reb78

Beleive the engine was scrapped for parts as the big ends had gone on it. Seller bought it like that and has never used it. It includes the injectors and glow plugs and he wants £55 for it - might be worth it just for the injectors i suppose, but if the overwhelming feeling was that the head was no good i was going to just get him to post the injectors. I'm not in a rush, i was really only after the injectors to have them as spares and I was just interested in everyones opinions on the state of the head.

Scrap prices??

Seems to be the same between three out of the four valve pairs though. Funny to get three deep scores there i would have thought. Its a 200tdi head - didnt mention that above, not that it changes anything.

The seller sent me these, but think i'll leave it unless advice on here says otherwise.

Zoom in between the valves. Is this cracked? see next post for a closer image.

After 200 yards i doubt the vaccum would be enough to limit flow. However, I'm kinda wrong - split boost diaphragm would pressurise the tank causing a woosh when the cap is opened and pressure is released. Still not sure that a blocked breather would cause enough of a vaccum to limit flow after 200 yards though, having said that - taking the cap apart and cleaning the breather is a quick thing to do and wont cost anything.

Pretty sure the last three suggestions are often related to a split boost diaphragm. Whilst this would explain poor performance, it doesnt explain failure to rev at all under no boost conditions etc...

I just meant as a reminder to all. Perhaps stupidly, i hadnt realised funding was an issue until i read this thread and promptly donated....

Just a thought, but it might be worth placing an extra thread with a link to this one at the top of each vehicle forum. It was about a year before i started using the international forum so wouldnt have spotted this before as i was rarely on this bit.

Done. Much better value for money than a Haynes manual!

Along the lines of Q-rover or berti. A 110 probably with a nice big engine - prob diesel with transmission that can take it. Then kit the inside out so it is as luxurious as a range rover.... I'm sure anything is possible with the time and money and patience!

I think if you get a part with the G in the number, IF you cant find the name or number of the OE manufacturer on it i would worry that it is really just a pattern part and quality may well be suspect - i.e. if you cant find the name Timken on a set of bearings marked with a 'G' on the part number and supplied in a blue and white box, i would be seriously worried i'd just got a blue and white brand bearing and not a timken one.

PM me your email and i'll send you the relevant pages from the manual. They are for the LT77 and i presume the plunger and selector mechanism is common to the V8 and diesel versions of the box.

Great. Thanks. I hadnt thought of simply joining the two negative terminals up!

Just a couple of quick questions on your setup (its what i plan to do) One alternator as normal to one battery, the other alternator to a second battery. There is no connection between batteries at all? Have you just earthed them both on the gearbox or used different earth points (dont know if that matters at all)? I plan to use on as normal like you and the other for a second fusebox for auxillary electrics.

Theres a plunger on the gate to stop you selecting reverse by accident. I beleive there are two types - one serviceable, the other not. Take the covers off the top of the box and you should find it - sounds like it needs servicing or replacing.

£5.00?! Bargain!

I get so tired of these companies sending you whatever they like when you request a specific thing/make. I too would send them back i think. I wont go to my local supplier for important parts anymore because this has come up time and time again and they always try to fob me off with whatever is on the shelf. You are the customer and you know what you want....

I was wondering the same. Perhaps a few more details (numberplate) and more pics and we could look out for them.

Why not replace the broken viscous unit? Much less hassle (and probably saves you money through saving you time in the long run). They are about £70 new.

Have a look in the tech archive. All you need to know is there. The disco box levers are not in the same place as the defender box so will sit in the front of the middle seat/cubby. It can be made to fit, but isnt stockand requires some cutting.

I've turned the diaphragm about 45 degrees and the starwheel 3/4 of a turn (both clockwise). No great change i have to say, but perhaps a little better. I dont know the history of this engine, so not sure if it has been done before though. The metal 'washer' that is bolted on top of the diaphragm has a small punch mark on it and that was sat at about 2.30 position if 12 o clock is at the front of the pump nearest the timing case. After adjusting, this is now sat at about 5 o clock. There was a definate wear line on the cone that i guess was where the needle runs up and down - at the 12 o clock position. Am i right in thinking that the position of the cone is relative to that 12 o clock position as that is where the pin comes out and touches the cone? I may try another 45 degrees and see. Smoke is fine - only a little on full acceleration. When is the time to adust the full power screw?

Great. I'll start by adjusting the diaphragm and see how i go. If i adjust the starwheel is it by a set amount linked to the turn of the diaphragm (like 30 degrees on the dipahragm, 30 degrees on the starwheel) or just trial and error? Is tipex ok to mark the diaphragm with so you know its original position or is that likely to flake off and block something?

Thanks. So it gives more of a response and presumably a quicker one if you adjust the starwheel rather than if you just adjust the diaphragm position alone? Is there a gasket that needs replacing when removing the top of the pump to do this or (if there is) is it generally ok to be re-used?

I know this has been covered a lot before and i have read most of the previous threads, but i couldnt see the answer to these few questions: 1. If i only want a slight power increase (for motorway cruising with overdrive engaged) is it enough to just turn the diaphragm say 20 degrees clockwise and see what it does? 2. Do i have to do anything to the starwheel as well? 3. I can figure out what the smoke screw does and how turning the diaphragm works, but what does the starwheel and its adjustment actually do? I have a 200tdi (in a 110 CSW) and am just after a little bit more on the motorways for easier cruising at 70 with the OD engaged. Otherwise the engine is in good nick, filters all new, new lift pump, decent quality fuel and cleaner currently in it and a standard size uprated Brunel intercooler (no fuel tweaks yet). I still have to check the boost pressure - have a gauge but not fitted yet. I have no reason to suspect boost is a problem - it goes really well through the gears up to 70, just when i engage the OD in 5th it seems to knock a bit of the power off. There is very littel smoke even at max acceleration (esp now the new intercooler is fitted).