Pete Attryde

Welcome to the forum. Does it have EDC (Electronic Diesel Control)? You can tell if it has, as there will be an airflow meter between the airbox and turbo. If so they have a throttle potentiometer that can cause problems with the engine going to tickover at part throttle settings, this usually is accompanied by the check engine light coming on. Again if EDC the ECU connections can corrode and cause problems as well this can be cured by disconnecting the connector and cleaning it out with solvent cleaner. Disco TD4 I think you should get a warning light on the dash if the transmission starts to overheat. There is/was a sensor in the pipe work near the cooler on mine.

If it's a TDI . The rev counter is driven from the alternator, so I suspect that either the connection on the alternator is dodgy or the alternator it's self is on it way out. If it's a V8 I can't help.

Tris, There is an oil seal but I can't remember what the part number is. Pete

Assuming a 300TDi and EGR EGR blanking plate Replacement top intercooler hose HTH Pete

If they are standard Discovery Springs you may actually find they are softer than the standard 90 springs. I have just replaced the standard Green/brown ANR3447 Discovery springs with Defender NRC9448 Blue/reds as they are about 10Lb/in harder than the Discovery springs but approximately the same free length. Data taken from Here HTH

From this thread the part number you need is ESR2297. HTH Pete.

WD-40 works for removing glue but can get expensive if your doing large areas.

From personal experience the adjustable stat from kenlowe is almost totally useless as they have a habit of corroding up and then not working when you need them too. Also I never managed to get a good seal on the radiator hose where the capillary goes in. This is why when I fitted the fan to this Discovery I threw it away and went for the X-fan switch which fits in to the radiator hose in a proper fitting using a sealed intermotor switch, this makes for a reliable system even if you go wading/ mud plugging. As Jim said the standard gauge is really inaccurate they are sort dead around the middle of the gauge so you can go from normal running temperature to fatal over heating and the gauge will barely move. This obviously makes setting the fan switch up quite difficult. Changing the stat will potentially make the engine run warmer but I suspect that you will find that the gauge barely changes it's normal position. I strongly recommend getting something like the X-fan switch (I am nothing to do with the company just a satisfied customer) and fit that and then forget about the system as it will work just fine. Mine is a 300TDI Auto without the viscous fan and normal daily commuting with the engine up to operating temperature (93C measured at the cylinder head with a thermocouple in the water way) see about a +/- 12 degree C change depending on how fast I am going/ not going and the fan which is set to come on at 92C never switches on (it does work as if I do a load of offroading or a really long steep up hill it will cut in for a minute or two) as the stat is controling the temperature using the airflow through the rad whilst the vehicle is moving.

I also have a kenlowe fan (although switched using an X-fan switch from X-eng) on a 300TDi auto and the only time I have had the fan cut in under normal every day driving conditions was when the radiator had lost most of it's fins and was not cooling correctly. The gauge never moved above the 'normal' position. It was the fact that the fan was cutting in that led me to investigate the cooling system and fix it before I completely melted the engine. So as Bogmonster says most of the time they are over-cooled and you shouldn't be able to get the fan to cut in.

I have my standard sub connected to an aftermarket head unit. It does involve altering the wiring at the head unit end, from the standard connector to a couple of phono plugs to allow it to connect but it's hardly rocket science to sort out. Mines a 1996 ES if that makes any difference. Pete.

Well, in that case stick them on and see what happens. On the front of my Discovery the red/whites gave almost a 4" lift over the standard springs.

I would go with Bogmonster's idea and fit NRC9448 (15.31" free length 225Lbs/in) 90 rears. Pete

I found my 300TDI was a real sod to start on cold mornings when it had EDC but as soon as I went to a mechanical pump I don't have to use the heaters (although they are connected and do work) at all. I believe others have found the same. When I did the head on mine I just did as Jim suggested and cracked all 4 injector feed pipes at the injector end and got the missus to turn the engine over on the starter motor until I had a good amount of fuel was coming out of the pipes and then (while the engine was still turning over) tightened each one up. I could hear each cylinder start to fire, I did start with the sensor injector but i'm not sure it matters. Did the crank position sensor get disconnected when the head was removed? As it's connector is with the connector for the sensor injector.

Don't think mines in here yet. Taken last weekend in Bala.

Me and SWMBO will also be camping. It would appear to be in Edale , as we are taking a couple of the spaces in Tris's tent. At least i think we are.

What q-rover said, plus I believe you could get fined by the environment agency if they caught you polluting a river by laying an oil slick as you crossed a ford.

Hopefully in November if this happens.

Indeed, I think some one enjoyed herself today. After a nervous start (had to convince herself that it wasn't going to run away down hill if she didn't brake) She did brilliantly and quickly got the hang of driving it off road. If I've done this right there should be a video clip :- If I'm not careful I am going to end up in the passenger seat to often,

To quote the text written on the dip stick on mine, "Check Cold, Idling in Neutral, Do Not Over Fill". Have fun it's not the easiest thing to get a clear reading for.

On My Discovery (1996) they are M10x1 threads at the caliper and inner wing fitting, I can't say about the master cylinder as I have not had to change one yet.. Mine has ABS by the way.

Both weekends are fine for us. And the area will be good too as it's not to far away again . Have to agree on no Youth Hostels as was last one wasless than inspiring. Could be interested in the treasure hunt in August, but only if it is in the first two weeks, as we are holidaying in Hampshire so would be quite close.

On my 300TDi they are T40. HTH Pete

Just to clarify my mileage was verified by GPS not relying on the Speedo (although it is actually pretty accurate).

Could you not measure the current consumption of the ECU etc with everything switched off and then install a suitably rated (i.e low) fuse that bypasses the cut off switch to keep them powered up, but being a low current rating would blow if someone tried to start the vehicle without de-isolating the batteries.

Whilst i don't disagree with you. Mine has had 3 MOT's since I removed the ARB's at different Testing stations and no mention of the missing ARB's has been made by any of them, and all the brackets are still on the axles and chassis. I have also informed my insurance company (NFU) who had no problem with the modification.