Jimmy Two-Jacks

Thanks for the replies I take the point that thick plate would be overkill on a chassis that is much thinner material and thinking about it if I used thick stuff about 5mm I would probably end up blowing holes in the thinner chassis walls whilst trying to fuse the heavier plate patches. It’s easy to panic when you come across holes like that but always reassuring to hear that sort of corrosion is standard :blush: . Just one more thing would it be better to remove the wiring that runs inside the chassis and re fit it later or just try to shield it from the heat build up from the weld area? Thanks James

Thanks for the reply I have checked the rest of the chassis and its not too bad but If I weld some good thick plates in with lots of overlap it should be ok shouldnt it?

Panic has now set in……. Please can anyone make tell me that this chassis isn’t that bad as this was what I found when I cut the old floor and outrigger off to replace them….Also I asked last night if anyone knew if the tubular outrigger was prone to rot around the alloy but not on the bracket that’s still sound does this look like an MOT failure issue. I know the chassis and outrigger and footwells are mot issues but I have got those underway and will be able to weld repairs but I don’t have a clue how to go about a repair to the alloy surround of the tubular outrigger. Someone replied last night and told me that the tubular outrigger had to be 100% but I don’t know if that was the anchorage to the seatbelt or all of it alloy panel as well. Has anyone had this go wrong with theirs and if so what did you do .and dont say scrap it please! Please help if you can. A very concerned James of Oxford :( PS found some great reciprocating saw blades as used fire fire and rescue they cut anything and quick just the job for cutting outriggers and old footwells out. see images

My 200tdi does about 0 -0 in 3 months as its on stands

OK thanks for all the help doing some more today and will try to get some more images without my daughters (age 18 months so yes to young to drive) inclusion, I will post them this evening. I am always pleased when people take the time to offer advice to others who are really just strangers who share a common interest. As a novice with some times the help of a fabricator/welder I have to say that the help I get from the posts are a great help, much better than the"ideal world fantasy scenarios” referred to in the manuals where rust is uncommon and nuts come off first time and the former owners were time served mechanics who have lavished all care and attention on their vehicles! So thanks to everyone for the help. Cheers James

Well it depends how many satellite fixes you have some times you can get wildly varying results of location and speed if you only have connection to satellites over head rather than from the horizon as well that is why some units running OS based maps need about 6 fixes for true 1meter accuracy. If you use TOMTOM I don’t think there is any measure of accuracy to compare but with the more anorak (I own one so I can say that!) orientated gps units it gives you the current accuracy of location this must be the same for speed over land as that is how the gps works (I think) timed position and timed movement calculated form the atomic clocks onboard the satellite and compared to the signals from your handset . Cheers James

Hello All, Made the most of the better weather today and started on the stripping out of the floor on my 90 to replace the outriggers and also the foot wells. Whilst the sun shone we checked the rest of the chassis and found a few hole to prep for patching but I am getting used to landrover holes and managed not to despair too much however two areas do cause me some worry and they are the rear cross member and the rear tubular outrigger the rear cross member has some small holes in the outer face but the inner faces have some larger holes all of which are patchable but is this covered on an mot because I intend to replace the rear cross member later anyway but time is short until the due date of mot so I would rather patch and mend at this stage. The tubular outrigger is secured by a tie bracket which is sound but the alloy that is above the outrigger is corroded through and will need a repair pop riveted plate or tig weld, again is this a critical point for the MOT as the outrigger is fixed to the body by the tie bracket. By the way does the outrigger bolt have any form of rubber bush between the bulkhead and the outrigger on the bolt? I will post pictures as the bulkhead outriggers have to be amongst the worst seen by anyone they are just a skeletal framework the footwell seemed very thick and when we cut it out we could see why.. Someone had applied about three repair panels one after the other without removing the knackered metal! Thank god for the angle grinder and hammer. Thanks for any help anyone can give me. Cheers The images include my assistant/adviser James

Thanks for the info Cheers James

Cheers Ralph Knew you would know! Thanks James

Hi, I have been digging some stuff out of my shed and came across a snorkel top and tube (see images) I got it ages ago from a chap who messes about with tractors and agricultural engineering equipment and stuff like that. I was just wondering if anyone knew the minimum internal diameter for a snorkel for a 200tdi so that the engine wouldn’t be starved of air. This snorkel is 2”/50mm diameter and has sort of swirling fins on the underside of the cap and scoops on the top of the cap. The cap is 5”/130mm diameter at widest point. Cheers James

Mine must be small then!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok thanks "I hate to admit he was right though" Cheers James

Hi, My Brother in-law asked me in an email if I intended fitting 110 wheels to my 90 to give extra lift and better gearing!!!!!!!!! Well not to appear thick I didn’t mention the question in my reply just in case. Is their a difference in standard 90 and standard 110 wheels apart loading issues for the extra weight of the 110.Gearing well would that be affected by wheels? Apart from larger wheels covering more distance in one full rotation or is it as I suspect what he is telling me is male beef by product as ever?

Thanks Ralph All the best

Hi, Stripped my rear prop again today down to the needle bearings and cleaned and re-greased everything the only thing is I can’t seem to get the plastic dust collar to snap back over the female section of prop. Come to think if the collar fits over the rubber grease seal and that moves as the prop extends how on earth does the collar stay in place? Also does anyone know if when fitting a bulkhead repair panel do you cut back to the size of the repair panel or just weld it over the top (unlikely I know but just in case) And finally I have early defender lift up recessed lock mechanisms on my from doors but cant seem to find anywhere that sells three keyed alike replacement barrels I seem to get the usual pause and Gallic shrug or worse “just how old is this vehicle”. The interior handle is like the ones they used on the old Morris marina a black flap that pulls up at one end….. this is usually the second question asked. By the way I found the best tool for cleaning out the splines in the female prop shaft section is one of those stainless steel pan scourers the type that looks like metal ribbon after looking for a really long metal flue brush in vain I took to the shed with a stick and scourer just add lock wire and pull the scourer apart a bit and there you have a purpose built spline cleaner…. Heath-Robinson move over!!! Cheers james

Hi Try magnum boots owned by Hi-Tech used by speacial forces and and most police forces in the uk they come in a sand coloured version called the Magnum Elite Spider 8. Now the worst bit they are about £50-120 depending on what you choose also you could try "Grafters" as used in Iraq and other places by the British forces that get fed up with desert boots not being heat proof! Cheers James

I had this same problem and I posted for some help and got lots of support but I think that I had the pistons facing the wrong way so that the gradient went the wrong way and stopped the system working. Although I have to say that the pistons dont need to move much if you set it up right with the adjusting bolt on the back of the transfer brake drum. I found that when I had cleaned and greased the bits it was awkward to get it back together. I found a good thick elastic band held the expander and pistons in place whilst I replaced the shoes.I also had no resistance at the lever and found that my handbrake cable had streched a little and that didnt help. Best of luck

Thanks all

Thanks for the reply. I tried to pull it out today but it wouldn’t go but I will take it off and try it on the bench tomorrow with some gentle persuasion. Cheers James

Is it me? The owner of the largest paper weight in Oxfordshire seemingly (D reg 90 200TDI conversion) I removed my rear prop shaft about a month ago to sort out the transfer brake or lack of it and today’s milder weather prompted me to refit it and do a bit of work on the landrover whilst the sun sort of shone. Firstly I didn’t mark any alignment when I took off the shaft and now having read the instructions realise I should have marked it all up….. However it seems that the prop that was a very tight fit when removing it has shrunk by about 1cm during its time in my shed! Do the components of Landrover transcend the laws of physics and nature or more likely have I missed a trick? My wife told me today she has now joined the band of landrover widows.. Many thanks In advance Cheers James

• Make : Clarke • Model : MIG135TE • How Long have you had it / How old is it had it about a month from new • Typical Current Price : Circa £220 ish • Maximum Welding Current (AMPS) 130 : • Welding Wire range in mm : 0.6 - 0.8 • Small Large or BOTH re Wire Spools : BOTH • Euro Torch (Yes / No ) : NO • Hobby bottles or large Pub Co2 with fleabay step up regulatorWeight : heavyish • What is the most typical things you weld with it - thicknesses etc : mainly 2mm-4mm plates or tube.. no problems • Other standard Features : non live torch wire speed fine adjuster • Good Points : Well made small enough to be economical but big enough to cope with what I need as I have a stick welder for the thick stuff • Bad Points : Haven’t had it long enough to find any yet!! • On a scale of 1 to 10 1 being very unhappy with it, and 10 being "Its perfect for me" rate it : Had no problems yet, A dream after my gas-less mig10/10

How much did you have in mind? Cheers James

Hi anyone know were I can get some tub cappings and how much should the be for a 90 van? Just got some A4 stainless marine grade (316) outrigger to bulkhead bolts and matching nylocs may have some spare for sale let me know. Cheers James

Their are lots of weld on sections available for the defender and if you know of a tame welder perhaps you could get it well patched as long as its done right. The best thing to do is get some body who knows land rovers and doesn't want to either buy it from you or sell you a new chassis to have a look before you do anything I know how you feel though.

Thanks, I have got some M12 Stls Steel ones with nylocs that I had and never used for another job in the shed It would be good if they fitted. Cheers

Hi just about replace outriggers and footwell repair with friend who is an experienced mig/tig welder of some years on my 90. I have seen from a past forum that its best to get a new set of wing to bulkhead fixings and outrigger to bulkhead bolts just in case they have to be cut off. Also were can you get the wing to bulkhead fixings ? I feel a bit stupid as I called a well known supplier of all things landrover and asked if the sold the bolts for the outriggers after a short silence they asked why I had contacted them as the bolts are standard bolts not high tensile as I had foolishly thought……. Doh. Does anyone happen to know the spec of the nuts and bolts needed for the outrigger job. Also is that right that some of the wiring loom is housed in the chassis box section? Near the site of the outrigger junction with the chassis if so how on earth do you weld on new outriggers and not fry the loom???? I think I am going to weld some 2mm ears/tabs to the new outriggers to fix them on the chassis what does anyone think of the idea? Sorry I know questions questions questions all the time. Perhaps some day I might be able to offer advice “perhaps in a thousand years or so” Many thanks James