dave88sw

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the help, really appreciate it. Yes, in an ideal world we'd change out the head unit for something better but at the end of the day, this Discovery is used mostly for a bit of off roading fun and being a Land Rover, a decent sound system would be wasted on it. I've wired it up to the rear speaker outputs and it seems to be working very well. My friend is certainly happy with it so mission accomplished. Thanks again Dave

I'll probably upgrade the standard paper cone speakers to some 4" kenwoods, i'm certainly happy with mine with that setup. I don't think distortion is too much of an issue, i find i have mine on a much lower volume with the sub. As you say, all i can do is try it and if it doesn't work i'll have to rethink it. Thanks Dave

As said above, 2" lift and standard length shocks is bound to end up in breakages. Fit 2" lowered shock mounts or better yet extended shocks.

Hi, I've got a Kenwood underseat sub in my Discovery (just a little thing like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Under-Seat-150W-Active-Amplified-Powered-Subwoofer-Sub/171165909764?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 ) as well as the original rear sub and 4 speakers. Both the rear door sub and the underseat one run off the same pre-outs on the head unit (only 1 pair so split between the 2) and all works perfectly. My friend (who also has a disco) was with me in the car the other day and commented on how good the sound was and has asked if i'll do something similar in his disco. His disco was a base spec so has no rear door sub woofer (not a big issue really, the underseat one is better, i only wired my rear sub up because it seemed stupid to have it sat there doing nothing) and he has an aftermarket head unit with no rca outputs. Now, the sub i've linked to above is capable of taking pre-amp input or speaker level inputs. Is there any reason why i couldn't use the rear speaker feeds to drive the subs amplifier as well as the speakers themselves? Basically, do i have to sacrifice the rear speakers in favour of the sub or is it ok to have both, i imagine the subs amplifier is only using the feed for a signal and so wouldn't overload the head unit's built in amp? Thanks Dave

The vehicle will run quite happily with the wrong injector codes for the purposes of testing, although it is obviously best to programme the correct codes for prolonged use. If you have a working remote key matched to that specific bcu, there is no reason why it should end up immobilised. Take the eka for the vehicle the bcu was originally fitted to and keep it with whichever vehicle it ends up in. If the vehicle spec differs it can all be programmed later anyway, the vehicle will still run, the only bit that matters is whether its auto/manual.

If the 2 vehicles are the same spec, you can take the bcu, with a matched remote key and engine ecu from the working vehicle and it should start the other car. Unfortunately, the mileage is stored in the bcu and the instrument binnacle and if the 2 values don't match, the odometer will flash (if you have the whole car you could swap the instrument binnacle over). You can tell the bcu to update to fix the flashing odometer but it will take the higher of the 2 mileages as far as i know. If the car isn't responding to the remote key, have you tried a new remote receiver in the headlining?

As fridgefreezer says, the tdci box probably isn't the best suited. if you're going TDV6, why not look at the 6 speed Disco 3/4 manual box that will bolt straight up to the engine.

I had this problem on a salisbury and found that the diff cover plate isn't particularly expensive so it made sense to buy a new cover plate and filler plug.

http://www.mdengineering.co.uk/shop/adaption-kits/kit-215-lr-300tdi-engine-to-6-speed-mt82-gearbox/

I've noticed a similar thing with other brands. I've been trying to make a decision for weeks about tyres, initially deciding on the new (ish) cooper discoverer stt pro. However, i've watched lots of youtube videos reviewing them and when you compare the newer stt pro to the original stt, there is noticeably less tread on the newer one. I wonder if its something to do with road noise, perhaps the deeper tread increases the howl on the road? The only tyres that appear to have the very deep tread that you used to get across the board are the BFG's but my budget won't stretch to that.

It's almost certainly something to do with the wheel sensors. It's very easy to end up with too large an air gap on disco 2's as there's an o ring that seals the sensor in and without a light tap on the top of the sensor when fitting, they don't seat properly. The only way you'll know is to get it plugged into diagnostics, they're quite good at recording faults and usually will tell you if the air gap is too large. Alternatively, they don't like having mis-matched brands of sensor, particularly across the same axle, although you say it's had 4 new wheel bearing assemblies, they normally come with the sensors already in them so they should be the same.

Hi, I've recently fitted a new servo and master cylinder to my series 3 swb (dual line brakes). Prior to changing them it had very good pedal feel at the top of it's travel (full braking effort about an inch down) but it was weeping fluid from the join between the cylinder and servo. I've put a new allmakes servo and lucas trw cylinder on and bled with a pressure bleeder, running clean fluid through for a good 30 seconds per wheel with definitely no bubbles. I have very positive feeling brakes, no sponginess and the pedal doesn't sink if i hold my foot on the pedal, however, the "bite point" on the brakes is about halfway through pedal travel, 2-3 inches down. This doesn't seem right to me, the first half of the pedal travel offers zero resistance, is there anywhere i can adjust? I noticed the servo push rod has a threaded end but i'm not sure if that's factory set or whether i should play with it? Thanks in advance Dave

Changed the manifold to head gaskets today (took your advice bowie69 and bought composite with the fire ring) and unfortunately the noise remains unchanged. I'm tearing my hair out trying to find this, i've had the exhaust off this car in excess of 10 times since i've had the car. I must say, i think every time i've taken the y piece off, i've found evidence of a blow on the RH downpipe, is there anything i can do to get a better seal? All 3 studs are in good shape and i've done them up as tight as i dare, it looks like it seats ok when it's cold, i certainly can't see a gap and i used genuine gaskets last time. I know the advice is to not use exhaust paste upstream of the cats but will it hurt to use it sparingly? Alternatively, and i'm sure the answer will be no, can i do away with the cats? i hate the stupid things but i don't want it to fail the MOT. Thanks

Hopefully the manifold to head gaskets will do it then, thanks Hopefully not opening a can of worms here but whats the opinion on metal gaskets or composite ones in this application? Thanks

Well, sick of the noise i fitted another pair of downpipe gaskets today, genuine parts too and the noise is unchanged (although there was a witness mark on the rh gasket where it had been blowing slightly). Studying the manifold to head join there is a sooty mark on the rear port so I'll change them next. It is definitely a keeper, no rust whatsoever and I've megajolted it- it's one of the sweetest v8's I've ever driven. I am determined to get to the bottom of the noise, it's spoiling the lovely V8 sound. Thanks for the help.

Guess I should add, I have replaced the middle and rear sections recently with absolutely no change to the noise so that should rule that out. Cheers

Hi My 3.9 V8 Disco is driving me insane with a clacking sound coming from the exhaust. I'm trying to rule everything out before I throw money at a new downpipe with cats. I'm sure it never used to make this noise, the original cats started rattling and I replaced them with a good second hand set and initially all was ok but shortly after it started. When I fire it up from cold the noise isn't there but as it warms up it gets worse. It clacks under load when the revs are below 2000 rpm (it is definitely exhaust not engine, it's a tinny noise like a large golf ball rattling in the pipe). I've replaced the manifold to downpipe gaskets 3 times now and gunked up the downpipe to center box join as both seemed to have small blows but I'm confident it's now sealed. Any suggestions or does it sound like the cats breaking up? Just seems a heavy noise to be a cat and why only when warm? Thanks Dave

I can't think the car could have slipped into difflock. Although you don't have the linkage to activate it, a lot of boxes still had the lock fitted just without the link to activate it, however, to activate it requires a turn of a spigot that sticks out the top of the box, it's highly unlikely it could have slipped in. Regarding the sloppy gear selector, there's very little to the shifter that's inside the car, it just pushes and pulls on a cable. It's possible the bracket on the side of the box that holds the outer cable sleeve has worked loose or it could be the shifter arm on the side of the box has come loose on it's spigot. The position switch monitoring fault will almost certainly be the XYZ switch on the side of the box. If it gets wet it will play up. You'd normally find the "M" and "s" lights flash on the dash when it has a current fault with the switch but turning the ignition off and back on again will normally clear it. My experience is that the reverse track of the switch fails first as it has quite a high load on it with the reverse lights being fed off it. Thus it puts the m and s lights on every time you shift through reverse. To avoid it you can switch off and restart in neutral, shifting straight to drive.

They take much the same route on a RHD car and every one i've done i've had to take the radiator out, i don't think there's a quick way round it. It is only the main coolant radiator that has to come out though.

It sounds like you have a 300tdi edc engine. If this is the case, yes, you will still need to replace the throttle sensor. If it's not an edc engine, your problem is not electric, the non edc engine is entirely mechanical fuel injection so any issues with hunting (revs up and down) are down to the fuel injection pump.

Whatever you use will only need to hold the seal in place while you fit it. the seal should do the job of preventing leaks so to that end, any readily available rtv sealant would do the job. However, i will say, my favourite is reinzosil by Victor Reinz, it's easy to apply just a little bit (unlike silicone where you always seem to end up putting too much on), very sticky and spreads neatly when you bolt stuff up without oozing everywhere.

Brilliant, thanks very much, appreciate you looking it up .

Thanks again guys, i can mull over the cam choices before buying, whatever i go for as said will just have to have a distributor type front end the same as the original. The only thing i'm still a little confused about is whether a duplex chain will go in an interim front cover without alterations? Is the interim front end just as deep as the previous v belts front cover?

Ah ok, so using a p38 cam in my current cover isn't an option. I'm just finding it difficult to find information about an interim engine, mine is a serp so has crank driven oil pump but it did originally have a distributor. I've seen a few people say the issue comes with clearance to the oil pump in the front cover. It's looking more and more like i'll just have to stick with standard parts. Thanks

I agree the original type last well in as much as i've never personally experienced a broken chain but they seem to suffer stretched chains fairly quickly. I've been trying to find a bit more info on the alterations to the timing chest but it seems that some fit fine and others need a little grinding to clear. Can you confirm what type of cover you have? Is it serp/interim (serp but with dizzy)/v belt? If I can't make my mind up i'll just fit a good quality set of standard parts but a bit more longevity would be nice, the engine appears to be in otherwise good health and it's serviced every 3000 so i'm hoping not to go in again anytime soon. Sorry for all the questions, if i could afford to have the car off the road for long periods i'd just pull it apart and see what fits but realistically i need to get the job done over a few days so i'd really like to get all the parts lined up in advance. Thanks again.