Pete Attryde

Just to be picky a 265mm width tyre and a 10.5 inch (Approx 266mm) wide tyre are almost exactly the same width.

I have a selection of used springs of various poundages and lengths that you are welcome to try if you want to bring the front down a bit when you bring it over to be sprayed. At the back you can fit the rubber spring Isolators that are used on Discovery/Range Rovers, I think that one top and bottom gives approximately 1" lift although if it is dislocating at the rear then this might not be a viable option.

I have fitted an EGT gauge and Boost gauge, and then tweeked the boost and fuelling whilst keeping the EGT safe. Standard intercooler as I can't afford a bigger/better one yet, I also moved the boost sense line for the waste gate to the inlet manifold so that it sees the boost pressure after any losses through the intercooler etc, and as mine is a Discovery Auto on 31" tyres,I fitted a 1.4:1 transfer box. I also changed the downpipe to a non cat Defender one I have to say it seems to have plenty of go although it does run out of steam a 80 ish but I don't go there very often so don't care. Mine was originally an EDC (122 BHP) engine and I changeed it over to a mechanical pump ( Nominally 111 BHP) and I feel that it now goes better for the sort of driving I do, than it did.

That looks very much like the one produce by West Coast Customs in the show on Discovery. I guess the white one is another vehicle possibly produced later on.

And if you want to see it being made look for the repeat of Mondays Custom My Ride on the Discovery Channel, as it was about putting it together.

And if it is they are not exactly local :- Another Clicky!

I think this is who he ment:- Clicky

I will probably go for the grind a bit out then try it method rather than just grinding a huge lump out, but having a picture to give me an idea of what I can get away with is handy.

Excellent, a picture makes it so much easier. Thanks Dave.

Thanks for that Mr milemarker. I know what I shall be doing over the weekend.

I am sure your correct however to get the casing to be in the correct position at full drop the diff pinion would be pointing up to much at normal ride height. I have seen arms with the bush mounting off set to presumably stop this happening, However I am skint at the moment so I don't want to have to buy new arms if I can just grind a bit out of the bracket.

Whilst changing the rear springs on my Discovery the other evening I noticed that as the axle approaches maximum droop, the radius arm is hitting the bracket on the axle and limiting the travel. This happens with the shocks connected as I have 11" OME shocks, and Gwynn's challenge mounts, cranked radius arms and X-springs. Would I be correct in thinking that I can clearance the bracket on the axle to stop the radius arm hitting, and if so how much material is it safe to remove? Thanks in advance.

Mostly because I have in built distrust of email as I have more than once had emails disappear into the ether never to be seen again, leading to mis-understandings and missed appointments, so for the sake of a couple of minutes I find a follow up call is no hard ship. Just my opinion that's all.

Tris, Nothing personal mate, I have to say that I personally generally don't bother to read or reply to posts that are hard to read/understand for what ever reason. I also agree that it's good to get feedback about companies when they have provided good/bad service. I am definately going to be looking for alternative suppliers to Paddocks/ Craddocks as the service and ideed the quality of parts is geting worse. On a side, note when are you up to spray the 90?

I would suggest giving David a call as I have had nothing but excellent service from him when dealing with him on the phone.

Blimey, your not wearing very well then Mark. . I do how ever agree with the lack of punctuation, etc making it hard to read. I have to say I have both good and bad service from Craddocks but I only buy online from them have never been to the shop.

Indeed, Well done Jez and the team. Great result for a test drive.

I have tried standard, Delphi and OME and would definately go for OME again should the need arise. I believe LLama 4x4 do a Rough Country one which if they are made as well as the shock absorbers will be good value for money, plus you get a forum discount if you speak to David.

I have had both procomps and rough country and would echo the above Procomp's failed really quickly and looked to be badly made from poor materials, rough country seem to be of much better construction (especially for the cost) and work well. Plus David at LLama 4x4 is a top bloke to deal with should you have any problems.

Mark, I had vibration issues caused by the change in rear diff pinion angle on mine after I fitted the 2" lift. I solved it by fitting longer radius arms which corrected the angle. I also found the rubber donut only lasted about 6 months after I lifted mine. On the front I ended up with a double cardon prob but I also have castor corrected hockey sticks.

Welcome to the forum, Might I suggest doing a search as this has been covered many times before. For what it's worth I intially tried a simple 2" lift (springs and shocks) on mine but found that I needed to get castor correction for the front end and a new double cardon propshaft, at the rear I ended up replacing the rear prop shaft for one with universal joints at both ends as I was destroying the rubber donut thing in about 6 months. I also had to replace the rear radius arms for cranked ones to get the chassis bush to work correctly. I also replaced all the brake lines for longer ones just to be on the safe side. You will also have to either remove the anti-roll bars or make spacers for the mountings as the links can reverse because of the lift causing problems. You may also still have to trim the rear wheel arches to clear the wheels at full articulation depending on what size tyres you have. (I have 31"x10.5"x15" on modular wheels on mine and I had to cut mine) I have now dropped mine back to standardish ride height as I had problems with the springs sagging at the rear and I decided I didn't like the ride and handling with the lift. You should also tell your insurance company about the modifications.

Erm, is it just me or is there no airfilter in that system? If so I dont think your engine is going to like you much .

For the Oil Pressure sender you can remove the oil warning light switch and install an adapter that allows you to T the pressure sender in to the same port, In fact you could probably get an an adapter with three ports that would allow the oil temp sender to be installed in the same place. Merlin motor sport, Demon Tweeks and other such places all sell them. I think the thread in the oil filter housing is M10 x 1mm female so the adapter will need a M10 x 1mm male port and an M10 x 1mm plus 1 or 2 ports to suit the pressure sender and temperature sender, these often 1/8th NPT. I have no idea what thread the oil filter is.

I have +2" Gwyn Lewis shock mounts on mine but then I have Gwyn's challenge kit on mine. He also does -1" and Standard length ones. The website doesn't show prices but I don't think they were expensive. Shock Turrets. David at LLama 4x4 lists them for £46 inc VAT for a pair and gives a forum discount.

I got mine through Paddocks, was about £90 about a year ago, and it fitted fine. Radiator for a 300TDi from Paddocks.