dave88sw

I think that's actually the air suspension compressor inlet. Assuming that pipe is going up the lh rear quarter. Either way it should come apart as Bowie said

If you can get it plugged in that's the best place to start (Had similar rough running issues when the big capacitors in the ecu that fire the injectors fail - often comes up as "topside switch failure") Otherwise my guess would be injector seals, very common to misfire/cutout and then restart when everything has cooled.

Battery being drained and not recharging... Have you checked the alternator output? Or the condition of the battery?

I've fitted a couple of britpart ones for people and in all fairness, they appear to be pretty well made. One was over 2.5 years ago and it still looks like new, no paint peeling etc and a very reasonable price from island4x4.

Just to tie this thread up, it was a LH rear height sensor, replaced with a new genuine one and it's all working fine again... for now.

Picture borrowed from elsewhere, that's what you're looking for, you have to remove the reverse light switch to get an allen key in to tighten the grub screw.

When you say you have removed the top, do you mean you've removed the whole selector housing? You should be able to see inside the box through a rectangular hole if removed where i suggested above, not just the gearstick turret which you can remove seperately. Your symptoms fit with the grub screw coming loose. If it's not that, it's probably gearbox rebuild time.

I appreciate the offer but i've just emailed a breaker asking about a number of parts and he can do both for a very reasonable price so i think i'm all sorted. Thanks anyway.

I don't personally have any diagnostics yet, i'm trying to justify the cost of a nanocom to myself but i know a very knowledgeable man with testbook... It got me home fine and appears to still be trying to build pressure, it has stayed up all night too, the inflation kit is just for peace of mind in the future if it fails miles from home. As i say though, the compressor is running far too often (last trip i don't think it stopped at all) and with it's history a rebuild kit won't hurt. It might well be something else but the compressor has been on the to-do list anyway. Thanks

I hope you don't mind me tagging on this thread, my dads lost the grommet plates you have pictured above during his bulkhead change. I've just found the price for new ones (£30 each!!) and can't really afford to spend that much. Does anybody know the part number for the later td5 ones which are all rubber and just squeeze into the oval tubes behind? Or does anyone have a completely different alternative?

Thanks John, appreciate it. Took it out again tonight, starts off all working fine but compressor doesn't stop running, eventually flashes up eas fault, presumably when the compressor overheats. I'm guessing it's struggling to build pressure so i'll stick a rebuild kit in it before going any further. I'll stop using it for now. Can't really blame it, i think the previous owner ran it for months/years with leaking springs.

I knew i wouldn't get away with owning a P38 without some dramas... Bought it about a month ago and put 4 new dunlop airsprings on within the first few days. It then sat for 2 weeks untouched and didn't drop an inch. I've used it daily for 2 weeks, every morning it fires up and doesn't need to raise at all, compressor runs once and shuts off as expected. I can confidently say there are no leaks, it doesn't drop and the reservoir must hold pressure as it'll rise from access height to ride height in seconds first thing in the morning (i know most people say don't use access height but i need to in order to get my mum in and out). So, yesterday i drove it about 150 miles and all was fine, couple of stops dropping it and raising back up all fine, got in it today, drove about 4 miles and EAS Fault flashes up on the dash. It didn't drop and didn't give the "max speed 35mph" warning either. It would not respond to the dash buttons but was still periodically running the compressor and levelling slightly. Went back out to it about 15 minutes later and it's all working perfectly. I have noticed a couple of times sat in park with the engine running, the compressor will run 3 cycles and the car will dip half an inch and level again but didn't think much of it. So, i've just ordered 4 manual inflation valves to keep in the glovebox but what should i be looking for if it happens again? Thanks Dave

From my experience i'd guess the grub screw that holds the selector yoke onto the shaft has worked loose. It's not a particularly difficult job but it does require releasing the mounts and lowering the box an inch or 2 on a jack so that you can get the gear selector off the top of the box (it fouls the seatbox on the way out, if you'd rather you could remove the seatbox). Just follow the selector turret back to where it meets the gearbox and undo the 4 bolts that hold it on. You'll have to seperate the diff lock linkage too as this mounts to the gear selector. Once it's off, you'll be able to see the selector shaft and the yoke, it's held on by a single allen head grub screw which you'll need to remove, clean and refit with medium strength thread lock. You'll see the dimple in the shaft that the grub screw should engage in.

One point to mention, every bolt has a "top hat" shaped seal where it passes through the cover. Do not turn the rocker cover over while removing it and once removed, lay it on a bench/floor when you pull the old gasket off because all of those top hats will fall out. Lay the new gasket on the cover and push each of the tap hats through from the other side and they should hold in place.

Thanks very much guys, that's great, i'll get hold of some diodes and alter the wiring to the light. I appreciate the link to the rdx fix but £23 sounds a bit steep!

Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding my dad's 110 station wagon after about 8 years of sitting. I've just replaced all the lights for LED units and stuck a battery in to try them, after a couple of poor earth issues i have everything working but i have a strange problem with the indicators. If i indicate left, the indicator tell tale works fine but when i indicate right, despite the indicators themselves working fine, the tell-tale doesn't flash (it's a 92 110 so it uses the same tell-tale light for both sides). Can anyone point me to a wiring diagram so i can see how it's wired (i imagined the light was fed straight off the flasher relay before it's split by the indicator stalk to whichever side but that can't be true if it only works in 1 direction) or has anyone had the same problem and cured it? Thanks Dave

Perhaps i should have worded it differently :P, it is possible but I know of 2 people who have done it and both have said they'd take the body off next time or simply not take on the job. Not trying to scare anyone off doing one, it's just best to go into it knowing what's involved.

You are aware it's a body off job to fit an engine to a D3? It makes it virtually impossible to DIY it unless you have some serious kit.

Thanks very much for all the replies. Jon, the Volvo definitely is the most sensible choice but having taken it to 160,000 miles and a few niggles started appearing, i sold it, unfortunately anything newer (quite like the V70 that came after mine) is still fairly expensive. Still, it was definitely one of the best cars i've ever owned. Well, i took the plunge, bought a 51 plate Vogue 4.6 on gas. It has a full service history and has very recently had all the brakes done (discs pads and calipers all round), new air suspension compressor, cats, full exhaust etc etc. It did have a leaking airspring but i negotiated £300 off the price and i've just changed all 4. So far it's lost no water, runs smoothly and everything seems to work (right down to the heated seats, which is pretty unheard of). Useful to know about replacing the timer relay, what are the benefits of swapping it? Now that the springs have been changed, it doesn't drop overnight so the EAS doesn't have to work particularly hard. I'll take all the other suggestions on board, it's had blend motors and o-rings within the last couple of years so they should be good for a little while. I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes but i don't think i can lose too much at the price i paid... Cheers Dave

Really hate to say it but with no MOT they aren't worth all that much. The recent work will certainly make it easier to sell but it doesn't normally add much to the value. 90% of people will be looking for a car they can drive away. I've watched lots on ebay and anything without an MOT struggles to get £800, with one it's probably up to £2k depending on spec, an ES will fetch a bit more.

As the title really. I'm looking at possibly buying a 4.6 Vogue with LPG to use as a daily drive. I've worked on plenty over the years so know the fixes for most problems but realistically i have no idea what they're like to live with. Let's say i was to go through all the usual problem areas soon after buying (check/replace air springs, fit latest RF receiver etc), would it be naive to expect it to be fairly reliable? I currently drive a BMW 330 which is giving about 30mpg, if the range rover were doing around 12-15mpg on gas it should be similar cost wise to run. Can anyone recommend any modifications to make it more reliable? I've seen kits to put a schrader valve in each air line to the springs to allow you to inflate the air springs manually if it has a fault, are these worth getting to keep in the glovebox? I've read about (but never seen) a kit that prevents the air suspension functioning with the ignition off, presumably to prevent it dropping on all 4 corners if you get a leak on one spring? Thanks Dave

It's definitely something you have to consider these days when selling a car too. Any potential buyer can so easily check the MOT history, if anything relatively major has come up in the past (mainly rust) it's going to be very difficult to sell. Recently sold a disco 2 which had failed on rust in the rear end, therefore had to take detailed photos of the repairs that had been done (it was a very good job) or most people wouldn't bother viewing. I can understand it from both sides, i've dismissed cars that have previously failed on rust because most repair jobs are pretty poor.

Exhaust touching chassis?

Hi, I've been given a 19J Defender to sort out for somebody. I was told it had started playing up and eventually refused to start at all, i checked everything fuel wise, had decent fuel supply to the injection pump and the solenoid definitely opened but nothing made it to the injectors. So i've changed the pump for a second hand unit and i'm at the point where i need to put the timing belt on. Now, i know where all the marks are on the relevant pulleys, that's easy enough to line up but i've never actually done a 19J belt before (loads of tdi's), the pump is mounted on slots, which suggests it's adjustable on these slots to advance/retard. Is there any way to lock the pump in the right position, like the TDI, or do i adjust the final position of the pump afterwards until it runs right? I have searched endlessly online and despite threads being titled 19J, the advice appears to relate to TDI's, there is no hole in the front of the pump for a timing pin. Thanks Dave

The fuel coolers often leak from the o rings that seal the end caps. I'd have a pressure test done and make sure i'm 100% certain it's not leaking out but if it all tests fine for leaks your only option is to take the head off.