Steve 90

Brilliant, Thanks Tony. Just what I needed. Steve.

Can anyone post an exploded diagram, hopefully with Part numbers, of the Disco 2 (TD5) cable operated diff lock/hi-lo mechanism, inc' cables (late disco year 2004 I think) and the Range rover classic (1994 4.2 LSE but think any of them will do) auto shifter lever setup. Im trying to be sure I order everything I need for them and the parts people at our dealer are not really grasping what im after. So hopefully if I can look at the exploded view and write a list of part numbers for the items I need it will make life easier. Cheers. Steve.

I think its the tread pattern, width, rubber compound and the flexible side wall that makes the difference. The grip on the sort of tree roots that would stop a simex is brilliant which I would put down to the rubber compound and flex in the side wall. They also clean very well and when they do start to spin they will usually keep driving and don't just dig big holes like a simex.

Yep, They are brilliant. Grip on a wide range of surfaces is brilliant. They out grip a simex 95% of the time and even in the 5% they don't out do them they are at least equal to them. There is no side slope issue, I drive side slopes on mine most people wouldn't full stop and never had an issue. The only down side is width on the very tight events when there are small gaps between the tree's but its a small price to pay for the brilliant grip and something that you can usually find a way round. To get the best out of them you will want beadlocks as they really do come into there own at 8psi and below.

As far as reasons for change Jase has summed it up pretty well. We spoke about it a bit. The trucks having some major alterations with engine/gearbox change/reposition and pretty much a complete re work of the rear end so it makes sense to get the cage up to spec while im at it. I have a Whitbread 48mm blueband cage on mine. I bought it as a flat pack/mail order job and fitted myself. I think the design of them has changed a bit since I had mine. Mine fits very tightly just like the Tight fit P&P and NOR cages but some ive seen since are much larger hoops with straight runs between the main and front hoops??? Ive been more than happy with the Whitbread cage, It fitted very nicely and has stood up to some proper heavy rolls (as in multiple end over end rolls not flopping on its side) without any damage. Heres a couple of pics. Front. Rear. The rear hoop looks to stand above the roof due to the white roof and light but it doesn't as you can just about see in the next pic. Side...ish. Not too sure about the newer, larger Whitbread cages ive seen but im sure he will still do the tight fit if asked. as for the new one, Im very happy with it. Nobody could compete with the price of the P&P so thats what I went for. Its just over 50mm CDS to MSA spec and as I said earlier the quality of the bends is top class. The fit (as far as I can tell at the moment) is fantastic so its looking good so far.

Yes mate, I'll sort some pic's. Planning on fitting the cage once I have christmas out the way and the engine and box in place so will be early Jan I suspect

Last week I recieved 2 hawse from saley and they are absolutely top quality. Very nice machine work. Very happy with them. Cheers John. Steve.

Ive googled this and got lots of conflicting answers so I dont trust any of them. Ive searched the forum and found lots of interesting stuff that was good reading but no answer to tank capacity. Can anyone tell me how much fuel a tank on an early 90 (the one under the drivers seat) Will hold???? Cheers. Steve.

Just had a new cage arrive from the nice people at P&P. They are brilliant to deal with and would recommend them on that alone. Its the tight fitting truck cab cage (they do two, One larger with straight roof bars and one tight fitting with bends in the roof bars) The bends are second to none, They really are nice, No flattening, shrinking or distortion and the shape of the cage fits the truck cab 100%, perfect size and shape to fit the truck cab snugly. Its come as bent tubes that need notching and welding (coz thats what I asked for) and you can spec pretty much anything you want. We had a criss cross in the main hoop and 3 roof bars plus top diagonal. Im over the moon with the quality/fit and the price was a fraction of the cost anywhere else (we did buy two so had a slightly better deal, the owner of the other wont take a genius to work out reading this thread) They also do all the fixtures and fitting and load spreading plates for the chassis if you want. So ive had two dealings with P&P lately, both I can not fault and would recommend their cage's (infact all products as the A frame is very nice) to anyone, Even the most fussy.

Yep, Weve fitted quite a few in the past to pug's, fords, landrovers,VW's etc etc. No mater what its on they never seem to be quite right afterwards. More often than not you get some chatter at idle and they just dont seem to run as nice with harshness in parts of the rev range. We dont tend to fit them on newer stuff any more but if its something a bit older thats just a run about we offer it as a cheaper option.

Incase they do something like this They must have been new to the sport or something Sorry Jim, couldn't resist!

Protection and performance are putting kits on fleabay for not a lot a cash? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Truck-Cab...oQQcmdZViewItem

Forms are in an envelope complete with stamp, Just need to find a post box!

Think what you meant to say was :D :D

No contest Tim!

Welcome to all the new Mod's.

I'd forgot about that, Twaz hilarious, BuzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzBANG!

OK, My point was that the castor is what does the self centering and if that is not right to start with then it does not matter what is hooked to it. B) My truck's a pig, doesn't self centre because of the lack of castor and it runs a steering box. I'll do something about it when I swap axles!

As it is with any steering system. Castor is what gives you self centering in any steering setup. I get the impression if people are having issues is less to do with hydro and more to do with axle fitment.

Think yaself lucky, atleast you had a tent! It was bl**dy cold. Think the coldest night was sleaping on the trailer in a massive, draufty turkey shed the night before the event started. another high light being driving across the top of the mountains with no door tops or heater, snow and hail blowing straight througfh the truck, still soaking wet from the river crossings. Excellent, I cant wait.

When I originally fitted my hydro assist it wasn't for lighter steering, I was looking for a way of protecting the steering box a bit and reducing the chances of a day ending shaft breakage. But now I run boggers at low PSI the assistance is needed. Ive been more than pleased with it 90% of the time but it does need to be faster for the quicker events with timed stages through the trees etc so, as the faster, special stage events are the ones I enjoy its time for a re think.

Totally agree. Theres no redundancy if a drag link end breaks! I cant see any problems with full Hydro and want to go that way. The only thing that stops me is the grey area's and the fact people insist on sturring it up and bringing it to the attention of VOSA and SVA officials. If it was all left quiet nobody would be any the wiser.

But we all know the bloke down the pub is always right, The only higher source of facts is "My brother in law who used to work for a ______ dealership......." and "The man from the AA said....." I went on a "vehicle dynamic control" course earlier this year (just one of many we need to stay ahead of developments in modern cars) and we always spend some time with a representative from one of the European associations (GEA or similar) who talks through and debates some of the technology that's going through development/testing and about to emerge onto the market. One of the things manufactures have READY to go is steer and brake by wire. No mechanical linkage for either!!! He was not too familiar with C&U regs for this country but knew there was some editing on the cards and he also thought that the replacement of the "SVA" with the "IVA" was largely to be sure that the "IVA" fell into line with the edited C&U regs when they appear. I've not read the "SVA" regs so I cant comment but the draft copies of the "IVA" didn't have any requirement for a mechanical linkage. Planes usually seem to stay in the sky and they dont have mechanical links for anything

Cheers Tom. Had chance to measure yours yet Puggers???

http://www.devon4x4.com/forum/2009-off-roa...5th-march-2009/