Steve 90

A 2 dayer would be cool, With plenty of special stages, punch's and a night special! Make it more of an all round event. Bit like the decider and the 4x4Adv 2 day series round this year. A bit of something for everyone.

Mmmm, ive been looking into ways of castor correcting, Think I will probably clock my swivels. I have bent the std cast arms a couple of times so not keen on going for anything lighter weight.

No need for a relay James. Just find an ignition concious feed, There will be plenty behind the dash, pinch one off the other dash lights is easiest. Hook it up to a spare warning light then from the other side of the bulb to the warning light terminal on the alt'.

Put a large socket over the stub in the middle (which is defo pressed in) and use a bolt with a nut and a large washer on it though the middle of the socket and use it like a puller to jack it out.

This ones been done to death, A quick search will bring up all the info you could ever need. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34682&hl=

Well they are finished and painted now but it will be a few weeks until the truck is back together for a test drive as there is a huge mountain of work to get through. Here the only pics I have finished and they are not great as I only had my phone. Pretty much a copy of Simon Bucks 110 just with a larger bush and not as tidy! I'll let you know as soon as its up and running.

Why thankyou for your kind words sir ! Didn't finish them today as I got involved in a stack of other stuff. Did get a bit done.

Will do but I cant see there will be any problems. I got the other chassis ears done today and tacked in place so I should have them finished in the morning.

Yep, I totally agree Nige. Trouble is, after a lot of time searching and ordering and sending back numerous sets, I really have failed to find a decent set of twin front pipes. Which is why I decided to make my own. But no, is times against me, again!

Pretty please Nige! Do you think it would work with the rr V8 Nige? Is the water pump (and there for the fan) in the same place as a 90/110 V8? I think I'll have to extend it and cut some bits out around the steering box and bottom hose (both top and bottom hoses are on the left of rad now) but I figure it should fit otherwise. Cheers. Steve. P.S. Please excuse my ignorance, V8's are all new to me.

Because I really dont like electric fans, especially for what I do. The viscous is much more reliable, moves much more air and works brilliantly. If they do fail its more often than not in the locked position which is fine, Atleast you can finish the event and if they do loose drive you can usually jam them to drive to finish the day. Electrics really dont like mud and water, Need a massive one or probably 2 smaller ones to move the same air as the viscous and if you have a decent thermostat there shouldn't be any real problem with warm up time using a viscous. Basically its simple and it works. If an electric goes in the middle of no where theres not much your going to do. If I have to i'll run an electric, we have done for years so its not the end of the world but If I have a choice it will be viscous. Cheers. Steve.

I have no problem with sticking with the std cast manifolds but the front pipe welding is poor and the bends and the "Y" branches are terribly made and very restrictive. Im not too bothered what the power gains are as long as they aren't power losses which is what I suspect you would get from the aftermarket front pipes. In an ideal world a gain in mid would be nice but if its all I can get at reasonable money I could live with a top end increase. Most important is that they fit between the chassis and dont hang below the bottoms of the rails. Preferably tucked up out of the way a good bit. Cheers. Steve.

I hope to run a viscous fan with the RR V8 im fitting to the 90 but will need to have a cowl to make it work. The engine in my truck is set a long way back but Im hopeing a std factory V8 cowl would be a good starting point to make something to suit. Does anyone have a few Pics of the V8 cowl and the dimension from the rad to the back edge of the cowl (how far it sticks back to where the fan sits in it)? so I can get some idea before splashing out some hard earned cash. Cheers. Steve.

Original plan was to stick with std Range rover manifolds and fab some front pipes that are well tucked away to go with the 4.2 RV8 that im fitting to my truck. All the aftermarket std front pipes are poor (and thats being kind to them, They really are terribly made) so thats out of the question. But, with an ever increasing "to do" list I need to start looking at some ways of lessening the work load or I'll never get to drive the thing. So what tube headers are available at reasonable cost and tuck away nicely between the chassis and auto box when fitted to a 90? Im sure I will have to make some adjustments to get them how I'd like but something somewhere near as a starting point would be great. Cheers. Steve.

Yes Dave, Going to box between the ears with some 3mm plate to give a bit of strength and also stop them being a mud trap. Then tapper a piece of box out for a few inch's infront of them along the chassis. Will post some pics when its done, Hopefully toight if all goes well. BTW, An A frame polly/superpro bush fits perfectly inside a piece of Blue band roll cage tubing (48mmx3.2mm)

Mmm, It certainly does. Any idea what sort of money they fetch? Are they still available?

Right, here it is. Take of plate with the normal swept 90 deg unions was still a bit on the tight side. I really wanted to Keep the motor as low as possible so needed something else. Yet again the Nice people at Merlin Motorsport had what I needed in the post straight away. So I got all the clearances sorted and half way through the engine mounts. Then need to get everything plumbed in. Thanks Guys. Steve.

Snap! I did these earlier in the week. Also thought the small bush (rear trailing arm type) was probably too stiff. Wasn't really worried about it feeling harsh but more the fact that things that vibrate a lot tend to have lots of stuff that comes loose and brackets that crack. So I went for two, slightly modified, A frame bush's either side. Hope to get the rear chassis "ears" for either mount tacked on tomorrow after work then pull the motor back out and weld it up, along with some load spreading on the chassis. Then a pressure wash (as long as the washer has thawed out ) and a splash of paint. BTW, Also for a 4.2!

Hi sorry guys. Yes the info is excellent and just what I need. I have been keeping a sneaky eye on the thread but things are so busy at present I tend to only be able to find time to check on stuff while multi tasking, Making replies a little difficult. Damn work, It gets in the way of everything! :angry2: Im a poor typer and trying to write a reply while on the phone ordering bits just doesn't work :lol: So thanks guys, info was spot on, The links to the pages for the cooler setup were very interesting. Ive got a take off plate but 90 deg elbows were going to make it all a bit close with the axle so Im now waiting for some Banjo bolts to arrive which I hope will give plenty of clearance. I'll post some pics as soon as I have it sorted.

As I suspected it looks like im going to need a remote oil filter as there is an issue with the std filter and the axle. Ive seen some take off plates that replace the oil pump housing and relief valve which look neat but im not sure how the oil cooler fits with this. So does the oil cooler just go in series with the oil filter????? As in, Pipe from oil pump housing to filter then to cooler then back to block??? All the ones ive delt with in the past have had a thermostatic valve on the cooler take off's but I assume this isn't needed and only an aid to faster warm up's. So what are people using and how have they piped it up to include the oil cooler? Cheers. Steve.

My trucks in the middle of a make over and at the same time getting a V8 fitted. The engine is being fitted in roughly the same position as the early 90's with the 4 cyl petrols, N/A diesel, Td's and lastly 200Tdi's with the short bell housing LT77 gearbox. Were any of the Factory V8's fitted in this position?? If so what years were they and does anyone have any decent pics of under bonnet layout??? I hope to be able to source some stuff like rad hoses, rad cowels etc etc off the shelf rather than having too many custom made bits. Also has anyone fitted an EFi V8 in this position? Other than the bulk head needing cutting to miss the exhaust headers the only issue I can see is I dont think the Air intake or the throttle and kickdown cables will clear the heater box. I think a small mod to the heater box might fix it or maybe throwing the heater box away. Not to keen on throwing it as it may help the cooling if its a bit border line. So any other problems I might run in to?? Cheers. Steve. P.S. Before anyone says it, Ive tried a search of the forum. lots of info but nothing specific to the engine being in this position.

Thats funny, So am I!

Tdi Discovery rear 887mm's long. Also Defender 200 front 685 Def 200 rr 667 Def 300 fr 637 Def 300 Rr 720

Hi. Does anyone have an exploded diagram with part numbers of the gear box mounts and cross member of a 300 Tdi auto discovery? Also anything else with a similar setup. Many thanks. Seve.