steve b

Agree entirely on the variable quality with replacement springs and dampers . Now you have mentioned the police spec I do remember you mentioning that before. Having built a few RRC's from the chassis up it is surprising just how much mass goes on at the final finish build stage . Steve

They've been putting the time in , that has moved on a whole lot. Is it on the original springs? It looks quite high, although it is still in build so more to add yet. Do you have a first road trip in mind yet? Steve

I know someone with a LWB Santana over in southern Spain , that has a 2.5N/A Rover diesel. The rear brakes are 11" Rover SLS drums , not sure what the fronts are. Leaf sprung with a Rover rear diff and anti-roll bar. Transmission is LT230/LT77. Not sure about the steering box arrangement either. The owner has said there seems to be little knowledge or parts listings locally for him which seems odd as Santana started a long while ago. My thoughts are more local research on parts and mechanical details along with body types (and material - GRP or ally) before jumping in. It may turn out that an Iveco 4x4 van/truck might be a better choice? Welcome to the forum too - lots of camper builds on here to whet your appetite.... Steve

Shared knowledge does it again Nice one Ian Steve

Good to hear it's done the job. By all means hang around and carry on posting pic's Steve

Good to see you here again. The main thing with any engine change or upgrading the current engine is cost against the financial gain in fuel consumption. I sort of still fall on optimising what you have for best economy including tyres that are narrow and entirely road based to reduce drag. In line with that I would say a low boost supercharger might suit your goal for this. @Nonimouse has experience of forced air induction on 4 cyl. petrol engines I think Steve

Probably, but my Tdci experience is limited , not sure there is any other mix point? maybe someone else can chime in ? Good call on draining the oil to check it Steve

The oil around the rocker cover joint is the seal - they do benefit from a small bead of gasket seal in the groove of the cover before fitting the seal , That turbo oil feed leak is it , very hot there so the oil burning off will stink. The washer should be copper or aluminium top and bottom of the banjo. Blanking all the holes from cab to under bonnet or outside is top of the list too , even if it's just duck tape to start with. I like the double cab with just 2 doors , looks very useful and great pic's , thanks. Steve

that's why I said disconnect the turbo to inlet hence removing either excessive breather delivered oil or failed turbo seals, there's not much else to provide engine oil into the inlet, you may be right that it just picked up resting oil from the intercooler built up over time but that too will be isolated. I always have something solid to block the inlet manifold should it take off when doing this test , just in case..... Steve

If there is oil in the sump and it turns over ok then trying a re-start with the inlet disconnected from the turbo to isolate the turbo oil leak (and boost) if it has failed should give a decent indication of the rest of the engine state. Was the ignition already off when it stopped "on it's own"? If so that is positive suggesting only a small amount of oil to self fuel , bloody scary when it does happen speaking from experience... Steve

Is everything else normal ? Smoke when driving? fluid leaks anywhere? Normal boost? The seam weld on the exhaust downpipe does rust through with age causing pinprick holes right under the cabin area. Diesel leaking should be obvious , but check around the inj. pump and the wading drain bung hole at the bottom of the timing belt housing. I doubt winter diesel additive would cause any issues Some pic's of your truck in the vast space and skies of Montana would be great Steve

Turners list this as ERC8450 for late 5mb 2.25 and 2.5 diesel. The earlier 3mb 2.25 is 568335 Beru are a good brand. Steve

A few drops left will be fine I'd say , top tip if the head ever comes off again is to remove the block drain then there will be no coolant above the block face. A check of the oil colour after a minute running will confirm oil condition. Steve

Even more interesting then , there were a lot of Land Rovers sold to nearby countries for civil utilities/services and military use - it was covered in "The Last Overland" on TV recently but I can't recall which country it was.... Steve

That's interesting, I thought Falcon's was probably a one off but that looks the same and would appear to be in Oz? Steve

It'll be fine, you were on the ball with the first start up safety. Another step being done eh Steve

Haha , they have the strangest price list system(?) ever - I spotted the rubber 4mm bore turbo to actuator pipe for a 300 listed as £113 +VAT genuine....it's about 80mm long and was fixed with standard rubber pipe Don't write them off completely , things like coil springs and dampers are priced more realistically Steve

Was there much of a price difference between those and genuine? Steve

Welcome to the forum. I don't have any info on your question but @Arjan might have some insight. @Eightpot may also have advice with Africa to Europe imports. Steve

That's possible and easy to get to That could explain the hazards too? Steve

The quality of bulb fit with replacement light units is variable to say the least , glad you found it Steve

The other common point is the earth connection to the inner wing ? If the wiring loom is not clipped up (or broken clips) it can chafe too Steve

Oil pumps move more than one would expect , again from hard bitten experience , thankfully mostly in my (very) younger years but it's hard to forget an oil lake under the 4 poster.... Steve

Painting the block a bright colour is a good thing - as your pic's show - any oil shows up really well. Still a simple fix Ian and looks a cracking build. That oil leak is the supply to the top end so the fact the top was not dry shows your oil pump is tip-top too Steve

That would do it and so much simpler than an upside down HG Steve