On the wheels , I use a lever bar between the BJ securing bolt head and the axle mounting face to try and lift it up.
Can you mount a video camera underneath to view the rear axle nose from the side and and rock it forward in gear then back in reverse?
If the nose is going up/down then it will be the A frame joint or bushes or the trailing arm bushes
Steve
Not that different to the Tdi I'd suspect.
That is very light indeed , you need some soft ply tyres to suit now. Shame ATV/Mule tyres don't come in your size
Good result
Steve
Yes - any free dirt/rust will damage gears and bearings . As FF says mag drain plugs are very worthwhile to collect any free metallic flakes but starting with clean internal surfaces is a must.
If it's off the vehicle and stripped bare you could take it to a local HGV yard - most have steam cleaners
Steve
Removing the diff and everything including the stub axles will show it's true state. A good pressure/steam wash would sort it or a 5" stove flue brush and plenty of brake cleaner by hand, finished off with a rag ball on a string to wipe any residue out followed by lots of oil checks and changes as needed. Replace all seals and check the seal lands for scoring while you're in there.
Also clean the diff gear set then clean it again
Steve
I would agree with this. Unbolt the MC from the servo can and inspect the piston end and bore for fluid. No pipes need to be disconnected to do this and with a small G clamp the piston can be pushed in to see more bore.
Drum or disc on the back?
Steve
The H-L function and the Difflock(transfer box difflock) are separate even though on the same lever.
In low DL to high no DL the shift can be one movement (allowing for road speed and de-clutching) and vice versa, keep an eye on the DL light on the dash to confirm unlock or lock
Welcome to the forum , and Defender living
Steve
Thanks Ralph, I thought the MOD records would be more detailed. The main info on this 109 is it has been resting for 26 years so it will need some tlc even though it has been in the dry mostly by the initial look around.
Steve
It would appear you intuitively chose a good mix of donor material, reminds me of Burt Munro casting pistons for his Indian in that film.
It looks great Stephen
Steve
Modern stuff eh, just won't manage the unexpected use...
It looks great btw, I'm sure there will be other ally casting projects along the way now- 3D printers? ppfff
Steve
Drum or disc on the back?
Clamping the flexi's should give a solid pedal with correct free play at the top, then release one clamp and check pedal , re-clamp and release another and repeat
Steve