Bigj66
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Posts posted by Bigj66
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1 hour ago, steve b said:
M10 fine (1.0 ?) for later series brakes
Steve
Just tried M10 and they don’t fit either. The UNF ones I have are 3/8 x 20 🤔
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What size are the brake pipe fittings for the S3 rear wheel cylinders? I thought they were 3/8 UNF but they won’t screw into the cylinder.
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On 12/1/2020 at 10:58 AM, tuko said:
For a correct reading aren't you suppose to replace the Black drive gear with a Blue one? ....... I will be installing a Disco t'case in my Def soon and this was my understanding.
Todd.
I’ve done that on mine 👍
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You can get special tools like this that will allow you to take the terminal out without damaging the plug.
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Or buy a good used one from a breaker.
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1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:
Do you recommend any particular make of filter, Escape? Marginally worried about my front axle in the 90, a shorter filter will definitely fix it.
This is on my Series 3 with a Thor engine. Mine is road going only though so if you’re planning on going off road then you’ll need to check your clearances.
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12 hours ago, garryc said:
I've got a later LT230 with the digital speedo sender which I need to convert to a manual sender to link to my Lightweights (series 3) speedometer. I know I need to think about the number of teeth etc; and i'm really grateful for previous posts on the forum advising on formula to work out which one I will need based on diffs and tyres. But my initial question is can I simply replace the electronic transducer with a geared one which will take a series speedo cable? Or am I looking at this wrong and has anyone a better suggestion? I do want to keep my series speedo. I've looked at digital and GPS but I'd like to retain the look of the series dash.
As ever, thank you for your kind assistance.
I did this recently. You have to file the end of the series speedo cable down to fit into the defender gear and then secure it to the LT230 using the correct clip and bolt.
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Can anyone with a V8 Thor P38 identity this plug please?
It’s located very close to the fuse box in the engine compartment and is connected by one blue/red wire to the pink multi plug on the underside of the fuse box.
Rave suggests that it might be related to something called ‘ship disable’ 🤷♂️
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1 minute ago, Bowie69 said:
Yep, just disconnect it, twill be fine.
No fault codes or limp modes?
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Does anyone know how the evaporative emission canister purge valve system works on a P38 4.0 Thor engine?
Is it some sort of pressure relief for the fuel tank?
If the solenoid on the engine was to be disconnected from the loom then will the engine still run ok or will it cause problems for the ECU?
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Apparently Rave does work on an iPad 👍
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If I want to lift anything I use one of these bad boys 😉
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the P38 Thor engine and fuse box they can point me towards?
I think Rave only runs on Windows doesn’t it?
I need the engine loom, starting circuit and fuel pump wiring if possible, cheers.
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On 11/2/2020 at 2:29 PM, elbekko said:
Do they have enough room to get one of those barge-mounted cranes in there? Might be easier than reaching that far...
Like this one....? 🙈
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I’m still working on the one from LD1 🤦♂️
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1 hour ago, Blanco said:
To add to the sum of info on the engine loom I have two pics showing the layout for the diesel,
Main engine loom emerges from the FIP, down on the RH side of the block as viewed, under the inlet manifold, crosses the engine on the support at the front and goes through a large grommet into the ECU box, it terminates in the large rectangular clip on connector that mates to the ECU.
Close up of the top of the ECU connection, it just lifts out of its box, normally held under a screw down cover.
Definitely different to what I have here, cheers 👍
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I used the Mudstuff bar and seat rails in my 110.
Best conversion you can do if you’re tall IMO.
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News from Bearmach is that the part numbers for the two pipes are PBP101240 and PBP101180.
NLA from LR🙄
Still available as aftermarket though so will order one in to check.
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2 hours ago, Escape said:
I've had a look at the partscat and through memory lane 😉 to see if I could find anything useful.
There are indeed 2 types of cooler, before YA (with several superceding part numbers) and from YA on. But the pipes should be the same, PBP500260 and PBP500270. The O-rings in the connections are all the same, so size/thread should be the same on both coolers. Could the cooler you have be an aftermarket one? I don't have a late P38 in at the moment, but could ask to have a look at a mates.
Filip
It aftermarket in that I bought it from Bearmach but I’m pretty sure it’s correct as Blanco has the same on his.
LR must have made an earlier version of that pipe but if they are no longer available and have been superseded with the M18 version then why are Bearmach still selling them? 🤷♂️
I’ll need to call them tomorrow and find out.
This is mine with a brand new PBP500260 pipe against it. The rigid pipe and seal fit inside okay but the nut is just too small 🙈
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14 hours ago, o_teunico said:
Hi all,
Been some months without visiting the forum.
Due to limited budget I'm selling some parts of my 88 project. Cost of parts not a problem, but obtaining an engineer's approval here in Spain for beeing road legal is over three times what I paid for the landy!
Big modifications, like coiler axles, engine swap, big tyres are now out of the list for me.
My "wide" axles will be just big offset wheels (that is about 150€ for the engineer's report + 70€ at MoT station for the new track width beeing written in our V5 equivalent).
So, how can I (cheaply) convert my Santana (factory disc brake) to CV?
After some searching at this forum I undestand that converting railkos to bearings and some grinding will make space for AEU2522 CVs.
But, what about stub axles?
I dont want complete coiler swivels, since I have a Santana PAS that will only work with series swivels.
Gremlin said that early RR stubs fit series swivels, done before in this forum. Who? How? Part numbers? Difference between early RR and later coiler parts?
TIA
To use AEU2522 CVs you are better using the early Defender stub axle as long as you have the metric series hubs. To use the RRC stub axles you need to machine the seal landing off the shaft. With the Defender stubs you don’t.
I’ve just done it on mine but you need to have the swivel housing machined slightly to open up the aperture to fit the stub axle or, have the stub axle turned down to fit inside the swivel housing. I chose the first option as that allows the CV to be removed through the swivel but you could also dismantle the swivel to get to it that way.
You will also need 24 spline drive members and 10/23 spline halfshafts. DDE supply them or have Defender ones shortened.
Take a look at my thread here
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21 minutes ago, Blanco said:
Right, excuse the slight delay, your pic had me scratching my bonce.... went back out and realised I had been ooking at the transmission cooler! so investigated a bit further and this is my engine oil cooler, tucked in between the intercooler and the condenser
I did try and get the caliper in there but its pretty congested, I made two guages out of plastic and I am fairly sure its 22mm rather than 20mm.
rigid pipes are a shade under 17mm. Both fittings are on the LH side of the vehicle and the unit.
Do you have any details of your vehicle that you can share via PM that might allow me to narrow down the search to find a part number?
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23 minutes ago, Blanco said:
Fairly close, ... one on the bottom I think and one on the inboard side, but yes both really on the inboard side.
This is mine.
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1 hour ago, Blanco said:
Mine being late model auto is different again, 20mm threaded bosses on mine, seems they are all different.
Out of curiosity, does yours have both threaded bosses on the same side?
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22 minutes ago, Blanco said:
I'll have a quick look under mine in a minute, but my parts book has PBC000020 as diesel manual cooler, and the corresponding pipes as PBH101750 and 760???
Cheers I’ve not come across those hose numbers before so I’ll check 👍
Rear brake cylinder fittings
in Series Forum
Posted
They are 3/16 👍