ianmayco68

Same as above bolted steel on to the rails with bits down to align the height, had no problems with the 110 body going on .

Cheers ballcock , hope yours fly’s through too, think positive will be watching for you good news posted up .

Cheers Toby , I get what you’re saying about it being personal every body’s needs are slightly different, which makes it harder to get rite and if you get it wrong the ride is not enjoyable at all . Did wonder about the isolators as the rear springs are bigger .

If the plate has tapped holes in it you could open them out and re tap them to m8 .

Hi all , I know this is a well covered subject and I’ve read a lot of posts about it , but I’ve already got it wrong once and thought I’d ask on here before I go out and spend my hard earned . So I’ve got a 110 200tdi sw it has a winch fitted and well have a roof rack fitted at a latter date it’s used for road work, fishing , carrying loads occasionally , towing occasionally and now I’ve joined a club it will be going green laning at least once a month . I fitted terrrafirma HD springs and shocks when I rebuilt her and it’s to hard a ride , I went down a dirt track in her and it nearly bounced me from the drivers side to the passenger side and back. If my thinking is correct there is no real need for me to fit a lift kit to her , so after some reading up I’ve come up with the following NRC8045 front will these be ok with a winch fitted ? BKB500300 green/white/white or would I be better with KRB101111 ? and Koni heavy track shocks all round standard length . Does anyone no the part numbers for the rubber tower isolation items I saw mentioned in another post ? So what do you all think is there any other suggestions? Any way to improve on what I’ve listed above ? All suggestions are most welcome as my brain is fried looking into this . cheers Ian

So what’s the highest you can take the boost safely on a 200tdi ? In the tuning guides I’ve read it says don’t go above 1 bar .

Britcar is a good place to find things out like this they usually tell you the size , if it’s obsolete , and the part number for the replacement part . According to it that part is obsolete and there are no newer alternatives but it says it’s a m6 x 15 Allen head screw . cheers Ian

Cheers all , no what you mean but feels even better when you emerge the other side with that white ticket and no advisories , it’s like a hole weight has been lifted off your shoulders .

I use trans-global trading regular had great service from him and your safe in the knowledge that it won’t come in a blue box because he doesn’t sell britpart only bearmach or genuine, have used inside out 4x4 as well and had good service from them .

https://www.turbosoutlet.com/actuator-tbo242 this is them Richard .

The company was called turbo outlet , I did have a look for you yesterday and they were out of stock but might be worth an email, if you can’t find them I’ll post the link up when I get home.

Well , it was that time of year again MOT , so the 110 has been on the road for 12 months now after her rebuild and she passed with no advisories yipeeeeeee . Am well pleased . cheers Ian

I managed to get a new one from Spain in the end Richard if you put the part number from the earlier post in google it should come up with the company , worked out to about £100 I think .

You might have to remove part of the dash , check the earths attached to the bulkhead in the engine bay and there will be some more earths attached to the bulkhead behind the instrument panel , I think as Mo said your going to have to take each thing wired into that fuse in turn and check the wires from end to fuse box . Don’t envy you on this one Sean it’s going to be a right pita . Also we’re all the wires from the fuse box go up behind the dash check at the bottom and were they come out the top in case they’ve rubbed on the dash .

Does the fuse pop as soon as you replace it , when you start the engine or when you switch on something specific? Have you noticed any pattern to it blowing .

The fuse box lid is the same as a 200tdi I believe, as its the same as my 110 . You should have a switch by your right knee for the interior light by the hazard switch ,have you checked that ? cheers Ian

Could you use the weld on bracket for the rear cross mem then fit it as it is now .?

I think that's been made by the previous owner , YRM do a replacement bracket that you have to weld on to the rear cross mem then there's a plate with the rubber mounting pin on that bolts on to the bracket https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-crossmember-exhaust-hanger-land-rover-defender/ this is the bracket https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-exhaust-bracket-1987-onwards-hot-dip-galvanised-land-rover-defender/

Glad you bot it sorted .

The system is set up as below the idea is to put one just before the inlet to the clutch servo ( marked here on diagram) , so it is set up like the brake servo . And once it has vacuum it can't lose it , as I have seen some pictures of ones fitted to td5's and they have a NRV actually fitted to the servo like the brake servo . cheers Ian

There is a non return valve on the tank but not one on the servo itself (like the brake servo ) , and as the system goes from the vacuum pump to the tank then to the brake and clutch servo's via the same hose ,so I thought that the problem could be caused by the fact that if your braking before you change gear the brake servo could be taking the vacuum out of the clutch servo as there is nothing there to stop it coming out of the servo and the system hasn't got time to recover before you change gear, and as there only £2.50 I thought it was worth a try . cheers Ian

Cheers western it’s not the hose I’m after but thank you , I’ve got a red booster clutch servo fitted and I want to fit a non return valve before the servo as there isn’t one . As I’m finding , brakes work fine all the time , on runs were I get up some speed for a length of time or if I leave her running for a while before I set off clutch works fine but if I start her and set off straight away I can have problems finding the gears smoothly . So as the brakes work fine and they have a valve on the servo thought I’d fit one before the clutch servo to see if it cures the problem . Cheers Ian

Think I've got a wiring harness in the shed somewhere , brand new from Autosparks brought it but didn't need it can have a look if you need it ? cheers Ian

Hi all , does anyone know the internal diameter of the pipe that goes from the vacuum pump to the servo please ? , to save me taking it apart . cheers Ian

Only asked about the lever in case it felt loose , wondered if the grub screw that sets the movement on the lever needed adjusting, there’s 2 one for diff lock and one for high / low box .