Jimmy Two-Jacks

H, you could try Toolys boatyard but they are in the next county from you, but worth a try http://www.tooleysboatyard.co.uk/home.htm Cheers

Hi just thought I would post this as I need a pair of standard inertia belts for my 90 for the Mot and I know a lot of you have changed your standard seatbelts for harness type restraints so you might have some for sale... worth a post you never know. Cheers James

Cheers

Hi does anyone know the size of socket needed to undo the nut that secures the crank and the crank damper on a 200TDI? As we are changing the cam belt this weekend weather permitting . Cheers James

Hi, I am also in Oxfordshire and a couple of days ago found a copy of an off road magazine from last year. In it, it details quite a good stretch of green laning around Chilton not far from Didicot! If I can work out how to do it I will pm you a map image with it marked. Cheers James

A friend of mine did a personal protection driving course for his job and he told me one of the oldest tricks is that you pull up to a junction or other stop that's fairly quiet and bang you get rear ended!At this point most people get out of the vehicle to see whats happened and see what the hell the other driver was doing....big mistake that's when the assault and theft of the vehicle takes place...stay in the vehicle and if possible always keep the bottom of the wheels of the car in front visible as you pull up behind them as that's a good rule of thumb for being able to pull out without ramming the car in front ,if the idiots jump out of their vehicle behind you. And most of all don't make eye contact if you can help it. All this is fine if you can remember and you are not panicking as I and no doubt many others would be! He also said "Better to be judged by twelve rather than carried by six"!

Cheers all. James

After a very fed up spell I feel a bit more chirpy now as we have got some vissible stuff done.Well the cross members done and footwells are in and outriggers are on and chassis is plated up. just the corrosions behind seats near seatbelt housings to do and a few other jobs including the dreaded cam belt and the mysterious special tool required for the 200tdi!!!!!! It will feel much better to be in it rather than under it for a change.

Thanks All for the pointers

Thanks Tony, Thought of that and if I can drill the fixing bolts out of the top hinge as both of the pillar side bolts are rusted in solid I will be trying it before cutting the rigger off. I will let you know how we get on. Cheers James

Oh dear these are after outrigger fitting.Hinge pin ok, Ralph do you know if their is a Tech archive article on bulkhead outrigger replacement? Will try pulling bulkhead out and if no good re-think outrigger situation. Thanks for all the help. James

Hi Ralph, Well the problem is the door seems to have dropped even though the bolts that hold the top hinge to the pillar are seized solid and even after I heated them to cherry red with gas torch they will not move (drill out perhaps) I have posted some images to show the level of drop on the door to see if you still think its possible to compensate with all the factors you mentioned thats if I can get the pillar hinge bolts undone. Thanks for the help Ralph By the way the scorched appearance of the hinge is due to the gas torch not an attempt to flame the vehicle.... Cheers James

Thanks Ralph will do. Best wishes James

A bit like this?

Sorry, I know all I seem to do on this site is ask questions that may irritate the more spanner and sprocket minded among you but I am at the point of torching the bloody 90 on my drive or whipping it like Basil Faulty did with his old car in Faulty Towers. The story so far got 90 van with 200tdi chassis was rotten in places. Plated over chassis holes all was well, rear cross member was rotten, ordered new one from nice people at Bearmach. Bulkhead was rotten got new (almost) from nice chap in Gloucester. Replaced bulkhead outriggers yesterday and now the bloody door doesn’t fit/close, I know this isn’t the end of the world and this is to be expected but "camel and straw" spring to mind. I have tried finding the tech archive that details the fitting of B/head outriggers but can’t find it. My worst fear is that I will have to cut the new outriggers off "oh joy” and buy some more and start again tried packing out the bolts but it wasn’t having it. Has anyone had this happen to them and how did they sort it out with or without Accelerant and matches. As always I am very very very grateful of any serious advice/suggestions. Desperate of Witney James

Nice sunny day today.....got both new outriggers welded and bolted in position...Looks good. Drivers door has always been a git to close until now but the other door will not shut at all it fitted during alignment! Is there anyway I can compensate with the hinges as the outriggers are welded solid and will not come off if that is the problem ? Got a Bearmach rear crossmember the other day and I have to say the service was fantastic they didnt even charge me for delivery as they said they were going to be out my way anyway!!!! So in future any parts I get are coming from Bearmach...Well done. The crossmember was good to . Cheers All James

Hi, Does anyone know of an Oxfordshire Landrover owners club?

Thanks to everyone for the help. Hi Ralph, Well we welded some large patches of 2.5mm steel over the rot on the chassis today but now the drivers door wouldnt close but I have adjusted the keeper and taken out three shims and now it fits better than it did when I bought it! I guess the reason the doors are binding is the fact that I have cut the old out riggers almost through on one side and off completely on the other ready for the replacements. We have also found the rear crossmember to be shot and we are debating wether to replace it with one with leg extensions or just a crossmember and patch the rotten bits of rear chassis. I think I will choose the one with extensions as this does away with the bits of rot on the tail end in one hit. On that note do you or anyone else know of the best supplier of that type of crossmember?. By the way we have pulled the rear loom from the chassis and are going to route it through conduit in the body out of wet and harms way. I will keep you updated as we go on. Cheers James

Thanks Ralph All the best James

Hi, Does anyone know if a bulkhead formerly fitted to a 300TDI will fit my 1986 90 with later 200TDI engine without too much adaptation? Thanks for any help James

Many Thanks I have decided to try to get a chassis with log book and all the paperwork needed rather than risk the dreaded "Q" PLATE and all that entails. But thanks for the link that told me all I need to know as the chassis would have made my 90 a “Q” and I could do without the further problems that would bring I used to say anything for an easy life and then I got the Landrover bug Cheers James

Does anyone know if you change a chassis and the replacement chassis has no documentation does this make the vehicle that has had the replcement chassis fitted a "Q" PLATE? Cheers James

Hi, Try these people a friend swears by the stuff..Never tried it myself but looks good stuff.http://www.plastidip.co.uk/index2.cfm?page=products&prodId=1 Cheers

Got one and would only use it outside in windy conditions for non critical stuff, spits like mad even when using on clean metal. Save your money......

Dont laugh but Aldi do some very good 115mm stainless discs very fast cutting and thin.They are about £5 ish for 10 if I remember rightly. They dont last long but cut very fast and clean