PaulN

From cold start in the morning mine starts up - no smoke - 10 seconds later it billows clouds and clouds for half a mile then clears completely. If one decelerates and then accelerates there is momentarily less apparent smoke and then a lot lot more if doing this during that first half mile. As far as a hesitation is concerned - yes if you count no smoke for 10 seconds and also if you go on the overrun for a bit down hill but frankly it billows smoke until exhaust gets hot. HTH I shall be looking at valve seals 1st and see if that cures it. It's not really urgent, as your LR Man has inferred, just annoying/embarrasing - if not fixed then it's on to Turbo refurb and/or injector recal or renewal whichever seems most appropriate but only to do one thing at a time to know what works!

Neill - only difference in symptoms is that mine is mostly white smoke (maybe a tinge of blue in there somewhere but not much) and that is making me think unburnt fuel. I could kick myself as I had the rocker cover off 2 weeks ago and now that I have read your 'other thread'(Nov 5th) I know what to look for but I could have had a look then. Great link to AR Turbos Disco_al - very educational - My money is on the 'T' seals too! and thanks to Fozug too - just have to fab up a tool and then find a diesel 'specialist' somewhere in Mid Wales!! So my to do list: 1. Check valve stem guides 2. Find Diesel specialist and 'whip out' the injectors for testing and / or replacementt 3. Contact AR Turbos for Refurb cost Thanks guys!

Good of you to reply Nigel and thanks for describing. We live on a hill too and that's when the smoke is most noticeable - as you say. Looks like like Neill.Bird and I have some reading up and valve action to attend to!! I'm told it's easy!!!?

It smoked a bit on intial start then cleared - I can see why now. Nigel Appologies for jumping in on the back end of your thread but could you advise - what colour smoke and over what duration did it appear. (I have a Smokey 300 tdi thread over the page (linky thingy)going where a forum member's suggestion what leaking valve guides and so I searched and jumped here to yours! ) Paul.

Ooops! Felt good while it lasted! (29) Mmmm - Leaking valves and / or injectors - Seeping overnight. One drips oil other drips diesel - getting burnt off as she warms up - fits doesn't it. Early smoke and limited duration, better after long sustained run. Mostly white smoke would suggest more like unburnt fuel I suppose. Can't see how an injector works to make it leak. Is there some form of shut off valve in them when they're not supposed to deliver? Have used 'Forte' in the past - didn't resolve. Will need to read up how to tackle each of these jobs. Never done before. Wonder if there's an easy way of sampling what's in the pot before firing up? Thin pipette down a glow plug hole? Appreciate the replies guys -anyone favour of turbo seals - though may be oil seepage is on wrong track........

My Disco (‘96 300tdi 80k) is still smoking and it’s starting to bug! There’s no smoke on normal running and no ill effect on performance or economy (all relative) so I’ve pretty well ignored it up to now but boy does she smoke in the morning!! Checked a few things out to try and narrow it down a bit...... Only smokes from cold and then after a nights standing to get cold - but not, it appears, after a 200 mile run! First thing it’s like the SAS are on manoeuvres for the 1st 100 metres or so and then it’s gone - no smoke at all until next day. No smoke on revving or overrun when warm. No loss of performance or economy (39 mpg) No loss of oil Removed EGR valve long time ago Recently cleaned Cyclone breather, inlet manifold, intercooler and pipes (intercooler was clean) though there was dripping oil from cyclone to turbo inlet pipe when disconnected and left hanging, before it was cleaned. Checked again now and it’s just got a film from oil from vapour - which is probably normal. No wear on turbo vanes or spindle that I can feel. No oil in turbo that I could feel(at least on what I call the cold inlet side) Have not yet got compression tests yet as no uneven running or drop in perf or econ or smoke while driving. So what can the blasted cause be? Worn valve guides? - but there’s no smoke when warm - not when revved or on overrun. Worn rings? - but no crankcase puffing out through oil filler and no smoke except first 100 metres. Good even idle and excelaration - no smoke. Head gasket gone? - but no oil in water, no loss of coolant no problems running or power loss or puffing at oil filler. Worn turbo seals? - possibly! Might there be a dribble over night which is whistled through and being burnt as she gets warm? Can’t be on the cold inlet side because there is no accumulation inside interooler pipes now that she’s been cleaned. Is it possible to leak into exhaust side, pool and then be vaporised over 1st 100m or so with the dribble not big enough to notice when normal running? Can oil seep into bores overnight? - may be but there’s no smoke at start up - only after 15 seconds or so. SO it appears to be something to do with oil in something that gets hot after 20 seconds but only lasts for 100 metres but lots of it (Appears white behind in mirror and persists unlike water vapour) Is there some form of (mechanical) enrichment at start up that may have gone wrong? She even passes MOT smoke test provided it’s thrashed beforehand! Starts well and runs well but I would like to lose the SAS! AAaarrgghh! Place your bets please.......

So has anyone tried it - at all - in any of the boxes, diffs or engine?

All Wheel Trim - gets my vote too. Did an great job for my Def!

I've always put Goodrich All Terrain (LT235 70 R16) on mine - Much improved road holding, good longevity (50,000 plus - just changed 2 and that was only because they'd staarted to perish in between the treads. Reckon there was easily 10k more - just that they were getting old - we're low milers!) and okay for a bit of laning. New price around £100 per corner though you can get them cheaper but where in London I wouldn't know - someone else will pop up and say I'm sure.

I was gonna say you could sacrifice the pulley by drilling through 1 two ho;les opposite one another and then use a bar but then read Moose's advice and would definitely go with that to get going.

Ah ha! Thanks Dave...

Go closed loop if you can afford to. Mine made the drive much more pleasurable on LPG. Closed loop?? Wasaht?

Thanks Guys! really helpfull.....

Have read with interest 'Retroanacondas' thread about the above for an MOT and I am in the middle of doing mine. I wished I had found his thread before now to confirm (and save the head scratching) that the sill does have to come off to remove the old one. I also notice that the new one is not the same moulded shape as the old one so I hope it will fit in there ok! My question is should you paint all that lovely new shiny alluminium before the new one from 'YRM' is fitted or can it be fitted and left? (provided it is kept out of contact with steel). I noticed that 'Western' recommended some underseal at the end (presumably for the underside) - can that be splashed onto the bare alli? without pre-etch treatment?

Well done you! Nice to know it's worth doing. I've bin meaning to do mine for the last three months - got the insulation ready to cut but that's as far as it's got! Did you use some high tack spray adhesive or some form of mechanical fixings?

Hey - really cool Phil - No - fantastic! I was keying out that we needed some pics before we can drool and up one popped. Brill.....

6.7 litres!

Did for me LINK

Wish mine was an auto : Welcome to the Forum ....and I'd like to see some piccies too before and after you've spent a shed load of reddies!!

Look here link

Superb truck!

Notoriously common notchy 2nd gear on the r380. Change oil to MTF 94. I've sorted mine by using this on my Disco but some on this Forum use 'Difflock's' varient, though expensive, to good effect. No doubt a more experienced member will confirm this but I had the exact same problem and the MTF 94 sorted it.

In short - yes. I have yet to do just that with my Def90. which stll has its 4.10 and will swap for a 1.222 Disco at some point. Have a little look at these for starters: Suggest1 Suggest2 - Look Discovery1 This is a really good read

Very nice truck and Welcome!

We looked at a few for our 90 and in then got a black mohair hood made and fitted by one of those you already mentioned - All Wheel Trim Ltd. We ours fitted around a P&P internal external cage (and their bulkhead removal) and the tilt is very well made and fitted. We have had sports car tops made in the past and AWT's mohair quality is every bit as good. Ask for Kim Johnson - they're a good bunch there. Seen other makes produced and fitted and I reckon that if you go to All Wheel you won't get a better one. HTH.