Steve 90

Sorted, 7 degrees trim! sounds and runs even nicer but still has the issues mentioned above. Will have a fiddle with the bits people have suggested and let you know how it goes.

So if I adjust the trigger wheel or the timming offset untill I get 10 deg on the timming light at cranking im spot on? Yep, Which is why I want to get it sorted now before altering any settings.

Right, So you pull the Fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. The figure on the timming light at TDC should be the same as the trim angle in the bottom line plus the advance angle at cranking speed which would be the figure in the 9th line down????. straight forward enough, Just checking im looking at the right figure on the MS screen really! Steve.

LOL, Dont worry, I made my own, Yours is still there My coil packs are on the Bulkhead. The engine is tucked right back into the bulkhead so the leads didn't need to be any longer to mount them there and that way they are way up away from water and out of the way of getting splashed by the fans etc.

I did have a look yesterday see if there was any way of altering accel enrichment but didn't find that. Any chance of a brief "what's, what" I would imagine it looks for certain conditions from both the MAP and the TPS before going into acc enrichment mode so that would be the MAP and TPS threshold??? What do the upper columns do? They have some sort of time base against Volts and Kpa, Do they look for a speed of increase before allowing enrichment?? What does the MAP v's TPS slider do?? Sorry for all the Questions, Once I have a rough idea how the system works I hope I'll be able to work stuff out. Manythanks. Steve.

Ah, So I was thinking the hunting was due to the O2 sensor being too slow and playing catchup all the time. But ou say its most likely that its too fast or allowed to make too big an adjustment too quickly and over correcting. I gets ya. Will have a fiddle and see what happens.

You can see here the feed for the heater from the manifold although I have blocked it off with the gauge sender (two bird with one stone n all that!) and the pipe running along the rocker cover is the other heater hose which just goes back to the bottom hose. Very different to the pre serp' motors. And here's a blanker fitted to the manifold where the heater hose would come out if it was a pre serp' engine. If I do run a hose back to the bottom hose I'll make use of this as the routing will be much better than the other. Hope its a bit clearer!

The heater and throttle body pipes are both taken from points in the manifold that are lower than the Thermostat so as long as there is a bleed valve in the stat I cant see air locks being an issue.

It runs!!!! And much better than I thought it would. I started the engine for the first time last night and it ran massively rich. Found the cause this morning (least said about that the better ) and it now runs reasonably. Today was my first experience of MS and trying to make head or tail of Megatune etc etc. The truck starts well and idles pretty well although the O2 sensor seems to stick either rich or lean when at idle but oddly could be either. If you try and attempt to snap the throttle open the engine bogs before revving out as if its running lean/ there's too little acceleration enrichment (Needs oil in the dash pot ) but if opened slightly slower it revs out cleanly. Also when on the overrun it sometimes crackles through the exhaust a very small amount also like its running lean. The other thing I notice at the moment is if you hold the throttle at a constant cruise the engine surges. The O2 sensor seems to switch slowly (too slowly I would have thought but could be very wrong) and as it switches the surging RPM follows almost identically. I fiddled a little to try and get the hang of recording data etc. Then decided I'd try and check ign timing to be sure it was right at which point yet another ZF74 PAS pump gave up the ghost :angry2: . So until I can get a shorter belt in the morning to run just the Water pump I had to call it a day. The only info I got before disaster struck was this. I'm not sure how accurate it is due to not having checked the ign timing yet or even how useful the selected fields are (They were the defaults set on Mega tune when I opened it) but does anyone have any pointers from what they can see. Its all very new to me so go easy :unsure: Just to add, Its a brand new O2 sensor and a good quality one (NGK/NTK) but im having my suspicions about it. There was a slight leek from one exhaust joint but I've sealed that up.

Lack of flow through the steering box is not just a suzuki thing. The LR box also suffers the same. With a decent size ram it does slow the steering. My ZF pump produces plenty of flow but the box will not pass it fast enough so theres definatly an issue that needs some work here. The ability to have weighted steering for feel but the assist as requred would be perfect. Sounds like your on to something here Simon. The pump response shouldn't be an issue, They run electric pumps on many modern cars. The valving and pressure switch side of things would just be basic hydraulics and I assume some trial and error to get the pressure settings right. I Have been looking into the whole steering thing a lot recently. There are fantastic systems available but all cost ££££££££'s and need a specialist box which Im not keen on, I always tryy to keep things so a std part can be fitted if need be to finnish an event. This sounds very very promising Simon. I'm very interested.

If its a 1998 300 series then it would be the wider ones.

Is that the one that usually goes to the bottom of the throttle body?

That would be far too sensible I did intend taking some pic's but the emotion of getting it running became a little overwhelming (I just had to go for a pint to celebrate) and I forgot. Will get some up tomorrow so you can see what im waffling on about!

Mmm, probably going to take quite a bit of trial and error to get the right size hole and have it run at a decent temp all year round!

Yep, Mines another variation. As std the one heater hose comes from the manifold then the other runs back alnog the rocker cover then down a steel pipe that twists its way down to the bottom hose. The bottom hose is long gone as mine are all custom for a different rad setup. So in theory I should just be able to run it back into the new bottom hose?? Which I think is probably the answer unless I decide to run without a stat.

I dont have any of that pipework on either engine, Just the pipe sticking out of the front of the manifold just below the thermostat housing in the V. I can simply connect this back into the bottom hose but thought if I could blank it off the less hoses the better. I like keeping things simple and minimalist on the truck if possible.

Plumbed the coolant hoses in on the V8 today (and got it running, woo hoo :D !!) Im not running a heater of any sort so will not be using the heater hoses. I assume that when the thermostat is closed, without the heater hoses there is no way for the water in the block to circulate. Am I right?? or is there some form of built in/internal bypass for this situation (as there was on some of the older cars that had a tap in the heater hose). Ive had a good look round and cant see any way that there would be a bypass so the way I see it is I have a few options, Either loop the heater hose from the manifold back into the bottom hose?? (would rather not if possible as its more clutter and more hoses to potentially cause problems) Run with no thermostat, replace it with a restriction plate?? (an option but would warm up be a bit slow?) or maybe just drill a few bleed holes in the thermostat??? If I was to go down the route of bleed holes in a thermostat, What size would I need to get enough circulation and avoid hot spots. Anybody have any idea's or experience or even just clarify some of my suspicions? Cheers. Steve.

Very nice, Nice shape, looking good. Not sure about the choice on the front right tho!

Come on Nick, No time for sitting around chatting! Looking good.

It would just lift air from whichever side doesn't have fuel!

Gigglpin 4x4 would be your best bet, They stock quite a bit of Gwyns stuff.

We teamed up with Andy Chaplin (Posted higher in this topic) a few years ago on the MT's. He was running Propane. I have no ideas of the ins and outs or the drivability of it. One thing is for sure, When it was turned on the increase in performance was quite obviously impressive and well worth it. A lot of bang for ya buck if you ask me. Simple, reasonably cheap and more effective than pretty much any other mod on a diesel. Plus you only need to turn it on when your in situations where you think you'll need that extra performance so if your cruising along on tittling about the engine can run as std with no extra stress. I still cant understand why more people dont use it, If I was still running a diesel I'd have it fitted.

Stop eating and sleeping yes but no tea?????? A man can not build a truck without Tea!!!!

You Too! Looking Good Nick. Shame It wasn't a V6 Vitara, That would have been nice. All alloy motor with a fair bit more power than the 1600 but not much more weight. Like the front winch mount, Very similar to the stuff Northern Chris was building.

Yep, Scared! :ph34r: Trucks still in a million bits, Recon I'll be ready sometime next month