David Sparkes

Impact screwdriver. Buy it, use it (with minimum 2lb hammer). Wonder what all the fuss was for.

The manual box on a 38A in an R380. I have no idea if that makes what you want to do easier or not. "140hp standard and bucket loads of torque." I don't know where that comes from. Low down torque is NOT something the engine is noted for. Admittedly this is exacerbated by the fact that a 38A is heavier than a Classic. Note the manual box for the 38A diesel has a lower first gear than the manual box for a 4.0 38A. 1st ....................................3.321:1 ........................ Diesel models low first gear 3.692:1 ......................... For comparison with whatever you fit. Overall ratio (final drive): . High transfer ... Low transfer 1st .....................................14.29:1 ........ 38.45:1 Diesel models low 1st gear .. 15.89:1 ........ 42.75:1 HTH

Just a reminder that everything is arranged, so please let Paul know if you are coming. Paul runs 4x4 tours in Transylvania, and is in the UK for up to a month from November 1st. He is organising a series of presentations from 7-9pm in several locations around the country. The main purpose of the presentations is to generate some interest in Transylvania and off course generate more custom. However, these talks are usually lively and generate a lot of interesting discussion about bears and encounters! The Presentation has been completely revamped with new high resolution photos from this season. A room at the Brunswick in Derby is booked for Thursday November 20th. Kick off will be at 7pm finishing around 9pm. There is also a bar close by! ('Cos they brew their own). http://www.BrunswickInn.co.uk Please let Paul know by e-mail, PM or phone if you are coming as a bigger room will be required if more that 15 people attend. UK mobile number is 0794 766 4295 e-mail: paul@transylvania4x4tours.com Venue:- The Brunswick Brewery Ltd 1 Railway Terrace Derby DE1 2RU Tel: 01332 290677 'The Board Room is the smaller of our two upstairs rooms, and is ideal for small presentations/meetings, comfortably seating 15 people. In the event of a large function room booking the board room can be used a buffet service area. Please be aware that as this is an upstairs room there is no disabled access.' Cheers, Paul

Just to add to the good news, I had Paypal re-imburse me, by drawing funds from the Vendors account, for a Cellphone style battery that was DOA. The Vendor just didn't bother responding. I've also just had a Vendor re-imburse me £3.00 because the postage wasn't as much as they quoted / charged in the advert. This was for a Laptop battery. Good to hear good news!

I find a lot depends on whether the scrapyard is processing the cars for spare parts, in which case I agree with Chris, or whether the cars are being processed for scrap metal, and selling bits and pieces is a sideline. In my experience these dealers aren't too bothered about incidental damage. Perhaps it's partly because the majority of cars are time expired (worn out), rather than the newer accident damaged cars I see in the typical 'spare part' yard. In the original enquiry the poster was looking for an easy life. I don't equate this to buying an alternative seat and creating an adaptor mounting to put it in a 38A, thus dismantling the seat in an easy way was appropriate to the question. Cheers

That all looks nicely accessible. Personally I'd drop the turbo off just so I could see up the exhaust manifold, looking for a vertical web, situated to direct the exhaust gasses down towards the turbo, rather than towards the cylinders at the other end of the engine. If there is a web (as there is on BMW engines) it makes inserting the probe a little more difficult, if you happen to drill into the web. Try to position the tip of the probe where it will be wiped by all the slugs of hot gas from the cylinders. IE, just below the end of any web. This gives a more accurate reading, and a faster response. Don't worry about bending (curving) the probe to achieve this placement. The small diameter probes are designed to accept this, for the reason just stated, 'ideal' placement where ALL the hot gasses flow. Have fun.

Cars are Volvos, or Saabs, but it's Volvos I've had experience of. The advantage of these is that they are cold climate cars, they have been through the learning process that UK manufacturers are still struggling through, and they only accept designs that work reliably, so scrapyard sourced items will still work. 38A versions, OTOH, fail within 3 or 4 years, although I'm out of touch with later versions. Pads are easily removed from scrapyard cars because you take a craft knife with a new sharp blade with you. Cut through the seat base cushion cover right at the edge, where the side panel is attached to the base panel. The feed wires will exist along the rear edge, so you can start cutting on the sides and front without a problem. You may have a little more difficulty with the wiring underneath the seats, as there will be wiring to the seat occupancy switch (part of any seat belt warning light system) as well as the heater pad wiring. Note there are two panels, one in the base, the other in the back. They may be joined at the plug connecting to the car wiring, or they may have separate plugs. The difficult bit is installing them in your seats, as you have to remove the cushion covers without the aid of your sharp knife. You may find yourself buying Hog Ring Pliers, or small tie wraps to use instead of Hog Rings. Don't be stingy with the tie wraps, I'd estimate more than 12, less than 24, per seat base. Your car didn't have heated seats originally, so the buttons won't exist on the HEVAC panel (unless you are changing that at the same time), so you will have to devise your own method of control. The seat base heating pads have an integral, non-adjustable, thermostat. Have fun.

These people seem to b the source; ask them if there is anyone local to your (unknown) location. http://www.rs-laser-cutting.co.uk/fullmetaljacket.htm HTH

No. q-rover was using a bit of shorthand, which is OK if the reader understands the system, but not for a new-comer. The generic term for modern 'heating' systems is HEVAC - Heating, Ventilation, and Airconditioning. Obviously this could be three separate systems. In most versions of the 38A Range Rover the systems are combined. This is covered by the Marketing term Climate Control. Climate Control is when the system automatically adjusts any or all of the systems at the same time. Thus the Book plus Exclamation Mark indicates a fault with the Climate Control, which could be in either the Heating, Ventilation, or Airconditioning systems. Or it could be a fault in the control system. You may or may not be able to establish, via a Manual Test, what functionality is missing. Otherwise you need someone with a product from Blackbox Solution, or Autologic, or the Land Rover Dealer to read the Fault Codes. HTH

Unfair!! :-)

"Any better ideas gratefully recieved." If the vehicle continues to self level it's because there is an air leak, probably very very small, more like an air 'weep', but that is why, every time the ECU checks, the combined sensor analysis shows 'tilt'. If it hasn't recently been done, renew the air bags, it's no different (in principle) to replacing soft leaf or coil springs. If they have recently been changed, check for leaks (which can be frustrating). BTW, if you buy 'springs with pistons', also buy new hairpins and new C clips, they don't (didn't) come with the spring assemblies. If the pump is not able to lift the vehicle rapidly when you start the engine it's because the pump is more than halfway to being totally cream crackered. This is partly because of fair wear and tear, and partly because of the excess workload trying to overcome the effects of the air leak, even while the car is being driven. Buy and apply a pump overhaul kit. Rover Renovations is the supplier you want, although by all means check eBay etc, especially if all you are after is the springs rather than the spring / piston assembly. Doing this work now means you get to enjoy the benefits while you drive the vehicle. Leave it until you sell (if the pump lasts that long) and the selling price has to be drastically reduced, or you have to do the work anyway, but never get to enjoy the benefits. Cheers

I'd say it depends on how long the brake cleaner kept it running for. I would have guessed it ran for less than 30 seconds? Now you know it won't self bleed in however many seconds it ran for, you need to do some diagnosis. If the bleeding is done manually you get to check that each element of the system is flowing fuel. The process in the Workshop Manual gets you to the point that the injector pump is full of fuel. If that is OK you need to loosen the pipe connections at the injectors to see if fuel is reaching them all, either by spinning the engine by the starter, or by running it for a short time on brake cleaner. As you have suspicions about the tank contents, perhaps the injectors are all gummed shut. Is the valve before or after the lift pump, where is it in relation to the filter? I suppose that begs the question, have you drained or replaced the filter? The picture may still be useful, as to someone it may be a clue as to what 'fuel' the system was using. Cheers.

Have you done the manual bleeding operations, by the book? IE as if the high pressure pump is empty. "I see a strange valve in the engine bay, " I think we would need to see a picture before starting to guess about that. You haven't even said which pipe run it is in!!

Then we are just fortunate that it's not your call :-)) Those with Tax Free Vehicles have nothing to lose by enquiring.

"It seems like a great vehicle ,is it?" The answer to that depends very much on the writers preference, and also what you want out of the vehicle. In a single post there isn't enough information to base a judgement on, unless the writer really REALLY like's 109" Diesel engined Series 2's. From other comment's I've read, 109"'s are not as common as 88" versions, and original diesels are probably an even smaller subset, so you will be encouraged to keep it to it's original spec, as well as roadworthy. The standard dashboard layout is in the owners manual, and I suggest you take advantage of the offer in this 60th anniversary year from BMIHT at Gaydon. Their Land Rover Technical Publication CDs are reduced from £17.50 to £10.00 (+ £2.50 handling) and they will get you Workshop, Parts, and Owners handbooks. You want LHP21. Not the easiest CDs to use, but cheap, and you can look for paper versions at your leisure. Oh, They may be out of stock at the moment, but place an order anyway, even if you have to phone them up, so they know there is demand. These CD's are heavily copy protected, so people can't just run off a copy for you. Some pointers: The International forum is generally the busiest on here, so any post quickly falls off the bottom of the page, unless it generates a flow of responses. I lot of viewers are not Series people, so can't answer your queries. If you post into the less busy Series forum the advantage is that your post stays on the first page for longer, and more readers are likely to be interested & knowledgeable about the Series 2 detail. Secondly, the Series 2 Club will be more focused on this model, they deal with dashboard layout queries on a regular basis, so you might find it more rewarding to post on their web forum. Reading and I think Searching are 'free', but obviously you will have to Register on the Forum before you can post. However, joining the Club is NOT mandatory, although the club membership is not excessive, when taken as part of the yearly costs of running your car. Thirdly, wherever you post, queries about dashboard layouts are much easier to understand, and resolve if there is a picture. An advantage of both this Forum, and the Series 2 club forum, is that you can post pictures directly into your query, you don't have to host them elsewhere. Both have limits on file size, but that's universal. You probably have a software program that will reduce jpg quality to a 'web' setting. Fourthly, wherever you post, please put your location in your profile. No-one is going to call round un-announced, but at least they can offer to give direct advice, or suggest you visit them, or suggest a local 'good place to go', depending on your query. Good Luck.

This is a link to the original specific discussion, the Un-excised element of which got mentioned on the Series 2 Club forum, and then on here. http://www.r3w.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=13945 Note they do spend time talking about the classification of 3 wheelers, which I appreciate is not our interest. However, as the discussion is on-going there may be more information on the Un-excised element, which will be of interest to owners of LRs that are exempt from Road Fund Tax. You will see reference to a letter that some people are carrying with them, but this relates to ensuring 3 wheelers are charged as motorcycles, not cars. The letter does not refer to 'Un-excised' vehicles. HTH

I'll add my name to a list of prospective attendees. Cheers.

Rather depends what year your RRC is. For late models, close to 1995, than the RAVE CD download from Green Oval will give you the detail. If you are running an RRC from the 1970's this may not be much help. CD3 at http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?opt...3&Itemid=29 Do note the instructions on site. You should note that I don't run an RRC of any description, I merely 'enjoy' them at one remove.

I'm not sure this counts as International, but we don't have a 'Wales' section. Credit must also go to the poster on the web forum of the Series 2 Club, who shared this with us. "I stirred things up on another forum by suggesting that Reliant Robins were not motor cars according to the RTA, and should go across the Severn Bridge without paying a toll. Somebody replied to say that UN-EXCISED vehicles are toll exempt. UN-EXCISED? Now there is an interesting word. I've gone back for more details. Does anybody here have any ideas?" Later the poster added: "News just in. I'm not certain about the reference to 1971 Act..... Dear Mr ********* Sorry for the delay in replying to your email. I have endeavoured to get to the bottom of this issue once and for all by going through the legal documents and my finding are:- The last reference to this that I can find documentary evidence for is in the "Statutory Instruments 2001 - Highways England. (Revision of Tolls and Traffic Classification) Order 2001" which came into force 28 August 2001. Item 3. States "No tolls shall be charged in respect of any vehicle which is not chargeable with any duty under the Vehicles (Excise) Act 1971 (b) by virtue of section 7(2) of that Act. I hope this clarifies the situation for you. Should you need any further information then please don't hesitate to come back to me. Having said this the only method that our staff have in policing the toll is via the vehicle displaying a current tax disc displaying nil tax. I have attached a copy of the order for your reference Regards, " So, it makes running a ringer off eBay even more attractive :-)) Cheers.

Have you got the space? Check the L, W, H dimensions, in cm. Flywheels look good, HW16 = 270 cm, nearly 9 feet. HW45 = 530 cm, over 17 feet. Real Victorian standards, they don't (normally) make them like that nowadays!! Seriously, they look good, if the price is right. Cheers Cheers

Just to advise anyone reading this thread that the Press Release has already featured on the GLASS Forum, and that both the Derbyshire and Peak District reps are dealing. This is by working with the locals, rather than fighting them. As anyone who has been involved with any Green Lane works knows, there are both Political and Practical elements to deal with. Press Releases are Political. I may see one or both of the GLASS guys at the Pub Meet tonight (Monday 3rd Oct, The Grouse at Froggatt, say 8.00 pm onwards). If tomorrow I can recall any useful update I'll post here. :-) Cheers.

It's funny you should say that. (And it's better than magic piano jokes!) I started running LPG in June 2001 - LPG as a supplement to Diesel. I stopped this in March 2004. Since then I've run 'pure' Diesel. :-)

I realised I missed a bit from this earlier response. If, in the future, I mount fog lights at the top of the windscreen, for after dark Green Lane work, I will arrange the housing and lens so the sharp cut-off is at the bottom of the light pattern, IE all the light shining ABOVE the cut-off, not below, as is the normal orientation of fog lights. I will then aim the lamp downwards so the cut-off line just clears the leading edge of the bonnet. This arrangement will stop wasting light illuminating the bonnet (and dazzling the driver), but will give the best possible downlight to eradicate the shadows caused by the dipped headlights. HTH.

On metalled roads, or un-metalled roads, AKA Green Lanes?

Now you know that isn't so. Expanding the thoughts behind my comment. I took 'HIDs for off road' to mean just that. On a bumpy surface any depression becomes a shadow, due to the relatively shallow angle of the headlights. It's difficult to see whether the shadow is hiding a shallow dip, or a sudden 6" drop. Shining a brighter light causes the eye to close down, to avoid dazzle, so the shadow appears darker. Thus I'm not convinced that HID is a benefit when you can't guarantee that everything is lit. Mount extra lights higher than your headlights, aim them sharply down, so the beam cut-off is no further ahead of your car than your normal dip beam cut-off (on a level road), and there will be some benefit due to the steeper relative angle of the light beam (shining into the shadow caused by the dip beam), but even then I'm not convinced about HIDs for use on uneven surfaces. As it happens, I've tried HIDs as headlights, and gone back to Philips Silverstar conventional bulbs. The dip beam HID gives a brighter light, turning the tarmac almost white, but I can see there anyway, so there was no practical advantage, and some disadvantage. Cheers.