PaulN

Aaah! - Thanks!

Could someone please explain each anachronisms please?

Thanks for the re-assurance bud....appreciated.

The bracket going over the top of the battery is flat (un-bent) and the only parts that touch the battery when clamped are the two clamping points (nuts) and the middle vertical tongue which presses down on the battery as you tighten.

Yeah thanks Max - good point.... ....but here's what I've done - what I thought was best at the time - can always re-do. (Would someone confirm?) I have left all the vacuum pipes connected as they were (ie) to a still electrically connected EGR solenoid - Just safely blocked up the one that used to go to the EGR valve. Everything therefore is as it was except there is now nothing to suck! The 'Brain' is still happy too I would guess - wish mine was.... Any grownups?

I have searched and read most of the topics relating to this but I am still not sure what to do with all the vacuum pipes and EGR solenoid. Can anyone with patients please spell it out (Bit thicko this end). I have.... 1. Removed EGR and blanked 2. Replaced hose (Inter-cooler to Inlet Manifold) 3. Inlet manifold and Inter-cooler clean out - yet to do (when it's warmer!) There is a vacuum pipe from air filter box to EGR solenoid There is a vacuum pipe from brake servo to EGR solenoid There is a vacuum pipe from EGR vavle assembly (now gone) to EGR solenoid Questions: A. Should all of these vacuum pipes be removed and all devices be blanked (makes sense)? B. Should the EGR solenoid be left plugged in? C. What to do with EGR valve plug? D. Anything else to be done? (I'm sure I'm missing something) Thanks in anticipation chaps (Takes a long time to go in but once it's there it's there!)

Hi Boro, Sorry it's taken so long but here you are (drivers/near side). This is my 1996 300tdi (standard fitment) and pretty solid too! I've seen the clamps here (click) will just need the rods. ATB, PN

Yes - thanks all for input. I'm inclined at some point to change the TF Box to the more relaxing 1.222 as that the sort of driving I like. Think i'll soft top truck too! I do tow fully laiden Ifor Wil. trailer but hoping the V8 will compensate a bit for the wrong gearing at pull aways and then for the muddy bit use LO ratio. Are these 2 the only TF Box options? Thanks for the Ashcroft pointer. I'll give him a call and discuss - there may be another alternative!! Will get some idea of cost too - maybe swopsy....

I see - that is my experience pulling a loaded 3.5 Ton trailer with my Disc - you really need to be in low ratio when pulling away when it's just slightly uphill but then it's a relaxed cruise on the motorway! That must mean the Defender will pull the trailer like it's not there but scream on the fast roads? How difficult is an overdrive to fit with an auto or is the auto an irrelevance?

Really chuffed as just bought a 1988 Defender complete with RR running gear and it’s 3.5 V8 4 speed auto with rebuilt engine and gearbox and she drives really well - except..... I’ve not got underneath yet but I understand that it has a 410 Transfer box and that is probably the reason that I feel the power unit seems not to be as casual a power delivery as a Disco V8 that have tried. The truck seems to require another gear or overdrive when your on the main roads doing 50 - 60. Is the 410 (1.410) Transfer box designed for heavy and off road and forestry stuff on hills and so too low geared for cruising? What might be a good replacement would it be a 1.222? which I’ve seen on the label on the side of a box within the Tech Forum about changing one! Don’t know what the numbers mean - I just know I’m going to have to change to T/box but what to? Anyone advise please?

Job done and headlamps permanently on now! Put double connectors to the earth at the new lamp connectors and ran a common earth back to the battery as per 'Nicedayforit'. Talk about bright....What with hard and fast earth and these 90% brighter xenon thingys (half price on line using 'Karlo's' link above) - 1st time out last night and rekon I could see a mile - thanks chaps.

Thank you Marcus - At last I understand why when I'm stuck in a soft rut on one side (down to the axles) I can't get out due to wheel spin on the side that's not stuck! ....and I thought it was a faulty t/box diff lock. Would you mind explaining how you can achieve full 4wd on a Disco? Can you get all axle lockers?

Really interesting read and pics - keep 'em coming!

An excellent idea - I'll do just that! Awaiting parts - job for the w/e.

I have mine off for a couple of weeks now and apart from some hotter smells coming into the cab I'm pretty sure it runs and picks up speed much better - much more lively and tourqy. I have had a tank of V Power diesel on trial too but pretty sure it's the lack of drag on engine thats giving the better response - on going - but it's in the boot alongside the spanner!! Can't really say that it warms up any quicker tho as she's always warm after about 3 miles. One question of concern is that if you were to go for an upgraded inter-cooler (too expensive for me) that provides greater power and torque through improved cooling - won't this be negated if the fan is not there? The inter-cooling rad is not that big and so does it not need the fanned assistance?

Quite right. I put the meter on the charred wire and 'tis the earth. New connectors and bulbs (via your link) now ordered. When you work out your relay circuit and layout I and I'm sure a few others would be interested - seems from other contributor that it's a common thing and MOT point of failure. Will report back - thxs again! Can't use the Smileys cos I'm on a Mac but I would have used a Smiley Smiley!!

Thanks karlo I will definitely get some of those bulbs then - especially as it appears they have a "bogof" on just now! Here's a couple of pics just taken for interest - still can't work it out but I'll replace all and see how it goes. Really appreciate help & advice.

Thanks to everyone for pointers and to karlo for link. I'll check the earthing and corrosion issues later today but from memory there's no corrosion but on one blade of each of the bulbs is scorched and the connector part that relates to that blade is melted away and that implies too much load (heat) or a short? Maybe the connectors are tired but either way as per your suggestions I'll be looking for an obvious cause and change the connectors and bulbs for new and w/proof where sensible. These any good from fleabay? H4 Are they heavy duty enough? I'm also wondering if I was to rob the wife's purse and get some of those "even brighter" bulbs (30% brighter, 50% brighter or 80% brighter ) whether that will cause the same problem because the original bulbs were so much cooler???

Sorry about the delay in getting back - had to pick the missus up from work! Managed to wedge the burnt crumbling connectors to get some lumens for that sortie - now all I have to do is unfreeze my hands. Thanks for the ideas so far. I too am thinking that the more recent lamps are a lot brighter and therefor hotter and in addition the old girl (truck) is nearly 13 and the insulation has just given up. The only thing that I've change recently is to remove the viscous fan and I have to say that it was from that day I remember smelling a hot (and now I come to think about it burning) smell. Just put it down to oily engine running hotter at the time. Surely there can't be a connection between less cooling through the engine bay and the melting of connectors? - naw!

Would anyone have any ideas why after so many thousands of miles and no electrical issues, one of my headlamps decided to go dim and then main beam bulb - he no shine? Moved the connector around a bit and hey presto - back on again. So I'll have to look for signs of corrosion but at least it's working 'till I can get to it. Now it's not again and neither now is the other nearside headlamp?? Upon inspection (removed headlamp) both 3 pin plastic connectors have one piece melted away and crumbling. Any ideas why this could be or might it be just age related?

If I wanted to replace the slightly sagging rear springs on my truck and decided to go for standard height but heavy duty ones I thought that I would get a rear that was slightly higher than the nose - now that I would be happy with! Given this info from above: disco tdi rear springs are 155-220lbs/inch progressives and 15" long a simple upgrade for stiffness/heavy duty would be to use front:- D90 / disco HD fronts at 175lbs/inch and 15" long Rear:- D90 HD rears at 210-240lbs/inch progressives and 14.5" long I am confused as it looks like the HD ones are shorter than the standards?? Could anyone confirm best move then please?

Are you turning it the right way? Maybe a silly question but it's well meant - wood for the trees and all that - after 4 hrs!!

Feedback: Took your advice and have tried a tank of the V-Power - quite a remarkable difference to pulling power and performance. It was 6p dearer than the ordinary diesel but as there are no nearby stations to us selling the stuff we can only get it when on a run. When we get there the fuel is generally 5-6p cheaper than around here anyway so that made it nearly evens!! (Checking mpg comparisson too) I shall now put it in every time I can get to - so thanks - info much appreciated.

Does that mean to say that all 3 of your Discos are Viscous-less? How do they all do during the summer (?!), towing, long journeys and traffic jams? I'm poised to remove mine but only during winter and then nervously!!

Just fitted some standard length Munro gas shocks all round. Came with all the bits form a local Factor. They're not so expensive as some and now give a much more stable ride with better cornering. I'm Pleased!