Bigj66

I might borrow a mig and give that a go just to compare.

Did you move your front panel forward?

Great cheers 👍

Is there a particular position the P38 box needs to be positioned on the series chassis when converting to power steering? On some conversions it seems to be just forward of the axle strap attachment bracket but I’m not sure how accurate that is. Is there a reference point to work from for distance and height?

2.5mm Rod @ 50amp. Getting closer.

I see what Gazzar was saying about heat distortion 😳

2.5mm Rod @ 45 amps. The bead is higher but it’s getting harder to strike the arc at the lower current. I need to improve my finishing technique too as I think I’m hanging about for too long at the end of the run.

2.5mm E6013@ 140 amp. I think this is pretty self explanatory. So I knocked the current down to 60 amp again and this looks a lot more promising. The battery tray I’m practicing on is 2.5mm

Hmmm...my first ever run. E6013 1.6mm rod @ 60 amps. Unless I’m being asked to replicate bird s**t then I have some work to do🤦‍♂️ I think my speed was too fast and electrode distance too far.

Ah okay, I understand now. With these rods I should be able to weld upwards vertically but not downwards? I think I’ll order a pack of the multi directional ones as I think I’ll be needing them for some of the jobs I have to do. I’ll look around for a suitable rod number and post it up here before buying.

Cheers Stephen These E6013 rods are supposed to be for both horizontal and vertical welding but I wasn’t aware of the need to reduce amperage so thanks for that tip. I’m going to have a play with my welder on my old crossmember and some scrap so 🤞Joe

I’m going to give stick welding a go for the first time today and, in preparation, I’ve been reading up on the topic and looking at various YT videos. With respect to the amperage required for different thicknesses of rod, I read about a rule of thumb that for every 1mm of rod diameter you should use about 30amps current. Any stick welders that can confirm that or give me some similar guidance? I bought two packs of E6013 rods 1.6mm and 2.5mm. My understanding is that the smaller rods can be use for things like chassis welding where the plate thickness is 2-3 mm and the thicker rods for things like engine mounts at 4-5 mm thick plate? I just want to check that this is correct before I have a practice.

I’ve just freshened up the roof of the 110 with the Paintman products. Good quality paint and I also bought their tack rags and panel prep as they recommended. I’d use them again👍

Great thread, following with interest 👍 I think the custom car guys use kits to retrofit air suspension systems so that could be worth looking at if you’re still after non LR components. Trying to imagine a Series 3 on air....🤔

I’m not sure if this is of any help but I disconnected the alternator on my Thor 4.0 yesterday and noticed it only had two connections one heavy brown to the battery and a thin brown and yellow to terminal D+. If you can trace the WG wire that isn’t required and either strip it out or disconnect it then it should be safe.

I have one of these in my S3, it’s a great piece of kit.

I fitted a complete auto sparks loom to the 88 a few years ago and I can’t fault it. It came apart this afternoon just as easily as it went in. I wouldn’t play around with decades old wiring, just bite the bullet and fit a new one.

I looked seriously at converting mine to electric but the cost of doing the job properly is unbelievably expensive for a hobby car but it would have been a great project to do.

Yep, great thread 👍

As above, suspect the carb.

Yes. IF the autobox can be made to fit otherwise I’m going Old School V8 to series box conversion kit with 3.54 diffs. And I’ve just got myself a decent 4.0 Thor engine today too 👍

I’ll probably uprate the rear shafts and take my chance with the fronts as 4 WD will only be used very rarely.

Agreed and I’ve sourced a pair of 3.54 diffs now. The only thing I’m waiting on is to find a decent engine or donor vehicle.

The injectors can be removed from the engine and sent for testing of the spray pattern with refurbishment of the tips if required. This may sound simple but if your movements are restricted then it could be some time before you can get this done. The head refurbishment you can do yourself unless specialist work is required and replacing valve stem oil seals is quite straightforward and is covered in various manuals such as Haynes. You Tube is a helpful resource if access to other services is limited. Replacement of a timing chain and gears is also within the scope of DIY so don’t be afraid to give it a go. Landrovers were designed for such scenarios. You have global access to people who can offer advice and support via this very forum so don’t be afraid to ask 💪🏻. One other thought, how are your glow plugs and wiring? Have you tested them to check they are working correctly for cold starting?

You’ll notice that my threads have a habit of wandering away from the initial post 🤣 and in this case the thought was to uprate the 2.25 however this has now moved on to the installation of a ZF auto behind a V8 and try to shoehorn it into the SWB. The V8 will have the power I’m after and the PAS pump so no issues there and a P38 steering box will be fitted as part of the project. The diffs will be changed to 3.54s whichever way I go with the gearbox.