift pump hole up and I’ve had no leaks . At last something that britpart make that actually works .

Cheers all , looks like my Saturday afternoon after work is sorted, I’ll drop the oil remove the cover and prop then I’ll let you know what I find. cheers Ian

Will try that Ross .

Already checked the drive flanges Bowie69 there’s no play in them at all , the slop is at the axle output flange you can turn the propshaft about 30mm before it engages the gears inside the diff and it’s a loose movement as well . cheers Ian

No Ross haven’t tried anything other than eliminating the drive flanges and ujs, thought as I’d got a week off I’d look into what’s causing the clunk as the weathers normally pants Easter anyway ,and thought I’d get a heads up on what to check and any parts I could buy before hand to make life easier . I gather that’s a diff out job to check crown wheel and pinion wear ? Is that easy for a novice like me to check ? cheers Ian

Hi all , a while ago I posted up about a clunk when pulling away , on advice from on here I checked all the usual culprits ujs , drive flanges and all were ok and I got it down to slop in the rear diff which is quite a bit there’s 30mm travel before it engages in the gears internally and it’s quite easy to turn . It’s a 110 200tdi Salisbury axle by the way , so Easter I’m planning a transfer box swap and fitting glencoyne engine mounts as I’m on a weeks holiday and was wondering while I’ve got it apart and I don’t need it for a week is there any checks I can do to find were the slop is and things I can do to reduce it or parts that I can replace to help , the slop appears in the front drive flange could it be wear on the internal splines on this is it worth replacing it . Any advice would be much appreciated. cheers Ian

Cheers Nick I had a look at Discovery heaters 300tdi/TD5 but couldn't work out the size of them and if I could get one to fit , but it is still a possibility as I was planning on moving the fuse box from were it is now and building a custom loom . Have been looking into whether you could use a disco TD5 fuse boards one in the engine bay and then cabin one under the seat can't see why it wouldn't be possible and the bonus is the fuses and relays are wired in to the fuse box by a printed copper circuit so no wires to worry about .

Took these yesterday when I took the wife shopping , we didn't have lots of snow but as always happens by us when it snows and the wind is in a certain direction it all ends up in the road . The photo's are brill wife took them on her phone .

No apology needed Peaklander .

The heater in my 110 warms up quickly and puts out some heat I totally rebuilt the heater box when I rebuilt the truck , the main reason for looking was to make better use of the heat if I wasn't rebuilding the 90 I probably wouldn't have bothered looking at them but while I'm spending money on rebuilding that heater box on the 90 if I can purchase a unit that is better and more versatile then its got to be worth a punt . I personally think the way the standard heater works makes it easy to loose heat and the force of the air ,there are I liked the idea of the 4 output pipes direct from the blower you could run one to each screen vent and use the other two for side vents to the doors and the blower has a 3 speed motor and none of those fiddly cables, I've got one of them side window demister kits fitted it works but could be a lot better . cheers Ian