lo-fi

Big Green Book, but yes. You can find in PDF online, but it's worth buying.

The workshop manuals are big and green

The measurements you want are in the BGB. Measurements from vehicles are going to be worse than useless as you don't know how much the springs may have sagged, whether they were to spec to begin with, if the bushes are worn or a host of other little factors.

Cheers, no hurry at all

Yep, the more modern planetary type direct driven by the crank. The "intermediate" housing still has a dizzy mount, but no oil pump drive underneath. The later one deletes the dizzy hole completely and moves the water pump back into the space freed up along with a much shorter pulley arrangement.

Sounds like a nice build, do throw a thread up! Something I've thought about myself. Might be interested in the intermediate cover if you're ditching?

The difference is in the pulley and cover, not the crank. The non dizzy cover sits the water pump further back and uses a pulley without a forward extension. You only run into issues trying to fit either serp cover onto a non serp engine.

The later MS version are decidedly less DIY friendly and expensive for what you get. The torch for genuine, affordable DIY EFI has been picked up by Speeduino. It even does sequential injection, if you must. MS is in a no-mans land these days: Expensive enough that you're almost in the territory of proper commercial offerings, but commercial enough in itself that it's edging out of DIY hands. Having used Speeduino, MS of all versions, Emerald (briefly) and Link, I'd not choose MS for any new project these days. Sounds like Speeduino will do all you want for a very reasonable price. If you have a bit of budget, you want all the toys and a reliable, well supported ECU, look no further than Link.

That's a no from me, then. There's literally no reason to be doing it that way that isn't entirely nefarious and opens the door for abject abuse down the line. Not now, not ever. Never.

I've thus far avoided doing anything to my land rover. Doesn't break/I don't know its broken if I don't drive it! Hehe. I've got this job to do for a mate who has one of those carbs. Is it adorned with seven kinds of strange and apparently pointless solenoids?

On a purely practical note: be mindful of the points system. You've already lost points on steering, gearbox, engine and brakes. Swapping only 1 axle is still another two points lost, leaving only chassis and suspension. Not lecturing, just a quiet reminder. Also: it would be easier to fit leaf springs and inset rad panel to a 90. Just as food for thought...

There's no nut, the input gear is mounted in the transfer box in dual bearings. The threaded end on the LT77 mainshaft is not used in this application.

I gave up with hammewrong years ago. I'm sure they changed the formula around mid nineties and its never been the same. POR15 is good, providing prep instructions are followed to the letter and you don't try putting it on pristine metal. If you do, it'll just peel off like PVA glue from fingers. The solvent and prep solutions come with dire health warnings though, and the thinners are more expensive than new brushes. I've yet to try Buzzweld. Interested what the bad experience was? Rustoleum, plasticoat and suchlike are OK for the odd garden ornament, but fall very short on anything serious. I'm not entirely sure direct to metal is a great idea, at least not in forms thats hobbyist friendly and won't kill you without an air fed respirator setup. Anything good, even etch primer, comes with some stern warnings, much as its gleefully handed out to hobbyists. That being said, I'm no fan of red oxide primer either. I'll be following with interest as I've got a chassis and bulkhead to do... I'm almost of the mind that it's worth investing in the proper air fed kit and going 2K epoxy stuff. That seems to be the magic bullet if there is one.

Pretty much this. The pressure fluctuation as the flow in the intake runner stops and starts helps with atomisation. The angle the injectors sit at in relation to the ports is kinda important, but not super critical unless you're trying to squeeze every last drop of euro rating out of your fuel, as is flow pattern.

It's how most fuel injection up to the very modem stuff works. There's vanishingly little advantage to sequential injection, as Bowie says above, for the simple reason that at anything more than very moderate loads the injectors are open significantly more time than the inlet valves. There are many things to complain about in Land Rover fuel injection systems, but batch fire injection is very low on the list.

Few musings: A good reason for removing material from the trailing shoe would be to increase pressure by making the contact area smaller to compensate for the anti servo effect. The logical place to do this is the trailing end of that shoe, but we're talking about Land Rover here . Don't expect it to have any credible thought put into the design or construction After market parts even less so. Every time I look at something and think "well that's just jeffing stupid", I have to remind myself what I'm looking at, move on and call it "charm".

Isn't the missing part of the puzzle that IVA doesn't just apply to modified vehicles? Import, for example. Isn't this actually aimed at imported vehicles over ten years old that don't come with an accessible homologation cert? Don't forget the brexit card here: there's probably something about importing vehicles on EU homologation certificates. Probably to grease the wheels as we leave that with nothing else in place just like everything else.

Thanks for reviving, I'd not seen this thread before!! Comedy gold right there. I have a workshop related tale or two to add... An old mate of mine is almost as accident probe as dear Nige. It started with a Land Rover. A V8 Series 3 88. I owned it, then sold it to said mate who took it apart to do a little work. We had a small workshop back in the day when such things were available for cash prices, and he had it parked up on stands and was busy running old paint and wax off the chassis. Unknown to me, he was under there with a twisted wire wheel on a 5" grinder. No guard. You can guess what's coming... Grinder grabs, knocks itself out of his hands, lands square on his chest and tries to eats its way through his ribs. Luckily it twisted up his t-shirt and stalled, but he still bears the scars to this day. Then came the saga of the axles. Having owned that landy for a year, I'd had little trouble with it. I'd been tearing around the place and parked it up ready for my mate to pick up. He got in it, ragged it round the car park, went to reverse it and PANG went a rear half shaft. He found some complete axles going cheap, which got delivered as a job lot of two front and one rear on a home made stand. The delivery method was a bit hit and run, leaving the axles stranded in the middle of a grassy area outside the shop. Engines cranes don't like being loaded and rolling over grass much, so rather than doing the sensible thing and freeing them from the stand, hoisting them and popping a trolley under one at a time, he hatched a brilliant plan.... I still have no idea what possessed him to nail the engine crane to the rear of a large single axle trailer, leaving half the legs hanging off the end in an effort to gain enough reach to lift a few hundred kilos of axles, but that's what he did. Slowly but surely, up came one end of the stand, mate stood on the trailer pumping away at a grumbling engine crane. Then the fateful moment. He stopped, stomped forward to observe progress, realising his mistake all too late. The trailer no longer balanced, and the front began to rise... Quickly. In an effort to arrest this process, he flung himself backwards, just as the trailers attempted back-flip reached its maximum speed before the rear hit the floor, ejecting him clean over the crane and axles to land on a large pile of broken bricks left by the previous tenants. Luckily he narrowly avoiding being crushed by a flying engine crane, now free of its nails in the trailer floor and boosted by the rear of the trailer into a graceless arc over the axles it was still lashed to as the trailer front returned to the floor. I nearly passed out from laughing so hard at that one!

Ah, missed that. It's a little on the high side, but not crazy. Best replaced anyway as you've got the first signs of spline wear and lack of cross drilling. Might be worth checking that the intermediate shaft holes aren't worn oval.

Tiny bit of wear, but nothing serious there. May even have been changed at some point in its life. How much play are we talking? Half mm, or more?

Lol. True dat. Interested to see how OP gets on.

Yes, both the splines on the box and on the inside of the input gear. Post some pics? Not always detectable by feel. There will always be some backlash, but unless it's really gross I doubt the clunk you're hearing originates there. Spline wear or worn diff are often culprits, but they're a bit agricultural at the best of times.

They look fine @Bigj66 What you're seeing there is "profile shifted" teeth. Without getting too technical (I'm a bit of a gear nerd), the tooth profile has been designed to give the teeth a larger, stronger root, which makes them more "pointy". Quite common practice. What you need to check is wear on the inside splines. I have yet to see a set that aren't ruined and in need of replacement.

Does it actually work like that, though? I mean does the ECU continue leaning the mixture beyond normal operating temp. Most after start enrichment systems are pretty much done once ~60C is reached, so that doesn't seem quite right. Not often anyone is looking to make an engine leaner! Agreed that you're going to get the best result from a Megasquirt setup. It's probably well worth the investment. And for what it's worth, I put a carb setup from a 3.5 on a 3.9. I had to machine custom needles as I couldn't get enough fuel into it with the needles available. The 3.9 heads and manifolds are cast far more precisely than the old 3.5, so it's not just that lost half litre of displacement you're compensating for - they flow better too.

Indeed, it does depend on how rich! But... To be bad enough to be noticeable without a sensor of some kind, it's ~9.5:1 or worse. Which is horrific. Knocking it down a bit with a regulator ought to mirror the change in air density relatively uniformly. If in doubt, pop a volt meter on the lambda output - it's easy on a narrow band sensor.