steve b

Welcome to the forum. That is very bad fuel use , even for a 2.5 petrol There may be room to improve the set up as it is. Making sure spark plugs and ignition timing are correct and fitting an electronic contact breaker replacement is worth it. Check valve clearances and set the Carb to best emissions . It should be 12-14 l/100km roughly. What sort of mix of surfaces/terrain are you on? Steve

Easy to delete - relay behind dash panel , once removed bridge the two blue/red connections in the socket block. Steve

The FPB shows 531043 dowel stud x4 and 531494 stud x4 (axle set) so 2 of each per side. The larger diameter plain section is the dowel and should be diagonally opposite - the arm should be machined on those two holes for a close fit. The top pin (Railko) plate is held with 4x 237357. Difference in thread size is the change from early BSF to later UNF or possibly Metric - have you checked what thread the NOS parts are? Steve

The swing out stabilisers might prove to be a pain for building related hoe work and the rear hoe itself looks short for the size? The Case with 4 in 1 front and extending rear hoe arm is pretty good all round , 4x4 too. I look after a Hydrema forestry forwarder converted from a 10t dump truck , they seem a tough platform and also appear as mine clearing machines. Steve

As above, earth points are the primary suspect. The bulkhead earth point - either on the sloping face near the clutch pedal box or near the fuel filter on the BH just under the bonnet gutter. I usually add an earth from the BH earth point to the back of the engine to give the best earth return. The T/box earth is often missed when re-fitting the boxes after say a clutch change. Steve

Can you do this test? It will give you the Facts as to just what is going on and will show if the M/C is the culprit or rear cylinders. Steve ...

Free play in the wheel bearings would have been checked at the test. Steve

If the flexi's are rubber and you have the correct pipe clamps it's a worthwhile check - when all 3 are clamped there should be no travel, just the free-play at the top. Rear shoe adjustment check would be my first thing after the above. Steve

You would be wise to research oil pump upgrades for this engine (Turner Engineering for example) and also look into the front axle recall N706 mentioned here on another thread.... Steve

I have the Stihl AK battery chainsaw and it works very well with good battery life. I now also have the strimmer, pole saw + extension, hedge cutter and pole hedge cutter with the extension . All very well balanced and plenty of power. I've not used any of the old 2 stroke gear since. Steve

It's very watchable, having started my LR life with a '55 86" and also had a Max ATV 6x6 (USA version of an Argo) it does poke my nostalgia. .......I also broke up and scrapped a Hilllman GT back in the early '80's (previous ep.) I would have loved to see Julian's version of the build. His work is done with great care and an empathy for both the Land Rover and the client. Steve

Thankfully not... Steve

Any thoughts on the recent Series 1 build? A rare one for sure, a 1953 86" ?? Apparently even with a mega cost build, when finished, the doors still need to slammed "because it's a Land Rover" The body colour painted door top and bottom galvanising over-painted silver was particularly classy. On the plus side it makes the Car SOS 88 Series 2a Britpart sponsored build look better... Steve

There's always the Ibox as a back up Steve

Not in the service sense of shells, but ring grooves get worn oversize on width and diameter of the piston skirt can get worn , not to mention combustion damage/wear to the diameter at the crown. This is why I still say the only way to make a truly informed Factual decision is to strip it and measure everything. Of course , as Mike has just said, household peace and harmony come at the top of the list so hopefully in the new year the strip down and fact finding mission can happen. Steve

The only way to know exactly what needs doing is to strip it and have everything measured to see what needs doing. A quick shop on Turners for rings, bearing shells (incl. cam) , all gaskets , seals, new cambelt/idler/tensioner but no cyl. head parts or pistons comes to just under £600 delivered. Add £300 for an engine shop to clean it all and measure everything. If it's all in tolerance you're off the slipway for under a grand? Just a weekend to build it then another to swap it in? Steve

+1 for this, I've not had any recurring leaks using it. Steve

looks like the (concrete) kiln maybe? Steve

I know someone in the same boat as you , he has a 1963 109 sw completely standard apart from an LDV 2.5na diesel and he has got himself a "cheap" to insure for a young new driver tiny hatchback to accrue some clean time on his policy. All rather frustrating for you as I think you all should be given a sensible chance to start out driving and prove yourselves instead of being treated as guilty of bad driving before you even move..... Driving monitors are worth insurance gold stars I use HIC for Land Rover insurance but I am somewhat aged... Steve

Sounds like the park switch has melted enough to cause earthing issues . available as a replacement part. Steve

That's a great tip with the talcum powder Steve

Usually the forward end of the inter shaft to case seal - an O ring that can harden and/or oval-ing of the casing hole. Engine oil leak looks like sump to block - no gasket , just sump sealer . Elring OEM sump sealer is what I use. Other culprits are fuel lift pump gasket, vac pump casing lid to body seal and the breather or cyclone to sump drain hose. Steve

that confirms it's an LT77 short bellhousing gearbox - the early 90/110/200 Tdi Defender standard fitment. Steve

The brass expansion tank suggests it was originally a 2.5 N/A or turbo or an early 200 Tdi. Hence the short bellhousing and engine back against the BH. Is reverse up and left? Steve

Monteverdi built a four door back in the days of two door RRC production, the rear wings look 2 door-esque in the pics of this. It's probably an SVE built variant given the era? Steve