Pete Attryde

Mike, Only just seen this. I have a pair of genuine NRC9448's on the back of the Discovery, which I need to change for some slightly stiffer springs, probably going for HD90 rears (NRC9462). So you can have the NRC9448's for a suitable donation. Pete.

Shouldn't effect MOT at all. Especially as most often the EGR is being removed because it has jammed open and is causing excessive smoking which would lead to a fail. Mine has been done for 3 or so years and has been fine for every MOT. Pete.

I have found Brit-car to very helpful. However I have no idea if they would ship to you but it can't hurt to ask. They can supply genuine or pattern parts. Pete.

Got mine today . Many thanks to all who made this happen again. Pete.

To avoid confusion my reply was to disco_al's question. however as the almighty Les, says make sure the inlet manifold and intercooler are clean. On mine the crud build up in the inlet manifold was about 5mm thick and was restricting the airflow in to the manifold. I used petrol to clean it out but you have to remove the inlet manifold and the intercooler to do it. Pete.

No need to remove it if the rest of the EGR system is gone, but its only 2 or 3 screws to remove if you want to. Pete.

When I originally did mine I removed and blanked all three pipes but left the connector plugged in and had no problems at all. The electronic pump injection pump has no parts on it to remove for the EGR, The mechanical pumps do it's a throttle potentiometer. So you can't do anything with the injection pump anyway. Eventually I disconnected the valve and removed it and taped the plug to the rest of the loom again with no ill effects. I used to get low 30's running 255/65/16 all terrains. You may find that changing to a 1.44:1 Transfer box rather than the 1.22:1 standard Discovery box helps with economy on short runs with the larger tyres you are running. I now have 255/85/16 Cooper ST's and a 1.44:1 T-box and still get high 20's on a 20 mile b-road (50mph typically) commute. Mine is also a 1996 300TDi Auto with a winch, snorkel, etc although no roof rack. Also mine no longer has the electronic injection pump but a tweaked mechanical pump. Pete.

Generally speaking the front will be out of phase and the rear will be in phase. Pete.

I have Gwyn's mounts and +5" OME shocks with X-springs on the back of my Discovery and they work very well together. Pete.

Both. There are weights and springs inside the body of the distributor that change the timing using centrifugal force. This is in addition to the vacuum advance. Pete.

Nige, Don't know which one Boothy got but here's a linky thing for Summit Racing . Seems to be quite a few to choose from. Pete.

I would also suggest getting the tracking/ wheel alignment checked. If you do end up having to get castor corrected arms you will also need to get a double cardon propshaft to cure the vibrations that will occur. If you don't need to have the lift I would suggest fitting standard Landrover springs as it will work out cheaper in the long run. Pete.

Ok, I know these are not the best photo's but:- This shows the top of an EDC/Flybywire pump. this will physically fit but will not work with a non EDC engine. This shows the top of a Non EDC pump that had EGR but no immobiliser. This pump was supplied by CWS4x4. I will go and see if I can find any part numbers on my pump. Pete Editted to add. The pump I have on mine also has 1 465 530 724 part number on the boost diaphram housing and I couldn't find an ERR number. Pete.

I believe it is for the EGR system. It is coolant/cylinder head temperature. Pete.

I am reasonably sure that it won't matter, as the EGR bit just bolts to the top of the throttle spindle and has it's own connector. I have used an EGR pump (with the EGR removed) when I converted mine from EDC, from memory all the 300TDI pumps are physically interchangeable although obviously the EDC one won't work with out the rest of the system. As long as the stop solenoid is supplied with a 12v ignition controlled supply (one that is not effected by cranking) then the lack of immobiliser shouldn't matter either. Hope this helps Pete.

Mine is also a modded Southdown one:- Pete.

Also imagine the looks on peoples faces at a run what you brung/ track day if underneath the very nasty exterior there is a sorted engine and suspension/brake package so the thing is indecently fast. Would appeal to my sense of humour. Pete

Not as much as you expected, but more than you hoped for. Pete.

That looks tidier than the 90 . Sounds like a good trip. Look forward to the photo's. Pete.

If you use either the 1.4:1 or 1.2:1 transfer box instead of the 1.6:1 box you will accelerate even slower . Changing the diff ratio is the better way to go as it will lower the gearing in both high and low range making for better control offroad. If it was me, and I had the cash, I would go with Dave W's suggestion of the 1.2:1 transfer box and 4.11:1 diff ratios which should give you a reasonable balance of gearing for on and offroad. Pete.

Morning or afternoon? Pete

Mike, one of the guys I work with may be able to alter the frequency range of the ones you have or at least have the information to allow me to do it. Pete.

Yours cost you the welding wire and gas , mine cost me nothing as I was given the box spanner and used your welder . Pete.

Mo, I can't remember if you have lockers? Could you use a Pneumatic strut (powered by the arb compressor) to power the door open/closed? Pete.

I think the black box is the spider unit for the immobiliser. Is yours an Auto? The green box I showed is the alarm ECU which on an Auto also does the job of the black box (there is no Black box in the dash.) Replacing the Green box is more complicated than just swapping it as you will need to get your remotes programmed to it. Pete.