Jimmy Two-Jacks

Well this post opened a can of worms!!!! Well having taken on board everyone’s input and thoughts. I fitted my reverse lamps today I used some DOT/SAE marked sealed led units in symmetry above the rear door and A 1350Lm led work light to be switched independently of the reverse lights. Thanks for the section on the fogs, checked and mine are ok for spacing and placement. Thanks for the help. J

Thanks for the replies.... blimey thats confusing if the Schedule posted states one thing but maybe contradicted by an addendum or sub clause how do you know whats legal and whats not. So just to recap I should mount the reverse on the NS and it has to be inline with one (two fitted in symetry) of my fog lamps? What about vehicles often seen with reverse lamps above the door or on the OS is that illegal? I supose the former is central.

Thanks all.In that case I am going to fit a large LED 3 watt revese light on the drivers side or even one of those circular unimog 12/24volt led type reverse lights. The standard one as we all know was like a candle. Cheers Got the new number plates today, Nearly there now! J

Hi, Just thought I would ask if any laws state the side a reverse lamp can be fitted as I know the fitting of these lamps isnt mandatory for an mot but if fitted need to work. Cheers J

Well I tried all the things suggested but the old 90 still wouldn’t start so I swapped one of the wires round on the ignition barrel turned the key and she started first time without hesitation or a cough… perhaps that will teach me to check the obvious stuff first DOH....Anyway so happy now….. Thanks everyone for the help

Thanks Ralph. I best swap em round then

Hi, Have refitted my side lights and indicators today and then thought does it matter in what order they are i.e indicators above side lights or visa-versa on the front of the vehicle. Just wondered if their are any regulations relating to this in the mot?

Hi Chris and all, Tried bleeding the system from the pump through to the injector pipe unions and was quite alarmed that very little diesel came from the disconnected pipes when the engine was turned over I checked syphon tube that draws fuel from the tank and it was clear, I replaced the fuel filter and tried again, the filter filled with fuel so it was getting that far. I have decided to re-check the wiring as I think there could be a mix up with the wiring as suggested above by Les. It will be next weekend before I get chance to have a proper look though It could even be a mixture of an air lock and wiring fault as I foolishly turned the key without any fuel to see if I had the ignition wired correct about a week ago and just pumped air instead of fuel..doh Just a little concerned that If I have got the wiring all "a about f" and It does start how can I stop it? One of the confusing things is that the original engine replaced with the 200tdi before my ownership was a petrol unit and now the engine bay seems to have a fair few wires without any function relating to the 200tdi engine or coresponding to the wiring diagrams of either. I think the best tip anyone could have given me is use non fade magic markers when marking up the tape on the wires when you take the engine out. I will let you know how I get on. Cheers James

Thanks all I will investigate in the morning weather permiting. The earth strap amd battery earth to chassis leads and strap are new to cleaned bared metal faces throughout. I will see how it goes. Cheers J

After having rebuilt my 200tdi 90 finally done the electrics all ok, engine turns over fine but doesn’t seem to want to start. It tries but doesn’t quite manage it yet I can smell burnt diesel. The engine hasn’t run in just under a year now as the rebuild has been more extensive than dreamt of to start with, but the fuel is fresh in today. The engine was running fine before the chassis swap, my first thoughts are: the tank was obviously drained when we did the swap perhaps their maybe an air lock in the system if so how do you bleed a 200tdi Or has anyone else had this after an “engine out” job?

I think its 63mm but I will check when I get home I have got similar one fitted. Cheers J

Thanks for all the help Ralph and others, It has been a long old job and its a bit like triggers broom now with so many new bits and adaptations. A friend has fabricated some items in stainless steel for the rebuild when I get chance I will post some pictures. What started two years ago as a few running repairs has developed into almost a ground up rebuild but its been fun and a steep learning curve "vertical more like" Thanks J

Ok, thanks for the replies. Parts now on order just one question I forgot to ask: do replacement headlights units come handed as they are unmarked i.e. left or right? Of course then comes the setup of the beams I searched and found a thread but the directions that had been scanned had cut the first few words from the start of each line. I will see if Google yields anything. Thanks for the help. Almost there I keep telling myself, almost nearly anyway!

Well today I managed to wire the ignition barrel of my 90 rebuild and the engine turned over when the key was turned and it would have fired if it had any fuel so that’s not too bad. Then I had a go at the wiring of the lights and indicators….. The headlights I thought were a bit ropey and would need replacing eventually as they are sealed beam units. When I had a good look the half bowls of the headlamps were rotten as pears . Does anyone know if the plastc bowls come with the fixings and beam adjustment screws as I had to cut the others off ? I have already got a set of halogen replacement units but no bowls or half bowls. The odd thing is the full bowls were quite good with just surface rust. ps pair of working sealed beams free to a good home.

Mine did the same and no matter how I tried the cowl kept creeping back to interefer with the fan. In the end I trimmed the cowl to just miss the fan.

Doh... I see it now. Thanks for the info. James

Hi All, I have just got the tailboard hinge kit I ordered for my 90 from fleabay and unwrapped them and they seem to be the both the same component for either side i.e both cranked one way is this right LR ref:LR016704? Cheers James

Thanks for the info. Fitted today just got to plumb n wire it in now Cheers James

Buy one from the man in the north on ebay (as seen on tv) I did and mine was rotten as a pear!!

Hi All, Firstly I have searched but just need some help. I am at the late reassembly stage of my 90 rebuild I decided to replace the viscous fan at this point and need some advice on a suitable live feed for the my Kenlowe fan as I bought it second hand and it didn’t have any instructions and was wondering what gauge and capacity wire would I need. The thermostatic switch didn’t work so I have replaced it with an X-fan as that seems to be the advice often given on this forum. I initially thought of taking up a live from the starter motor feed from the ignition to power the relay. I know the Kenlowe question has been asked many times but mostly about the fitting. Any advice or tips welcome. Cheers James

Dont they use a thick coat of primer or spray stopper stuff first and then spray over with body coat and lacquers in the factory finish. I have got pollyfillable cracks in my side panels and was suprised just how thick the primer coat was. You could always have it artexed

I thought waxoyle cured old rust and stopped new rust forming..well thats what it says on the tin but you cant believe everything you see.

I thought the intake was on the drivers side for a 300tdi I could be wrong though...it has been known

When you replace the cappings put all the rivets in one new section at a time in the holes but dont tighten them up until aligned. That way it saves having to drill them out because you cant fit the last rivet in because the section is misaligned. Their is a good tech thread on cappings on here.

A bloke near me parked his new freelander in waitrose carpark in witney went and did some shopping with his wife.Came back and some pikey had nicked his catcon!