Pete Attryde

I think he's back in 4 weeks. Unless some nasty poisonous spider gets him .

Hello mate, I took both the anti-roll bars off my Discovery 2 years ago and have had no problems, I did find that there was a little more roll (this was with a 2" ish lift) but not scarily so. Obviously with a bigger lift I would expect more roll. You can keep the anti-roll bars but you will need to space the brackets down by approximately the amount of lift to keep the linkages happy. Anti-roll bars will limit the articulation off road.

When standard mine used to return low 30MPG on my normal B road route to work and a bit more on the motorway at a constant 65-70 MPH. So I suspect something is not quite right with ours.

Yes, I had to cut a hole in the inner wing.

As promised here are some photo's of mine. It takes a standard airfilter element. Not the best shot but you can just see the vertical piece of metal that is the front mount for the original airbox. Inner wing connection Engine connection I don't have the second battery installed yet but at least I have space for it. To be honest I don't fancy making another as it is a lot more tricky to make than it looks.

We would be up for this one too!! The Lakes was great fun last time.

True, however in theory they would do that with the lift springs in also, as the bumpstop should be the limit of upwards travel not the spring or shock.

If the shocks are also +2" then there is a distinct possibility that at full droop the springs will dislocate as the shock limits the down travel of the axle and it will obviously be able to travel lower than with a standard shock. So either retain the springs at both ends (top & bottom) or fit relocation cones or don't drive it off-road .

Mark, I made myself a new airbox with the inlet coming straight through the inner wing as per the safari system. However, I have access to plastic welding equipment at work which made it easier. I didn't have an un-molested standard airbox on mine as the previous owner had drilled a bunch of holes in the front of it . and then replaced it with a nasty K&N type thing that was hugely restrictive. I'll get a photo later. Cipx2 I believe Mark has a Auto with EDC (Japan spec), and I think he said he wanted to keep the battery at the front to keep cable runs as short as possible.

Should slide reasonably easily. Definately shouldn't need to hit it with a hammer.

That's true. I have 31" Muds at the moment, but the the shift point was approximately the same with the standard 29" tyres. When I changed from the standard tyres to the muds I lost a couple of MPG but I think that was more to do the the tread pattern than anything else. I checked the speedo calibration against a couple of GPS systems and it is reasonably accurate and did not change noticeably after changing the tyres.

No, Sorry mine has an LT230, I forgot that Range Rovers had borg warner ones.

I found the biggest improvement in MPG on my Auto Discovery came from changing the transfer box from the Original 1.2:1 ratio one to a Defender 1.4:1 ratio one. I also mostly use mine on small back roads and little or no dual carriage way and motorways. I have found that the gearbox goes to top gear at 42Mph rather than 52MPH as it did with the original transfer box. This has led to a 15 litre saving in fuel a week. (it was using 60litres it is now using 45.) I don't have MPG figures because I haven't worked them out, but I was getting approx 28 MPG before I changed the transfer box.

I recently bought a pair of brake calipers from them and the service was excellent and delivery was nice and quick. I dealt with them direct not via Ebay.

I have just put one on mine and it makes changing the oil so much cleaner. (Less ear ache from the missus about oil on the block paving too ).

I mounted mine in a MudPod above the stereo etc: and with the new matching gauges

EDC is Electronic Diesel Control I think all the 300TDi Auto's were fitted with it but could be wrong. It gives slightly more Horsepower (122 rather than 111 for the Non EDC ones) When it's working correctly it's pretty good but can be a sod to fault find when it goes wrong. To identify if you have an EDC engine there will be an airflow meter in the inlet pipe work and your Injection pump will have a large white electrical connector on it also there is no throttle cable as it uses a throttle potentiometer (the cable that runs from the pedal towards the pump is for the kickdown). As I said above no requirement for a cat on a diesel for the MOT.

Fortunately diesels don't have to have a cat for the MOT, they just need to pass the smoke test . mines passed it's last 2 fine even with the tweeked pump.

To be honest Jim, I convinced my self it made a difference but i'm not sure it does. Also when I did mine originally it still had EDC (which I didn't fully understand) so didn't have the pipe running across to the injection pump.

Right as promised a photo of what i did to fit the breather for the timing cover. Mine is a 300TDI discovery by the way. also the tensioner doesn't do anything at the moment as I have removed the Aircon and not got round to fitting the onboard air.

I went for fitting in the inlet manifold as it shows what boost the engine is seeing, after the losses through the pipe work intercooler etc, rather than the boost the turbo is producing at it's outlet. I also have my waste gate actuation pipe coming from the inlet manifold to help counter some of the losses in the system. Editted to add photo's This is where I drilled and tapped mine originally. This pipe now operates the wastegate. I then fitted the electronic transducer for my new boost gauge in the back end of the inlet manifold. It's the far one. the near one is a leftover from the EDC system and I think it is for inlet temperature. HTH.

That's how I fitted mine. I can get some photo's this evening if you want.

I'll take a photo this evening! I used to to a lot of cycling (and have some Raceface components) don't seem to find the time any more.

Yes there is. However when you fit the wading plug it is a good idea to have a breather installed as dipping the hot engine into cold water can cause rapid cooling and cause water/mud to be pulled in through the dust seal on the crank. This is obviously not a good idea.

I drilled and tapped the tensioner.