reb78

I havent used POR 15, some swear by it, some hate it. Same with hammerite paint (i hate it because rust seems to appear through this paint that is suposed to stop rust and i've tried every possible preperation technique) Its a really difficult thing to advise on because everyone says something different! My 110 chassis has a lot of paint left on it from the rear door forwards. Behind that is a bit rusty and i need to sort it out. I'm just going for a wire brush all over and then smothering it in waxoyl and topping up when required. I've done as far forward as the spring mounts (end of last summer) as i had the tank off to do the crossmember and that seems to have been ok so far. Once i have welded up the remaining hile behind the gearbox crossmember, i want to try and get someone to treat the inside of the chassis rails as i'm not convinced i can do it properly with the waxoyl pump myself. There is an article in one of the recent LROs that covers tis with their reccomendations as well.

I just cut the old crossmember off carefully leaving the section between the chassis rails that the tank bolts to. You'll see what i mean when you start to cut. Mine was not too rusty, so this was ok to do. I then slid the new folded section on top and welded it on. Took a bit of fiddling, but not a bad finish in the end.

Yep. I turned it. I think it had already been turned slightly. The deepest and steepest bit of the cone faces forward so the pin can come out as far as possible. I have almost no smoke unless under full throttle, so something cant be quite right, hence wanting to check the boost pressure next - perhaps it isnt boosting properly, so turning the cone hasnt done much as it isnt pushed down under boost. The diaphragm is in good condition. Perhaps the pump is worn.

I got the impression the nut was loose and came off as the OP tried to turn the diaphragm. I dont think it was removed on purpose. I did this tweak to my 110 200tdi. It has made no difference at all. The fuelling is up as far as it will go, starwheel turned down 1 1/2 turns. I havent touched the max speed screw. I will have to have another look at it after i have checked the boost (now i have time to fit my boost gauge). But white 90 is correct, perform changes gradually, one at a time and make a note of what you ahve done so you can undo any changes if you wish.

Are you sure the starwheel is solid or is it screwed down as far as it will go? Will it unscrew? As for the conical pin, it should just pull out, but you might need to rotate it gently and try different positions to get it to pull out.

Easiest and most accurate thing for your vehicle will be to measure the one currently on it. No landy is exactly the same as the next, so the best thing to tailor make it to yours is to measure yours!

Drop SiWhite a PM, he's a copper kinda in your area.

Thats fine, but the OP doesnt know the history of the engine (- i.e. if it was nicked) as the currentl owner clearly has no details of an engine change therefore no receipts. With the fact that the age is thought to be 1994 and it is registered with a 19J engine which makes no sense with that age of vehicle, i would walk away from it unless it easy to prove all is ok. The DVLA will be less than useless if you phone for advice of any sort with that one....

If its a 90 with rear drums, it could be the rear brakes as Les suggested. Doesnt the trailing shoe sometimes bind on those when going backwards? I'd have thought the handbrake would be more likely to do it in both directions at low speeds.

I'd walk away. Another will come up that is all correct and will be no hassle to you. You could end up with a load of work to sort this out - by that i mean frustrating phone calls to the DVLA who wont be much help leaving you wondering what you have bought and if it is all legitimate.

We used to avoid the toll roads. When i was younger, and dad was doing the driving, he said the French pay no road tax when they come over here, so he refused to pay the tolls when he was over there. He couldnt get that for 60 francs, he would shave 5 hours off of a journey and save as much in fuel! He also never saw how pleasant the peage loos were compared to every other public toilet in France!

Covered 2500 miles the other summer in the disco TD5. The two journeys either side of the holiday were about 13 hours long 900 miles. Averaging about 70 overall, but including stop times, the average was probably a little higher with prolonged periods at 85-90. It never missed a beat and hasnt since. I think i'd take it a bit easier in a 200tdi defender though, little older and worse ratios than the disco for cruising. Like badger says, cruising 65ish should be fine, just keep a regular check on fluids etc.

Is that stainless or mild steel?

Sorry Neill. Dont know what i was thinking - yes add shims. You just get used to having to remove them, so that is what i typed! Sorry.

Were the seals OEM? If not then that may be your answer. If 4.5 was slightly tight (jusr read aragorns post, so it is more than slightly), then when you drive it eveything will bed in. Try removing a couple of shims and see how it all sits.

Hmmmmm. This thread seems to have evolved as the day has gone on...... The links offer great advice. Whatever your budget, it will be a lot of money to spend in one go, so it is no wonder that most people are aprehensive and take their time about their purchase . Buy a sound vehicle with a good chassis and, if budget allows, a good engine. All the rest is on here.....fixing the problems, putting in a more desirable engine.....you have come to the right place for the advice you need. It helps you get to know your vehicle, how to fix it and how to enjoy it more...

The tool is £72 and although i'm sure it is nicer than the one i made, a bar and twenty minutes with an angle grinder and drill is almost free! It sits nicely under the chassis rail or against the axle tube (protect with a block of wood) to lock itself so you can undo and more importantly tighten up to the correct torque. I just used the some old crank pulley bolts i had from another engine, but if you dont wish to use them, dont use cheap bolts to attach the tool to the crank pulley as i guess they are the weakpoint and may snap.

I wonder if its caused some damage inside the pump where the pin has been forced - hopefully not. Anyway, have a look at my posts in this thread - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38651&hl I knocked up a tool out of an iron bar to lock the crank - it bolts to the damper after the pulley is removed. Took about half an hour and cost nothing as it was a bit of scrap i had lying around. Hope thats some help.

Sounds normal. There is more play than that in mine.

Didnt know that! I took the flywheel housing off of my TD the other day and there was just sealant there. Thought the tdi would be the same.

Just paint it

You are supposed to run a bead of RTV sealant round when re-attaching the rear housing AFAIK.

I replaced mine and considered just this at the time. I decided that by the time the new crossmember rots, i'll put a new galvanised chassis on it, so just painted it well.

Have you still got the rear silencer on there?

I have to say, if the original manufacturer is offering re-con or exchange units, i think that is definately where i would be headed if i needed it done. I have heard - i'm sure on here, that they are very helpful too.