Bigj66

I was thinking about binning the ECU and just using the pump and accumulator from a P38 without the ABS block. Yes, you’d need to install a bias valve to get the balance set up correctly and then.... Stick it in a Series with discs all round 😬

Do you think it would be possible to delete the TC and ABS function and just use the pump?

Just to clarify, it was standard with TC and ABS on my Rangy but I’ve heard of just the electric pump being used on its own on other makes such as Ford but not any from Landrover.

For me it’s the better pedal feel that the pumps give compared to the servo and master cylinder. I had this on my soft dash and it was night and day compared to a servo setup. Same as an aftermarket electric brake booster, quite common in the States.

Interesting topic this as I’ve always wondered if it’s possible to replace a standard servo and master cylinder with a pump and valve block from an ABS vehicle but without using the ABS or TC? Ive seen it done on old Fords but not Landrovers.

How did you get on with this throttle cable on your Thor engine?

I need the series top spline to keep my wheel and dash standard which is why they do the joining of the two systems at the bottom of the upper column. So they cut off the worm drive and weld on the spline.

I’d like to keep my series upper column when I do mine but I thing there’s a certain measurement I need for having the upper column inner welded to the P38 splined section to fit into the UJ. I thought I saw something on YT a while ago but I can’t find it so will keep looking unless anyone has those details?

I have what I think is the non dizzy SERP cover sat here along with the crank pulley etc. I know the pulleys are wider on my Thor engine but not sure of the other differences. I can take some measurements or photos if you need anything, just shout.

Truck cab looks great 👍

Planet gears off the diff I presume? I’d just want a shorter version of the shaft itself and wouldn’t want to be stripping a diff down so I’ll give them a call first.

Was it GB who made these for you?

Is the cable sheath kinked or damaged at some point between the lever and the valve? This could cause the inner cable to bind so check the run of the cable to make sure it’s not being bent at an awkward angle behind the dash.

How does it work with the CV joints in the lightweight swivels or have you changed your axle to a stage 1? Apart from the larger brakes, I s there a difference between the hub assembly on a Stage 1 to that of a standard 2.25 series? scrub that, I’ve just found the answer to my own question. Yes there are vehicle specific parts for the Stage 1.

With regards to the rear brakes, will the stub axle, calliper bracket, disc and hub off a disc braked Defender 90 bolt to the axle case of a SWB series vehicle? I’ve read some threads about rear disc conversions but they all seem to relate to Salisbury axles and 109s. Putting the issue of half shaft length to one side for the moment. I did find this from Jon White in a thread from a couple of years ago but I’m wondering why the complete Defender parts cannot be used? im using, early 90 drum braked rear stubs, with Range Rover disks hubs and Calipers. I used the Caliper brackets from a disk braked Salisbury rear from a 110 which bolt on after thinning them down by a couple of mm to get the disks correctly aligned (can’t remember the measurement sorry, but it’s easy enough to fly cut a bit off of them on a milling machine). Use 24spline shafts, early “thick” defender drive flanges and it all bolts up.

I’m fitting a Thor 4.0 to my Series 3 and will be using MS to run it. If you are looking for a supplier of GEMS or Thor V8 engines then let me know.

I did but they only had a very limited amount of stuff for the V8 so I went with JLR £££s and some Bearmach stuff. Some of the JLR items you can only purchase in minimum quantities of 5 🤷‍♂️

I’ll probably bite the bullet and go with JLR individual items. No guarantees of course but it does lower the risk a bit.

No, everything but the heads just to check the internal condition of it which is spotless otherwise I’ll end up stripping the engine down completely for no reason and then where will it end? I’ll just button it back up after cleaning and painting the ancillaries and then see how it runs. I think this engine is either very low mileage or has just been rebuilt to a high standard. It even came with Magnecore leads so someone hasn’t scrimped on maintenance.

I do the same when I assemble parts 👍 What I don’t want to do is end up having to strip the engine down again because a piddling little O ring is leaking.

Cheers although I don’t need the head gaskets as the heads haven’t been removed although I will probably keep a set in stock just in case. It’s the full kit of gaskets, seals and O rings that I’m after just to put the engine back together. I can buy most items separately and JLR still do genuine ones at a price but I’ve no idea which aftermarket brands are ok to use and I always try to avoid the cheap Britpart ones if I can.

Where is the best place to buy a full gasket set for the engine reassembly? There are tons of suppliers out there but I’m after a decent set of gaskets and seals etc that will do the job properly and not fail after half an hour. I know I will need to buy the sump gasket and upper manifold gasket separately as I have the Thor engine but that’s no drama in itself. Can anyone recommend a quality aftermarket brand based on experience or am I best just biting the bullet and going for the more expensive Landrover kit?

I think it would have gone beyond the flare and possibly compromised the security of the water hose. Finding the right size barb fitting and tapping the manifold shouldn’t be too onerous.

It’s out and an 8mm hole.

Cheers, I really don’t want to leave it as it is.