lo-fi

Mine were for series, but they may be the same part. I ended up turning down the ends of the pins as I needed quite a stack of shims even with the thin washers. The fault there was the pins being too long, though, so worth checking yours for wear.

The EAC railcos are the best I've found. Mine came with two thicknesses of washer, which on my castings required using the thinner one. Sounds like you'd want the thicker option. Can't go wrong with Timken either.

What's your budget?

I know of a few for sale here and there if you're interested in a project?

Cost effective welding gas. Much less hassle than trying to borrow co2 from a pub: https://hobbyweld.co.uk/ Dealers all over the country, much cheaper than BOC.

Holy thread revival, batman! Also, with respect, absolute nonsense: Increasing the compression ratio does not shift the power band or trade torque for bhp. It improves just about every aspect of performance throughout: http://www.imedpub.com/articles/influence-of-compression-ratio-on-the-performance-characteristics-of-a-sparkignition-engine.pdf Agreed that low compression does allow running on poor fuel, the likes of which likely aren't available anymore.

Some sage advice already. Don't get too hung up on the numbers, but the takeaway from doing the calcs is "longer is better" for this application. Hehe my comments on that diesel manifold being less than ideal. With the injector, larger isn't always better. You can run into trouble with the injection time at very low loads being so small compared to the time it takes the injector to open and close that you don't get consistent injection. Best to size it for 80% duty cycle at your estimated horsepower, plus a bit of headroom, but don't go too nuts.

Rear crank seal... Can you not measure it and buy a Corteco seal? Many tears when that fails

Yes. It's to give old grease somewhere to go when it's been over packed by over enthusiastic squaddies. Quite normal.

Got to be a return spring is broken and the weight of the pedal is causing it to throttle up.

The Sandringham has that bonkers "crown driving a pinion" thing for the very rear axle, doesn't it? The volvo method is the right way to do it... No wonder he's paranoid about wind up!

I'd buy some prints!

Fantastic find. I've been cutting some gears myself lately: Next up are helicals. I needed to cut a lot of spur gears to drive the dividing head from the table feed first, though. Gear tech is a fascinating subject.

Be careful. Intake requirements for diesel and petrol are quiet different. Short intake runners will rob you of many low end torques, smoothness, efficiency and ponies. Plugging numbers in here highlights that you want looong runners. You're not trying to build a high rpm race engine. I've seen first hand what happens when this is ignored - funnily enough on a carb > efi converted engine. Guy built himself a very clever manifold that sat right in the valley all nice and neat with multi point injection. Intake runners of about 1.5". It ran like utter garbage. Popped, farted and backfired off idle no matter what the settings, gutless through mid range, disappointing even screaming, guzzled fuel. 70bhp (flywheel) from a freshly rebuilt 2.8 litre engine with a brand new Kent cam. Swap to an original carb manifold with single point throttle body injection and she woke up. Different engine. Smooth, torquey, powerful. Have a play with the calc, it'll show you the way to a good result Something similar to that diesel manifold might kinda work, but it'll be a long way from optimal.

Having been in court as a witness in a motoring case and embarrassed the opposing barrister with basic geometry and some simple maths, I doubt you'd have too much to worry about should the worst happen. It's well engineered and interpretably within the ill-defined guidelines.

That'll come in handy!

Don't call him Shirley I have a mate who loves the smell of EP90. He's wifeless, so various people have made him EP90 scented things over the years. Air fresheners, candles - even cologne!

Ah, wait. You mean the engine is idling faster when at sea level? That's because for a given throttle opening, more air is entering because its denser. More air, more fuel, more power. You could make some removable shims for the throttle stops. Just remove at low altitude and replace when you go back up. A piece of sheet brass cleverly cut, folded and soldered ought to do it.

Worth mentioning that Google maps now shows you the speed limit too. Not always right yet, but I've not had it show higher. And the traffic info is incredible. Why you'd buy a single purpose, dumb sat nav device for domestic use these days baffles me.

That shows up as runs terribly all the time. You usually get the opposite problem where its tuned for ~sea level elevation and gets bad when going up high.

The floor? Good call, though. I keep a few compartmentalised boxes handy to organise things for reassembly.

I suspect so. There's no altitude compensation on the Stromberg (or most carbs for that matter) so if you've got it right for where you live up high, it'll be rich down low. You've got relatively few options for easy adjustment and none that won't involve twiddling stuff with tools when you transition. How bad is it?

Congrats getting it out and about again!! Pop it down to Richard at RT Gaigers in Daneshill if you want someone who understands to give it a once-over. He's a top bloke, into old motors (VW) himself. Used him for my MOT's for years. As a general point of order: I think as Land Rover owners we miss the point with the exemption, despite technically qualifying. Genuine historics (I don't class a land rover as one myself) are often so far removed from what the modern MOT man is used to looking at as to make it useless. It adds nothing. Old Crossley with a wooden chassis? How exactly do you inspect that for corrosion? Trafficators? What are they? Friction dampers? What?? Cases like this I absolutely agree with the exemption. Fusty old tight-arses driving round half knackered landys pleased as punch they've saved £45 a year on an MOT, fist sized hole in the chassis, brakes that barely work(...) and with nobody checking up on it, I'm not so thrilled about. No reflection on Fridge - we all know the type!

We'll call him Trump. Because nobody had a flipping clue how he got there.

Que some kind of rotary jig build to turn it upside down for welding.... Much box section. What's the plan? Cage, portals and viking winch? hehe Always liked the SD1. My tech teacher at school had one, I thought it looked great with its sleek wedge shape.