Pete Attryde

I used the long one for the EGT as it gets into the gas flow better giving a better response time, and then used the to shorter ones for oil and water. They are all K type thermo-couples so should all give the same readings. You can alter the length of the leads if you need to but you need to use the correct cable and connectors. (These are available from RS etc). Jim the gauges are very good, I also have all three combo gauges. I have had no problems with the service from Dave at McNally's although it can take a couple of days to get a response by email in my experience. mine can be seen here. Pete

Mine came today. Jim you have PM. Thanks for the fantastic effort that has gone into sorting this out. Pete.

To get the spigot out of the middle in a non destructive way, have a read of this thread from the tech archive. Pete.

Now that is very nice. I have the smaller version and have been trying to work out where to put it. I think I now have the perfect solution , thank you very much, Mark. Pete.

I have disconnected it on my 1996 ES with no problem. Sorry can't help with the other bits though. Pete.

The young one is correct. The Kumho USA site has this information.. Pete

This from the Tech archive might help. Pete.

That would be this Photo then! Hope the AWDC don't mind me posting it here . Pete.

Are they steels or alloys? If they are aftermarket steel wheels (modulars etc) the centre hole is larger and does not use the hub centre to position the wheel. This is done by the tapers on the wheel nuts. A photo would probably help . Pete.

On mine I made a right angled bracket out of aluminium and riveted it to the snorkel and used self tappers to hold it to the windscreen pillar. Pete.

Cooper Discoverer ST Pete.

I didn't change any of the injectors, I just cut the lead off No4 (it's only a position sensor for the EDC) and all works fine. I only mentioned the cambelt, etc, as you will need to remove it to change the pump over. Pete.

I did mine awhile ago, but from memory, you will need either the injection pipes from the non EDC engine or to change the 4 unions on the rear of the pump over from the EDC pump to the Non-EDC pump (careful when doing this as there are loose bits that fall out). You will also need a pin/bolt to hold the cable to the throttle arm at the pump end. I am guessing it's an auto so you will need a longer pin/bolt at the throttle pedal end to take both the kickdown cable and the throttle cable. You will need the boost pipe that runs from the turbo to the injection pump. I have fitted a second return spring to the throttle arm on the injection pump to make sure it closes properly. Only other thing I can think of is that you will need to identfy the stop solenoid wire in the white multi-plug or run a new ignition controlled wire. Oh and make sure the Non-edc pump comes with the throttle cable bracket on the back. I would also recommend getting a cambelt kit and replacing the crankshaft seal and the timing cover dust seal whilst you have it all apart. Sorry no part numbers for any of the bits. HTH Pete.

I would suggest that the thermo switch has died and is permenantly switched on. Time for a new one I suspect. Is the switch controlling the fans via a relay or direct? Pete.

The axle should fit no problem, but you may have to change the diff flange from a 3 bolt one to a 4 bolt one. Pete

As Tony says should be 32 spline CV. Half shaft should be 24 spline at diff end on that age vehicle. Pete.

I've not used these people but have seen them recommended 255/85/16 BFG Mud's HTH Pete.

It was certainly the thinking I used when fitting mine on the Discovery. Pete

Mark, Not the cheapest option but you could ditch the EDC and stick a mechanical pump on. It's relatively straight forward to do and I have to say doesn't seem to effect the 'performance' noticably. I guess the other thing to try would be to make a plate up to relocate the MAF further over and forward allowing the airbox to be moved. I did have a look the other day at work and we don't have enough of the material I used to make my airbox to make another one sorry. . Pete.

Chris, I know your not organising this but has a decision been made as to what area we are going to be going to?

As Skanny says the gizmo is the amplifier for the Sub's.

Does it have a turbo? If not then there is not much gain to be had from fitting an intercooler.

I got my blanking plate from Fleabay for a couple of quid and the silicone hose's from allard motors also via Fleabay. Yes, there are some other bits to remove, a solenoid valve and some tubing and wiring. You will also need to block the pipe from the vacuum pump to the solenoid valve.

Tony has kindly altered the post to reflect the fact that I had a lift on mine. To be honest even with a lift it is easier to do if you jack it up as I have had it off a couple of times since I fitted it.

Sounds to me like the Servo might not be working to well. Could be lack of vacuum due to a split pipe or faulty vacuum pump or the servo itself has failed.