Steve 90

Aye, Thats the kiddy, Thankyou both, Thats brilliant.

Thanks fella!

:hysterical: :hysterical: Yea yea, Is that GMT or Adrian Turner Time???? If he says 3ish Expect him about 10.30 - 12.00pm

I used to have regular trouble with the seals going until Ciderman recommended a slightly different O ring cant remember what they were tho) and the now seem (touch wood) OK. Also had quite a bit of trouble with the copper pipe breaking off the air feed Banjo but I fitted new ones and left a much larger loop of spare pipe inside the diff housing and they seem much better now too! Symptoms are as you say, Air escaping from the axle breather and also when the seals went as opposed to the pipe I used to get a fine mist of gear oil from the ARB solenoid hen they were disengaged.

Yes.

Was that the Night we had a BBQ in the woods before driving it. Then I was first down the steps in the Green Range rover in sheet ice after everyone said we couldn't go as it was too snowy/iccy. Was a good nights lanning!

Been having an hour going back over some of the stuff ive done and sewing up loose ends. I need to fit the lower semi circle plate to the bell housing but theres a groove along the top of it that makes me think there should be a seal or simmilar in there. I want to keep water out if possible so if there was, that would be great. So does anyone have a diagram of the plate area, Its a 1994 4.2 V8 with auto box. THe plate is just a semi circular blanking plate with part number FRC2859 stamped on it that covers the bottom 1/3rd of the bell housing and mates up against the bottom of the engine block. The seal id be interested in, If there is one, would be between this plate and the bottom of the engine block. CAn anyone help? Cheers. Steve.

You need to fab a bracket like the ones Gwyn Lewis makes, Depending on length of your shocks Gwyn's might even do the job! http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page24.html

You need to connect it to the air intake, atmosphere side of the turbo. Somewhere between the air filter and the intake of the turbo will be spot on.

If its manual transmission just put it in 3rd or 4th gear and get someone to hold there foot on the brake, They will then usually come undone. I have had some that are so tight that the clutch slips before the bolt comes undone. In these situations and with most automatics (If there's not room to get the air wrench in) I very often use the flicking the starter method. As long as you have a well fitting socket on the bolt correctly and keep the bar against the chassis there is no problem with this method. Never had a problem doing it and If the bolt does brake it was going to anyway! As les says, Might be an idea to remove the Fuel solenoid lead incase reactions arn't as good as they could be tho I don't usually bother. It usually is just a very quick flick of the key. Sometimes helps if you have an assistant to steady the socket.

I bent some 45mm CDS approx 40 deg' with a push bender, Then threw it away and ordered two lengths of tube bent as I needed from North. My effort wasn't good by any standard. Im sure North, P&P or any of the cage makers will do whatever needed if you speak to them. Mine only cost a few quid. If its a one off job, Much cheaper than buying a new former, never mind a bender.

I don't think so Will, I know of quite a few people (infact more than I know with special builds) running heavily modified trucks but largely std parts as far as engine, drive train, suspension etc are concerned and also want to keep it that way but are in need of stronger axles. Totally agree with making sure they wont foul if you loose a stop. Any extending I do will me chassis side of the stop. Will look into other options but I have a feeling the problem will be between the prop and the bracket on the A frame cross member. Its all speculation at the moment tho so we will see what happens and deal with it when the time comes.

Mmmm, I may have some extra issues as the A frame is 7" longer on mine with the gear box moved back a long way (still using a 200Tdi 90 rear prop on a 100") so it could be tight. Where is it close Dave? Is it between the prop and the bracket for the A frame or the actual A frame? I may also have issues at the front as my Engine is such a long way back. To be honest tho I'd happily put an extra inch on the bump stops for piece of mind in the axle department, A very small price to pay IMHO. Excellent stuff Dave, Thanks. Keep the updates coming.

At a guess I would say Pete is referring to Steff breaking the pinion on hss Spidertrax with 44"s.

Cheers Dave.

Cheers Guys. So this does an OK job??? If so I'll get one on the way Monday. Assuming its rigid enough, the quality of cutter and having a slowish drill are the keys to it being a success. Steve.

Funnily enough we use J&L quite a bit and im using their latest special offer sheet as a mouse matt :rolleyes: Didn't even think about them, Doh!!!!. Will have a look now!!

A couple of others. Looks slightly better, probably not tho?? And. Looks quite promising but what clown came up with the price? Cheers. Steve.

Ive been looking around for something quick and easy. I can use the milling machine but its a bit of a pain walking from the truck to the mill 200 times a day when doing fab work, Specially when you have to climb in amongst the tube work every time to try something. Also when using the mill its a PITA to alter the angles if its not a 90 deg joint. The finished product however is brilliant. So I was looking for something I could mount on a bench or vice much closer to the truck and much quicker to setup. Unfortunately, I don't think im going to find anything, All the ones I see look far to flimsy and I very much doubt that they will work that great. Found a few similar to this but not overly impressed with the look of it. Cheap Ebay tube notcher?? Anybody got any opinions????? Or recommendations of something that works well??? Cheers. Steve.

Ooo, That should make people try a bit harder, (and break their car in Turners case!! :lol: ) I sent my entry of in the week

Excellent! Looking good Dave. Where's mine?????? Im ready to fit them!!! :D How are the Knuckles coming along? And have you got any figures for the extra width/track of the axles yet? Steve.

Thanks Nige. I think Ive just realised what I have. They are definitely identical manifolds to the 4.2 which has twin down pipes. Think they are the 3.9 CAT front pipes which have been cut off just in front of the CAT's. Ive already got the twin down pipes fab'd and tacked together so I will stick with that. It was more a curiosity thing really.

Hi Tony, Yep, Totally agree but ive been bothering Nige with Questions quite a lot recently so I thought I'd put it on the forum to see what people had to say about it, Would appear not a lot! I assume you mean the change from 4.2 to 3.9 rather than Diesel to V8. The 4.2 has a multi pulley/belt setup on the front and I need to fit a higher output PAS pump. I got the pump in place but the bracing for the alternator was not in the right plane and without building some elaborate setup that weighs more than the engine itself I couldn't see any way of mounting the 12v alt, PAS pump and 24v alt that I was happy with. So, as im up against it with time I thought I'd get the truck up and running with the serp 3.9 which takes the same type PAS pump so that's a direct swap and 24v alt mounting is simple. once the truck is up and running and I have more time I'll give the 4.2 some love and attention for a few more BHP and address the ancillary mounting issues.

230kg according to this. http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm

If its a 4.2 they only did them with 3 seperate belts. Its a finny setup with 2 single V belts and one 4 rib multi v for the alt'. I'll get a pic tomorrow.