Gremlin

Put the rubbers on the wheel cylinders. To relese the shoes just open the bleed nipples and back off the adjusters. What nick said usually applies to rears, if you switch them you get into all sorts of problems getting the shoes to adjust correctly. Do not give up, when set up correctly series brakes are as good as any other brake system and will stop a fully laden 109 just fine. G

Sikaflex will be a real pain to remove and clean, i used sealant by wurth its specific for windscreens G

Damn, i was beatin to it! G

Change your flexible hoses, they are acting like one way valves. G

Not really, you can change the skin, but you have to cut the series ones up to fit the arches as the wheel opening is a different shape. The front part is also a bit different. Its doable but its a lot of work. I modified series mud gaurds to fit 110 inner arches. Basically they are completely different but with work you could make them fit. G

Hmmm funny you say that, but if the filter was good for a turbo diesel engine, why would the filtration levels not be enough? for a tdi?? Are the filter microns different? please eleborate on this. I personally run dual filters, but thats me. G

My mounts are defender items but i welded them to the chassis, with the right hand one slightly modified to lift it up. Pic I hope you can make out what i did. The original mount hung too low because a 110 chassis has a lower belly, so i trimmed and chopped the mounts to suit, i did not want hanging bits down. The only thing that hangs below the chassis is the whole handbrake drum assembly Here is a rear view from underneath, sorry poor quality G

If you look at ebay there are several motors which will suit your requirement, what is also important is gearing. On my toylander at first i went with a direct drive with the above motor, and 15inch dia wheel and lyres, it was ok but was too fast for the kids, fun for the adults. It would not climb up a slight ramp as it was over geared, but was very good on the flat. I then geared it down again at a 2:1 with chains. From my tread you can see what i did. Now its much better and it has surprised me at how much the little 230watt motor can pull. I think it would drive a 500 kg wt if geared right (mind you, not fast) For what you want to do i would look at one of the large mobility scooter units, or a small powered pallet truck/forklift traction motor. G

Rien check the return pipes on the injectors, my dads 300 started playing up like that and it was one of the pipes which was sucking in some air overnight, making it hard to start up. Then it would be fine all day. Found it cracked a little. Could be other things as well. g

Ok, use a drill then.

Its a US built kid buggy, pinched those off pirate, all i know is it has zuk axles, quad/atv wheels and tyres, and a 2cyl bike engine, 4 link....... pinched of pirate here............http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/vehicles-trailers-sale/1054171-mini-jeep-steel-body-1-2-scale-willies.html axles hp 1972 lj20 not cut rev rotation t-case lj20 3 speed driveline hydrolic brakes full hydro steering motor honda trx 300 trans married 6 speed manuel auto king air shocks linked 3/4 heims

Pics are from the last rebuild, My first installation was undocumented, but i put some pics of the old modified buklhead. Standard items Trimmed to fit, this was rather strange, as i have a 110 bulkhead and 110 seatbox and yet the standard tunnel did not fit, while on the other hand i recall that with the series bulkhead i had to extend the tunnel by about an inch. But i changed so many things at once that it was rather difficult to see why and what changed. (also my engine and box combo seem to be further back then they should be........) All done The old bulkhead If i come accross any more i will post up

I have a long stick lt77 of a standard defender one, so that is what i can talk about. My tdi is approx in the same place as a normal series engine, give or take and inch here and there. When i fitted mine and had the series bulkhead, i did have to modify the lower part of the bulkhead. I then used standard floors and tunnel bits for a turbo d landy, i slightly modded the part that attaches to the bulkhead. It was a rather simple job to get the 110/90 bits to fit. Ah you also need trim the seatbox, and get creative with the hand brake linkage if you keep the series system. Pics later as i search up in the archive..................

Found these for you.................. Front of bellhousing to rear output flange: TF727 and LT230 - 36.5” ZF auto and LT230 - 38" LT77(200tdi) and LT230 - 31" SIIA gear and transfer box - 28" So basically the auto will be 10 inches longer from a series box, in my case 7 inches, assuming the above are correct. That a lot!!, so in my case i must relocate my gearbox x member and mounts plus another set of propshafts, probably making the front one longer than the rear!!! No thank you, manual it will remain..........i thought the differences might be closer making the swap relatively simple in my case. G

Rien you want the spin on type?? they might not fit at the bulkhead as they are physically taller than the cav. It s according to what is in the way. On a standard 300 the filter is mounted on the right inner wing lip i believe, as at the bukhead it will foul the air intake hose to the turbo. As to the holes, the spacing is the same at the bulkhead as i have the cav type fitted there on a late 200 bulkhead. Why not get a racor?? G

Here i found you some inspirational pics, i love this one.................. G

Ok i can answer you then! Do not use real land rover bits, they are too heavy. The more weight you add the more power you will need to drive the thing. If you are stuck on that idea then petrol power would be better. Remember bigger heavier vehicle will need bigger heavier batteries to get some sort of play time with it. Cordless drill motors will not cut it on a heavy vehicle (or towing a caravan!!!), they are good upgrades for the plastic toy ride on ones. Toylander come in on the heavy weight side, mine is around the 90kg mark, due to the suspension. My tip would be to keep it simple, i complicated mine by making the suspension work. But it seems with all the stuff you want it to carry you might be better off finding an electric golf cart, or an small electric forklift! Mine will carry my heavy ass plus my two kids happily (that's around 150-160kgs) It will climb pretty steep hills with the kids (but not with me in it) never tried towing anything with it but i bet it will stall out it i hook it to a caravan! G

Sure no problem, i already chopped or moved most of the x members so in my case an auto would just involve propshafts and gearbox mounts, As my engine has no room to move forward, so that has to stay put. I belive an auto is 4 inches longer then what i have now. Now that i think about it i might have issues with my front prop clearing my last x member relocation...........errr forget it, another mod fixing my previous mod........... Let me know when you fly here.......... G

My last try, i rigged the circuit on the bench, at first it was the same, dim bulb, then i bypassed the wire from the wiper box to the terminal, and it sorted itself out for a while. Then i reconnected to the terminal and the problem was gone. Fitted it back in the car and bingo, it came back! I have a suspect that the short wire from the wiper box to the terminal is some how leaking to earth, Is diesel conductive??? next remedy is changing that little bit of soldered wire............ My sole reason for not replacing it is the gauge works perfectly. to stop the annoying bulb all i need is to remove the wire from the terminal at the sender, thus eliminating the warning (not really a solution) G

I have first hand experiance with your last sentence.........................some are still unsorted, needing mods to solve my previous mods. I have learnt to live with them. As to choice i cannot help, but i have been in your shoes several years ago. I have ended with the lt77/lt230, i have been happy with it, although i wish i could go to an auto. G

Ok got one for your collective brains......... but first a bit of a background of the system and vehicle............its going to a bit long..... So i have a series 3, been evolving over the years, during my last rebuild, i went with a defender tdi200 bulkhead and electrics. So i had the task of maatching series bits to later defender electrics. Mainly one of series things that needed matching to the defender system was the fuel gauge to sender. I used a series sender (brand new at rebuild) as i still run the series tank, the gauge is a defender unit, i managed to match approx the gauge to the sender by adjusting the float in the tank. I was lucky that the resistance was nearly the same for the sender. One glitch was that my series had a low fuel warning lamp, while the defender electrics did not. So i wired one up accordingly, and functioned brilliantly for the last couple of years. Now ffwd to this month, this darn bulb started coming on faintly constantly, only going bright when the level is low. Now the problem seems to be increasing and there is little or no difference in the brightness making it practically useless as a warning light. So i got busy and got into the sender hoping to find the cause. Found nothing!! i even opened up the sender to have looksee, nothing seemed out of place. Put it back in and the problem fixed itself........, i was pleased i had solved the problem!!! very happy bunny...................i was good for a few meters, as soon as i got out the garge the problem came back. Check all the wiring on the loom and its all good. I went to this process for the last 2 weekends trying to solve the issue with little or no succsess. From what i can figure out there seems to be a leakage to earth within the sender making the bulb dim! So any bright sparks out there have an idea how the F to fix it......as this one just beat me. (i know a new sender would solve it, so that will not work as a fix, just as a last resort.......) Appriciate some help........... G

Yes infact its my motto never to own 2 land rover products in one family! G

Oh dear!, well when i did mine it has corrosion on several of the waterways, way back in 05. I got it all welded up and skimmed and its been fine ever since (touch wood). Mine actually failed at the number 4 bore to the pushrod oil gallery. The water ways were the horror when i took it off! 200 heads are pretty good compared to the 300's so you should be fine. I will try to find some pics......... One of the water ways The whole head, you can just see they all had some corrosion Skimmed and all done, you can see where the welding was done. G

That poor series spent too much time in a garage, now that its starting to be used it will start to play up, probably the bleeding with new fluid weakened the seals further. Not to dishearten you but a full system rebuild of the brakes will be needed as you will have a domino effect. (i might also be wrong) Also expect the clutch hydraulics to play up after some use. G ps call me if you need anything..........

Its not the quick drying one, you have ample time to apply it neatly, it sets after a couple of hours, and workable after 24hrs. I used a rubber spatula they used for body filler, which conforms to the shape you are filling. I was very pleased by the application as i was pretty easy to sand down as it was allready nice and smooth, it just needed to be thinned down and the edges feathered off to the metal. I should be good for another 8 - 10 years, i hope! G