David Sparkes

If / when you have the wheel off again, I suggest you remove a pad, photograph it, and press it into a piece of paper or card, then draw round the outline of both the friction pad and the backing plate. This is a precaution so that if the worst comes to the worst you can visit a Motor Factors or GOOD Parts Shop and compare the outline you have against the outline of the pads in the back of his brake parts catalogue. Those flexible hoses look like steel braided to me, add a picture of how they attach to the caliper. Also a quick scrub of the calipers with a wire brush, especially around any raised letters, casting marks, etc, before taking any pictures may help SeriousIIa identify them. It may mean more trouble now, but overall I'd say those brakes are more of a bonus rather than a problem!! Good Luck.

Ok, back to your original question, about whether AT or MT tyres were the best candidates for chains, someone asked a similar question around going to a competition, in snowy France. I think it was Kev Baldwin who responded along the lines of 'the chunker the tyre the harder it is to get / keep the chains tight'. The unspoken understanding being that loose chains wear faster. You are probably aware that most modern chains are reversible, but don't leave it too long before changing to use the other side. When my brother was testing chains, then hiring them to UK tourists going abroad, he felt the main difference between the expensive and the very expensive chains was not their performance on the road, but the ease with which they could be fitted. But these people would be expected to attach and remove the chains several times a day as they moved from tarmac to snow and back again. Not really your circumstances, where it looks as though you sew yourself into your long johns in December, and don't cut the stitching until March or April :-) I mean fit chains in December, etc, of course!! Cheers.

I'm sure that would help, but the thing with real cold weather tyres is that the rubber has a different formulation, which works better in cold conditions than the 'normal' rubber we get in the UK. I have relations currently living near Basle in Switzerland, and it's standard practice, even for mundane MPVs, to have two sets of wheels, one with Winter or Alpine tyres on, identifiable by a snowflake symbol on the tyre wall. Yes, they have lots of sipes, but it's also the rubber which helps. I don't have enough information to recommend specific makes, but if the name looks Scandanavian or Nordic it's a fair bet they will do the job. Cheers.

No. It's a result of sloppy wording, compounded (in some cases) by people not writing in their first language (so there is some justification). In your post which I've quoted above, you are probably referring to the air bags that are part of the SRS (Supplementary Restraint System), part of the secondary safety features which protect you in the event of an accident. Other people use 'airbags' when they mean the air springs, part of the EAS (Electronic Air Suspension) system you first asked about. There is no connection between the operation of the SRS and the EAS. HTH.

Yes, At that time, late 60's / early 70s, it was a bit cutting edge for Land Rover!!

Backing what BogMonster has written, because I see too much Series 2 information. Series 2 did start off as 9/16" BSF, but these screwed into the hub. A common upgrade is to drill these out and use the later M16 studs, as these pull in, and are less likely to unscrew after somebody has been at them with an air gun wound up to maximum. Good place to buy in Staffordshire - try Beamends http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/ who do NOT do Mail Order. Good luck with the Geraniums.

If your existing EAS system isn't leaking the compressor will last for years. You do need to maintain the system, principally by changing the air springs rather than trying to go on and on with the old ones. You know of Arnott Air Gen III springs, which are pretty expensive, compared to standard springs. Presumably you are aware of Rover Renovations? If you want a budget maintenance approach why not get a seal or a compressor overhaul kit from them. I don't see how fitting a complete secondary system is the cheap option. Have you planned an air dryer into this secondary system? HTH

If it's the original radio I expect Land Rover to have the Security Code (as they have with my '95 38A). They won't tell you directly, but your Dealer can access the information. Nowadays you should expect to be charged for the information, but you might be fortunate, so try asking. if your Dealer doesn't know you there will be a security issue for them to solve. Alternatively, take the Radio out and write down all the numbers on the case. You really want the Serial Number, but it isn't always obvious, so take them all. You might also find that someone else has written the 4 code PIN on the case. Once you have the Serial Number there are lots of places online that will give you the code (based on the Serial Number), but you have to pay. I used Bubblegum years ago when they were free, then made sure I wrote the codes down. http://www.31bubblegum.proboards54.com/ http://carradiocodes4u.proboards100.com/index.cgi is another possibility. Or you can put Radio Codes into Google and pass the rest of the day reading the PC screen. It might help if you know who made the radio. Good Luck.

Reading the bit about the physical difficulty of lifting the head, don't forget that the bonnet hinges on the 38A are designed to secure the bonnet in the vertical condition. It's unbelievable how much more light this lets in, and also the improvement it makes in access to the rear of the engine bay. A couple of tips; Release the screen wash hose from the bulkhead clip before you reposition the bonnet, as the hose won't reach if you don't. Release the struts at the bonnet end, not the wing end, otherwise as you lower the bonnet afterwards the free end of the strut digs into the wing. If doing this on your own, raise the bonnet as normal, release the non locking strut (normally the RH side - as viewed from the drivers seat). Lower the strut, the bonnet will twist slightly, but stay up on the locking strut. Now release the LH strut and lay it on the wing. Lift the bonnet vertically, moving the spring clip on the LH hinge to hold it up. Go to the RH hinge and locate the spring clip on that hinge as well. The manual says don't do this if the car is outside, but I do, you just have to make a sensible assessment of the wind strength. From here on life gets more difficult :-)

Read this page, then ask for more detail about any parts you don't understand. http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title...ys_and_Security Note that this reflects the situation several years ago. I don't know whether Ford (in particular) maintained all the key options. I've been told that all 4 aren't available now, but the source was in America. It would be useful if you let us know how you get on. If you want the remote facility, Yes. If you just want a blank key you can probably get one cut 'anywhere'. Yes. Do you have the EKA for your car? If not, you can get information from Land Rover Dealers, but with the following provisos. Nowadays they will charge you for the information. The information reflects the original fitment. This information should be updated by the installing Dealer if a new lockset was fitted for any reason. Thus it's a gamble whether the information in the database is correct. If you order a new handset based on the information, but find the lockset has been changed and the new handset doesn't work, there is no recompense, you have lost your money. Certain Independents with the appropriate Rovacom (Blackbox Solutions) module can read a locked BECM, and thus access the EKA that is inside it. Unless one of them contributes here, the detail of what this module can do is best obtained directly from them. HTH

I feel I ought to contribute to this thread to say I have had good service from several different counter staff at Paddock Spares. As I am a novice to the world of Series Land Rovers this has been very welcome.

No I haven't done this repair. Regarding specialist tools, have you got a copy of the Workshop manual, via a RAVE CD? This will at least give you the official line. I would expect some special tools to be required for disconnecting and reconnecting the chain for the overhead camshaft, and possibly the high pressure Fuel Injection Pump. HTH

Hmmm, interesting to see what response you get here, both in terms of a 38A EAS system, and the software. I suspect you will get more response from the RangeRovers.net forum, even if some of the advice is American! Oops :-) I bought a Rovacom Light some time ago (when they were cutting edge!) and my associated PCs have always had serial ports. I can't help with anything other than the obvious one of check closely that your OBDII socket terminals aren't corroded. Best to pop the socket out and check the reverse side as well. Are you absolutely certain it's a USB to Serial problem? I'm not IT literate enough to confidently devise one, but can you find a test that proves whether or not the adapter works, irrespective of what is on the end? I'm thinking create a loop termination to go in the serial socket, then send data out and see it coming back? Will Hyperterminal do this? (It is a standard programme on Windows PCs, up to and including XP, I don't know about Vista). Phrase the question like that (self test required for USB to Serial adapter), and you might get a better response rate, both here and from Storey, either direct or via the RR.net forum; or even on 'any' PC forum. The people on the Honest John car site seem to cover a lot of Computing ground; they have a special thread for Computing questions, now on Volume 171, http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/ind...f=2&t=70440 Good Luck.

Are you and your brother both using the same software on your PCs? Which software is it? With a name including 4.6 do we assume you (and your brother) are running 38As? Cheers.

Hello Susan, welcome, but are you still reading this thread? Just a tip, if you don't keep giving people a steer this thread could easily wander off into a bottomless bog. I have wondered which sort of Range Rover you are interested in; the only clue you have given is 'late oil burner'. Doesn't help us much because we don't know what your 'Late' is relative to; todays date, or the model range? Late Classics, late 38As, late L332s, I'm sure there are advocates of them all (although not all of them will dare post in this forum). Your call. PS Just reviewing the post before hitting 'Add Reply' and realised I hadn't checked your profile for clues: Last visited 22nd Dec, Interests - ..... Classic Range Rover. Hmmm, your first Land Rover is to be at least 13 years old .... a lot would say that's an area where Angels would fear to tread. OK, that's me out, but others are available :-) HTH, Cheers.

The OP wrote "I think its a "headlight adjuster", but then went on to show they didn't understand this term by writing, "does this mean a "switch", ie turns running lights and headlights on and off??" lrfarmer has confirmed that it IS the headlight adjuster, so the explanation can be taken further by saying that it sets (adjusts) the headlights to different positions (angles), to compensate for the attitude change of the vehicle, caused by additional loads that mainly affect the rear suspension. I don't know how it does this, but probably via an electric motor on each headlight. Nor do I know whether the switch is available as a separate part, or only as part of the console. I don't know if any night time illumination of the number strip changes to show which setting has been chosen, but if not, the number strip may be a separate item to the switch. The OP asks 'If its not that (a switch for turning the lights On and Off) can it be used or modified to do that with use of relays??' Surely the vehicle already has a means of switching the headlights On and Off, so what in total are you trying to achieve? (In the guise of 'the elephant in the room', the unspoken thought here is 'If you have to ask the question you have asked, are you competent to devise a scheme to do what you want?). If you just want a rotary switch to operate relays to control the lights, why not use a rotary switch from a 38A Range Rover? This has three positions, off, side lights (parking lights), and headlights (but not dip / main). This has the appropriate markings on the switch, that align against a single mark on the console as the switch is rotated. The next comments assume the panel you have shown is from a Land Rover. I suggest you need a wiring diagram, and you should get that from the GTR. I'd expect the switch to be only available as new from LR Dealers, but also as second hand from breakers of accident damaged vehicles. They might only sell you a complete console, with all the switches, at more expense than buying just the switch from the Dealer. A modern version of Microcat will probably have the part numbers in, and thus detail exactly what parts you have to buy to get both the switch AND the number strip. I don't have an operational version of Microcat. HTH

In what seems like a 'smart alec' response, it depends on the rivnut!! The first ones I was introduced to had a gold passivated appearance, and were compressed into place by use of a standard HT screw, an oiled thread, and a big washer. The second lot looked the same, but turned out to have a very poor thread which stripped as I was trying to compress them. These were replaced with some like the first set. Probably not adequate for high stress situations, especially if the load is a straight pull rather than a sideways sheer. The most recent set I almost bought were from a different supplier, I asked for Rivnuts and was offered some in a 'zinc grey' colour. When I requested a screw to set them with the supplier gave me a very old fashioned look, and told me in no uncertain terms that what I was proposing wouldn't work. I needed the correct setting tool, at 'a lot of money'. I'm sure these would have held a seat, but they were not required for what I wanted. The same supplier sold me the 'cheap and nasty' versions. He didn't call these rivnuts, but I don't recall what he did call them. Regarding the lashing eyes and seats, the other limiting factor is the strength of the panel the eyes are to be fastened to. Pointless to use a battleship fastening on a 16G sheet. HTH

I think I've already cast my vote - ... you need to aim for a continuous movement of the valve (and therefore vanes) as the manifold pressure changes from 0.1 bar to 1.0 bar. Unfortunately I can't immediately suggest a source of springs you can mine to achieve this. As a matter of interest, does Lara's valve use a diaphragm that is the same area as a standard 300TDi actuator? Cheers

I disagree, you do not want an on / off switch. The experience I can relate is that the wastegate actuator starts to move on my BMW derived engine (Mitsubishi turbocharger) as soon as any pressure is developed by the turbocharger. If this is what a factory developed system does then I'm not sure you have an option about not wanting it to start moving as soon as any pressure's generated, if you are 'just' using a single actuator. The alternative mode of operation you are suggesting is that the valve doesn't move with say 14 psi line pressure, but fully moves with 16 psi line pressure. With a single valve I don't think that's achievable, nor desirable. In your case it would mean the vanes go from fully closed to fully open, almost instantly. There is also the point that, based on your current experiences, with the vanes fully closed the turbocharger may not achieve 14 psi boost anyway, as it simply won't be able to flow the exhaust gas. I think you need to aim for a continuous movement of the valve (and therefore vanes) as the manifold pressure changes from 1 psi to 15 psi. Surely this is the reason to have a fully variable vane system, to always have the optimum flow rate, both in terms of flow capacity and air speed, at any and every point of the turbochargers operating range? You also need to bear in mind the point made in the other document about the benefits of keeping the vanes moving, to prevent them sticking. HTH

I think you need to develop a greater understanding of the detail. Here's my understanding of that detail. The physical advantage of a conical spring is that when fully compressed the overall length of the spring is less (than if the coils were all the same diameter). Thus the valve can be made shorter. You suggest the spring is "progressive?", but the question mark shows you aren't sure if that is correct. In fact, all springs are 'progressive', because the tension increases (progresses) as the length alters. It is the manner of that progression you are interested in, and the values encompassed with the progression. The wire diameter is consistent throughout the length of the spring. As the spring is compressed, the wire in each coil twists, the overall effect is a reduction in length of the spring. If you consider each coil separately, the first coil has the largest diameter (or the longest length), therefore the lowest rate (least rise in force for a given twist). The second coil has a smaller diameter (thus length of the circumference) so has a slightly higher rate. The third coil has a slightly smaller diameter, so the rate is slightly higher again. The overall effect is that as pressure is applied to the spring, initially it is the first (longest) coil that twists the most. As the compression loading increases the first coil becomes flat (and thus ceases to twist), but the smaller (shorter) coils start to twist more. The overall effect of this is what you need to establish. I can't tell you what this is from my general knowledge. I suspect the answer is one of two things. A/ The rate of the spring (compression force over spring length) remains consistent over most of the compression length available. B/ The rate of the spring becomes higher and higher as the spring becomes more compressed. You need to research this, either by reading, or by empirical measurement. Moving on, it is beneficial if you know the actual force required to compress the spring (and therefore the force exerted on the diaphragm), so this pushes you towards research by measurement. Load the spring by a known amount of weight (This is the compressive force) and measure the resultant length. OR Shorten the spring by a known amount, measuring the resultant force. You have attempted this using air pressure, but have led yourself astray, because you have forgotten to take into account the area of the diaphragm that interfaces between the spring and the air pressure. An example. If your diaphragm has an area of 2 square inches, and you apply an air pressure of 10 psi, the load on the spring is 20 pounds force. If your diaphragm has an area of 1.5 square inches, and you apply an air pressure of 10 psi, the load on the spring is 15 pounds force. Springs will be rated in terms of force (pounds, kilograms, ounces, whatever), and you need to multiply that by the diaphragm area to see the resultant line pressure in force per unit area (PSI, kg per sq cm, whatever). If you follow the detailed method, and measure the progression line of the spring outside the valve assembly, you will be able to decide if you can use the existing spring, but add a spacer to the valve so the spring is less compressed when the valve is assembled. Because you can also establish how far the diaphragm can physically move, you can also pinpoint the maximum pressure the spring will exert. Once you have established the mechanics of testing this spring, you can test any other spring you find, and 'know' what the results will be before you assemble the valve. If you don't do the detailed method you are condemned to assembling and disassembling the valve for every spring you want to try, and for every spacer variation you want to try (just in case you have the right spring, but are using the wrong section of its' operating range). I suspect (hope) that this post and that of Bush65 are complimentary, but I haven't read his in full to check this :-) I suspect we have both picked up the point about considering Force AND Diaphragm Area, not just saying 10 Pounds Force = 10 PSI. Cheers HTH.

Fuel pump pressure? (IE Pump failure or pressure sensor failure). I'm just recalling what seem to be frequent posts on the Blackbox Forum. Good Luck.

We call them VIN numbers. I know this is incorrect, as they aren't the full VIN number. The first letter shows the Model Year (which can be different to the Calendar year). The second letter (A) shows it was built in Solihull, not as a Complete Knock Down (CKD) kit somewhere in the British Empire. Yep, the letter is redundant at the moment, but it's there for the future (when TATA create a production plant in India, or China). The digits are just the Serial Number. As it's the VIN, the number won't be on the engine. The number could be on a plate riveted under the bonnet somewhere. It could be on a sticky label, also under the bonnet. It might be on a label visible through the lower part of the windscreen. It could be on a label stuck to the lower part of the A pillar, visible when you open the door (RHF in the UK, presumably LHF in the US). HTH PS "VIN Number" is also 'incorrect', as it expands to Vehicle Identification Number Number, but it occurs because we use VIN as a word, not as initials, because it's easier. Cheers.

James, Whoever said MOSFETs had gone out of fashion? I referred to THE MOSFETs. The ones designed with matching electronic components into a circuit developed before 1994; I suggest that in Electronics that's a long time ago. "If you can't get hold of the same part, you should be able to get one with very similar if not identical characteristics. " Go on then. As an alternative to following your own research path, you might like to start by looking at the link I gave to Andy Cunningham's Landywiki site. There you will see numbers of the original and A superseding version. Following the links to the Philips Data sheets might prove interesting to you. Then perhaps try searching on the 4.0 / 4.6 Forum on RangeRovers.net; MOSFET is probably a good search term, but I haven't had to search before, as I watched the conversations unfold the first time around. Look at the dates of the posts. People on there were not finding it easy. There will be people in that Forum very pleased to be told of a source of spare parts they can tap into, suitable for solving the type of problem Jordo outlines. I shan't be holding my breath :-))

Jordo, I think you are correct, it's the BECM. The advice to get RAVE is good, in that you get an idea how the circuit should work, but frankly I think you have just been pushed in the deep end, and as you say, you already feel the water is above head height, and the bottom is muddy. There is an interesting write up on this page, see BECM Repair and What it Lead To (sic). The snag nowadays is that the MOSFETs are not easy to get hold of. It is old technology after all. http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=BeCM I saw a couple of BECMs for sale on Ebay, but be aware there is a reprogramming charge somewhere along the line to make your keys match the 'new' BECM. The safe advice is to find someone who is comfortable with commissioning a 'new' BECM for you before splashing out £125.00 or whatever. I see there are both suppliers and repairers on ebay - I don't know any of them. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...-All-Categories Good Luck.

As you asked the question ... the answer is No, the 38A doesn't have the A frame like the Classic. The radius arms for the rear axle have 'conventional' rubber bushes at the chassis end, and don't look too difficult to change. I've never done it. The axle end is completely different, as the arm is clamped, and doesn't pivot around the mounting point; if those ever go I'd suggest it's a case of new arms, as these twist in use to fulfill an anti-roll function, as well as an axle location function. HTH