reb78

This is what I did. Looks good as new five years on:

I seem to remember mmgemini reporting this and linking it to movement of the half shaft in and out?

Have you tried a Genuine seal (i.e. bought from Land Rover, or a re-seller but a part in Land Rover packaging)?? I would only ever use genuine, so not OEM or 'G' spec for these parts - as these terms are abused heavily by manufacturers in my experience. Did the part you bought from Paddocks come in Britpart box?

It wont be this on yours, but my 110 was doing similar, I adjusted the rear drums at the weekend and it brakes straight now. I think one was coming on marginally sooner than the other and unbalanced things - that bit could happen with a caliper too if one was jamming. Sounds like you have ruled that out though.

Quite ^^^. It baffles me that Kia hasnt cornered the market. Most of their offerings look as good, if not better, than the SUV’s LR are selling!

Neither are bad ideas - my 5 series had a water/coolant gearbox cooler so presumably that box was happy at about 88C. I dont know what the ideal temp for the R380 is - any ideas anyone?? I will change the oil more frequently - current use, every 10,000 miles is every 5 months!

Whilst they look the same, the Syncro one has a thermostat so presumably this is the same setup, but different looking block to the LR one. They have no stock though and no idea when they will get any! I did think about an inline thermostat but like you say, this could block the flow. There are few inline ones that might bypass back into the inlet line but they would make the route more circuitous so I am not sure its a good idea. Plus I am not sure on the correct temp stat to look for if investigating this route. i.e. https://www.vwheritage.com/ac115335010-oil-thermostat-mechanical-universal-vw-spare?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrZCGp4q04wIVwbHtCh196AKWEAQYASABEgLS3fD_BwE (82C stat) 80C, but not sure if this recirulates cold oil: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/mocal-oil-thermostat-with-1-2-inch-push-on-tails-m-ot-8po

This is my understanding too^^^ I guess is passes from outlet to inlet directly until the stat opens and then it will pass via the cooler?

I keep looking at that. The only thing that makes that box worth anything is the cooler attachement though I think! If its the one I think it is, a preious advert said it was mounted behind a GM V8 so I suspect the box has worked hard! I have contacted a contact at LR to see if they can do anything on the silly price of a new genuine cooler take off.

Haha. No worries. Yes, the prices are mental! I can have the box rebuilt for the cost of the cooler attachment!

Yep ^^ good thinking.

For number 3, reusing the bolts is fine. I have reused the washers before but might be best practice to pick up a pack and replace them (especially if they have lost their spring - i.e. are flat). With the crank seal, i leave it alone these days if its not leaking but I have a ramp that means the job is easier if it does start to leak.

I dont resurface brake discs when i change pads either. It might be cheap but finding machine shops becomes harder and adds a lot of hassle. I’ve never worn a clutch excessively and will get 100k miles out of one easily if not half again. I often end up changing them when a box or engine is out as a precaution before they are worn out.

I don't think most people re-surface flywheels when changing clutches? I haven't before and have had no issues at all - unless it is scored I can't see the need.

No one is doubting you Neil, but what you didn't say is whether you have a thermostat fitted in your cooler take off or not. The Ashcroft one doesn't have one, the factory one does, Syncro advertise one with a thermostat but have no stock or any idea when they will have any again. The genuine attachment is silly money (as much as a gearbox rebuild!) so a bit out of reach.

These are my thoughts too^^^^ no thermostat makes no sense! I spent a good chunk of time in the snow earlier this year and I dont imagine the box would have liked beng cooled at that point. However, in this weather, I would think it would quite like it on my motorway runs from Cornwall to London!

Just an update. Ball joint had loads of play in it that was only really obvious once removed. The bushes on the A frame, although potentially 30 years old were really ok, but I changed them anyway. Amazing how easy this all was with a ramp and the right tools. All done in about an hour and the car is driving more normally now! D3 front lower arms to do next....

I have ordered the bits seperately now. I get to choose the make of the bits and bobs then. Most of the kits only seemed to give a brand for the belt, but the tensioner is just as important and OEM means nothing much these days!

Thanks James. Thats good to know.

Just to add, in case its useful, individual part numbers for the defender 200tdi: ETC8550 - timing belt ERR2530 - tensioner ETC4154 - front cover seal ERR1553 - front cover seal ERC5655 - water pump seal Would anyone add anything else to this?

I used to buy 200tdi timing belt kits from Glencoyne when I needed them, but they aren't on the website there anymore. Where you you buying yours? I could buy the individual parts - I know to get a Dayco belt but what tensioner brand do I look for? The Turner site suggests INA (LRDIRECT are cheaper) but i have never heard of them!

Haha - absolutely. When the HG went on the 110 a couple of years ago I had to get the train back from Callington, Cornwall to Potters Bar, Herts - this meant 45 mins to get to Plymouth, then over 7 hours on trains including the trek across London on the Tube. Cost - a ticket 'door to door' (not really was it as i had to get to Plymouth and back from PB station was an eye watering £100. Plymouth to Paddington was £60 (then a tenner to cross London and a one way ticket to Potters Bar) - how can they justify the £100 for the same route?! I could only take as much as I could carry so didnt have everything I needed for the next week and couldnt leave things on the train as I would a. lose my seat (wasnt going to pay extra to book one!!) and b. the expensive stuff like laptops might get nicked! In the Landy, the trip is 4 1/4 hours and costs about £60 on diesel, nearer £35 on Veg Oil and i can take as much carp as I like, stop when I like (with my stuff locked away), and drive door to door!! There is absolutely no comparison!!! The whole train journey would need to be around £15 to make me consider it seriously!

Hardly rocket science - did anyone really think that if we replace cars one for one with electric ones then it will solve congestion problems?! I wonder how much a report to state the obvious cost! Its likely to make parking more of a nightmare because everyone without a drive will need to park outside their houses and run extension cables to the car - H&S triphazard nightmare!!!

Theres a few on there still for sale: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/migatronic-rallye-166.91927/ THere was a clarke recently but perhaps its sold

Put a wanted ad up on the mig welding forum I linked to earlier. There were a few machines on there that would suit your specs recently - not sure if they have sold.