Pete Attryde

In a series connected system i'm not sure there will be any issues, in a parallel system it can cause the batteries to discharge each other. We used to do this to get 12v on 24v fire engines and never had any problems. If you take the feed off the positive terminal of the battery with the(vehicle)earth connected to it you could make all the earths for the squirt etc on the chassis/body rather than having to take them back to the batteries. Pete.

Looking at the Ashcroft website gives the following :- My Autogearbox is now only able to select reverse. Why? Your A clutch (forward drive) has failed and you will require a replacment autobox. taken from here :- Click Me Pete.

I used the non-flexi one on mine when I did mine (click here) 3 years ago and it caused no problems for me at all. In fact the same downpipe is still on the engine now that I have transplanted it into the defender. Pete.

I don't know anything about Mogs, but does it use 2 batteries in series to create the 24v? If it does just take the power for the pump,squirt etc off 1 of the batteries as this would be 12v, it is a smaller enough drain that it would be in my opinion unlikely to cause any issues. Pete.

Would be up for at least a rugby shirt and cap. Pete.

Did you have any problems with the handling or vibration from the propshafts before you put the winch on? If not, as all you are doing is returning the ride height to what it was prior to the winch being fitted it should be the same as it was before the winch was fitted. It will still only be a 2" lift as all you are doing is raising the height by the amount the springs got compressed by the weight of the winch. ie it was a 2" lift which (by fitting the winch) you reduced to a 1" lift, so by fitting 1" spacers you will be returning it to a 2" lift. HTH Pete.

Disco 2 one needs a different t-box flange and doesn't have much in the way of grease nipples. Pete.

Scrub radius:- Pete

I too have had an issue with David @ LLama 4x4. I am still waiting after more than 2 years for a warranty shock to replace one that failed. I have now given up, but for at least 18 months phoned, emailed and indeed spoke to him in person at 2 indoor 4x4 shows, he has always been appologetic and polite and has repeatedly told me that he has a post-it note stuck to his pc screen to remind him to send it out. But I have not received the item. As I say I have now given up, I am sure I have just been unlucky and he has many, many satisfied customers but sadly will no longer be recommending him to people. Pete.

Soren, You are indeed correct. I had not had enough coffee when I posted. Pete.

My understanding and experience is that if the suspension is lifted approx 2" or more you may suffer a lack of self centering / vague steering going in a straight line. This is caused by the angle castor being altered, because the axle will have rolled (lifting the diff pinion) because of the steeper angle of the hockey sticks with relation to the chassis. Jack the front end up on the chassis and watch what the axle does. To cure this lack of self centering you can fit either bushes or corrected arms this restores the castor angle but then can put the phasing of the front propshaft out, causing vibrations at which point you fit a double cardon prop to cure the prop vibration. I have used both bushes (great for a road vehicle but due to the way the are made not very flexible) and castor corrected arms (Britpart as it happens but amazingly they are well made.) both methods cured the steering, both required a double cardon prop. Eventually i have gone back to standard height suspension/props as the U/J's are easier to change and cheaper. I got my double cardon prop from Devon 4x4, but have heard good things about propshaft clinic and Gwynn Lewis's products. HTH Pete. editted to correct stupid school boy error pointed out by Soren

oh the joys of landrover ownership I would check to see if you have a good 11-12v at the stop solenoid wiring. If not investigate further or replace with a new wire from the ignition switch to the stop solenoid thus eliminating the spider from that circuit. Pete.

Not sure about P38 but the Discovery 1 and 2 Auto's use the LT230 and ZF box. I have ZF and LT230 in my 90. Pete.

If with a wire from the battery to the solenoid the engine works then the problem is with the existing car wiring not the solenoid. Do you have a test lamp or multimeter to confirm that you are getting 12v at the original stop solenoid wire with the ignition on? Pete

I'll try Basically what I found was the lift caused the axle to roll the diff nose upwards as the angle on the radius arms got steeper. This caused the prop flange to not be vertical in the rest position, causing a I suspect a prop phasing issue. I asked on here for ideas and Bill Van Snorkel suggested looking at adding a small spacer to the trailing arms to roll the axle back to it's normal rest position. Tried this and problem went away. Ask Bish as I suggested it to him awhile back when he had a similar problem and I believe it cured his too. Conversely I have just had the opposite happen as I returned mine to standard height but with longer cranked trailing arms left over from the lift and this rolled the axle to far the other way so I had to shorten the arms (by moving the chassis bush to the other side of the chassis mount.) to bring the diff pinion angle back to standard. HTH Pete.

You could try running a wire from the battery positive to the stop solenoid connection and then try starting it. This will, if the engine then starts, tell you if the wiring is at fault (if the engine does start you will have to stop by pulling the wire off. Also when you connect the wire listen for a click of the fuel solenoid actuating, as it could just be a dead stop solenoid. Pete.

Nige, Does it have a lift? Does it have castor corrected arms? As if IIRC a double cardon prop is usually only needed if it does. Is the noise definately coming from the front? If it is lifted is the rear diff flange at the correct angle with relation to the transfer box? As I found on mine that lifting the suspension 2" using standard trailing arms caused the diff pinion angle to change, causing a similar noise. I corrected it by adding a 5mm spacer to the trailing arm at the chassis bush end. HTH Pete.

I would suggest doing a search for 'three amigos' as it will bring up some useful information. Pete.

You could also try this lot:- windscreens Not used them my self but the price seems reasonable. Pete.

Slightly OT, but whilst flicking through the channels on sky this morning I came across Trophee Andros Electrique (French Ice Racing) which is a series for electric only vehicles on Motors TV. Very odd watching a car race (especially the start) with no engine noise just a high pitch whine. Pete.

I guess it could. I didn't look into the symptoms of the failure on mine I just pulled it out and mounted a thermocouple for EGT in it's place. I know on mine the inlet manifold was so clogged with 'marmite' that the internal diameter of the inlet was 10mm smaller than it should have been and that since removing the EGR and cleaning the inlet manifold none of the marmite has come back, and the engine now smokes less, can't say I actually noticed much difference in performance from blanking it off. Pete.

Nope, it diverts hot exhaust gases into the inlet manifold, eventually coating it with a thick layer of marmite like goo. Pete.

Surely if you select the pulley sizes correctly then it should be possible to spin the charger fast enough at idle to generate boost. I accept that it will over speed if the engine speed increases much, but it should still be able to boost at tickover. Pete

Only if the valve has not stuck open, which they seem to quite often do. Pete.

All the front springs are the same diameter it is only 110 and 130 rears that are the larger diameter. Pete.